Seattle Now & Then: Spokane Street from West Seattle

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: In 1852 many of Seattle’s first pioneers removed from Alki Point by dugout canoe for the deeper and safer harbor along the east shore of Elliott Bay (our central waterfront).  About a half-century later any hope or expectation that the few survivors among these pioneers could readily visit Alki Beach and Point by land were fulfilled with the timber quays and bridges along Spokane Street. (Courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)
THEN: In 1852 many of Seattle’s first pioneers removed from Alki Point by dugout canoe for the deeper and safer harbor along the east shore of Elliott Bay (our central waterfront). About a half-century later any hope or expectation that the few survivors among these pioneers could readily visit Alki Beach and Point by land were fulfilled with the timber quays and bridges along Spokane Street. (Courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)
NOW: The undulations and elevations required to lift Spokane Street high above the waterways and railways are evident in the Jeanette Williams Memorial Bridge (aka West Seattle High Bridge), seen just left of its west end extension with the ascending Fauntleroy Expressway on the right.
NOW: The undulations and elevations required to lift Spokane Street high above the waterways and railways are evident in the Jeanette Williams Memorial Bridge (aka West Seattle High Bridge), barely seen just left of its west end extension with the ascending Fauntleroy Expressway on the right.

Across the tidelands of Youngs Cove, here at low tide, is Pigeon Point. From central Seattle Pigeon Point is a headland that often blends in with the greater mass of West Seattle and its pronounced Duwamish Head.  On the far right, looking over part of the Seattle Steel plant, is a glimpse into the Youngstown neighborhood.

The featured text for this look west to Pigeon Point and beyond it West Seattle is included in the bundle of features included under the first of the three links included following this feature text.
Here Pigeon Point and West Seattle have sorted themselves out with the aid of atmospheric perspective.  The point is the darker headland entering the subject from the left. The featured text for this look west to Pigeon Point and beyond it to West Seattle is included in the bundle of features grouped  under the first of the three links placed  following this week’s feature text.

Jogging through Youngstown, trolleys from Seattle first reached the west shore of Elliott Bay in 1907, the year of West Seattle’s annexation into the city. They came by way of a new swing bridge over the Duwamish River that was roughly in line with Spokane Street.  After swaying around Pigeon Point, the electric cars turned south into Youngstown.  From there the tracks turned north to Duwamish Head, reaching Luna Park on June 27th  in time for most of the summer play.  Built on pilings below the Head, Luna Park was the grandest of the many Alki Beach attractions that extended to Alki Point, which the trollies reached in 1908.

Spokane Street with Pigeon Point on the left.  The prospect looks west from near 26th S.W. on Oct. 4, 1920.
Spokane Street with the slight obstruction of Pigeon Point on the right. The prospect looks east from near 26th S.W. on Oct. 4, 1920.
A detail from the 1912 Baist Real Estate Map with Spokane Street at the top and the Youngstown neighborhood at the bottom and south of Andover Street.
A detail from the 1912 Baist Real Estate Map with Spokane Street at the top and the Youngstown neighborhood at the bottom and south of Andover Street.
Youngstown's "main street," West Andover, looking east to Pigeon Point.
With trolley track on the left, Youngstown’s “main street,” West Andover, looking east to Pigeon Point (with the Point out-of-frame to the left./north.) Courtesy, Lawton Gowey

By 1914 the circuitous route to Alki Beach previously running through Youngstown was straightened.  The Spokane Street trestle had been recently extended west across the head of Youngs Cove, reaching West Seattle here at Admiral Way.  Captioned at its lower left corner, the feature’s “top” subject’s long look east on Spokane Street was recorded on April 16, 1916.

A Seattle Times clip from April 30, 1916 reporting on  the neighborhood's activism for more trolley service.
A Seattle Times clip from April 30, 1916 reporting on the neighborhood’s activism for more trolley service.
Looking northeast from Avalon to the point where the early - in 1913 - Spokane Street trestle reaches West Seattle.  Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive
Looking northeast from Avalon to the point where the early – Oct. 23, 1913 – Spokane Street trestle reaches West Seattle. Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive

As evidence of Spokane Street’s development into a West Seattle funnel, city engineers counted the traffic using it between 5 am and midnight on one day in early November 1915.  The partial list recorded that two-hundred-and-ninety one street cars carried 11,699 persons, 692 passenger automobiles carried 1,501 persons, 203 jitneys (taxis) carried 744 persons, and 155 horse-drawn vehicles carried 187 persons across the West Seattle Bridge.

A Seattle Times report on the city's study of bridge traffic, Nov. 6, 1915.
A Seattle Times report on the city’s study of bridge traffic, Nov. 6, 1915.

In 1916, the year of the feature’s lead photograph, the West Seattle Commercial Club began the long campaign for a “high bridge” to West Seattle, with grades lifting the traffic above the railroad tracks.  In 1929 the trestle shown here was replaced and Spokane Street lifted with fill.  The concrete Fauntleroy Expressway, high-flying through Jean’s “now,” was added in the mid-1960s.  After another high bridge rebuff from city council, The Times for April 22, 1978, polled West Seattle citizens on secession.  A majority favored it.

A pull-page from The Seattle Times on Nov. 26, 1916.  Click it - perhaps more than once.
A pull-page from The Seattle Times on Nov. 26, 1916. Click it – perhaps more than once.

In 1929 the trestle shown here (again, with the featured photograph) was replaced and Spokane Street lifted with fill.

A detail of the neighborhood from the city's 1929 aerial survey.  The scan is used courtesy, again, of Ron Edge.
A detail of the neighborhood from the city’s 1929 aerial survey.  The “fattening” – but not the lifting – of Spokane Street as seen from high above.  The scan is used courtesy, again, of Ron Edge who scanned it all: the entire city in 1929, the first such aerial hereabouts.
With a glimpse of the steel mill on the far left, here Spokane Street is being reshaped a lifted above fill.  The view looks west on July 11, 1929.  (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
With a glimpse of the steel mill on the far left, here Spokane Street is being reshaped and lifted above fill. The view looks west on July 11, 1929. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)

 

A month earlier on June 6, 1929 looking east over the same Spokane Street approach to West Seattle (proper) with construction begins on new concrete ramps for the Avalon-Spokane-Harbor-Admiral nexus. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
A month earlier on June 6, 1929 looking east over the same Spokane Street approach to West Seattle (proper) with construction about to begin on new concrete ramps for the Avalon-Spokane-Harbor-Admiral nexus. Pigeon Point is on the right.  (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
At least from my print, the full date, bottom-left, for this look into the construction on the new interchange is cut off.  The view looks northeast.  (Courtesy, Lawton Gowey)
At least from my print, the full date, bottom-left, for this look into the construction on the new interchange is cut off. The view looks northeast. (Courtesy, Lawton Gowey)
Blue lines, upper-left, on this ca. 1931 Sandborn Real Estate Map, mark the construction site on the Spokane-Avalon-Harbor-Admiral interchange.
Blue lines, upper-left, on this ca. 1931 Sandborn Real Estate Map, mark the construction site on the Spokane-Avalon-Harbor-Admiral interchange.
The new and ornamented intersection looking east and asking to be compared to the featured photograph at the top.
The ornamented and almost completed  intersection looking east – asking to be compared to the featured photograph at the top.
Below the same ramps (as those one image above) on April 26, 1930.
Below the same ramps (as those one image above) on April 26, 1930.

The concrete Fauntleroy Expressway, high-flying through Jean’s “now,” was added in the mid-1960s.  After another high bridge rebuff from city council, The Times for April 22, 1978, polled West Seattle citizens on secession.  A majority favored it.

The
The Fauntleroy Expressway gaining altitude above our and Lawton Gowey’s – the photographer – intersection on May 10, 1`968

Less than two months later, Capt. Rolf Neslund began the rescue of these angry neighbors from their jams and closed bridges on Spokane Street when his gypsum ship Chavez rammed the West Seattle bascule bridge beyond repair.  The new high bridge – and heart’s desire – was dedicated on a windy November 10, 1983.

Well, in part.  Here we learn from Clay Eals, West Seattle champion and director of its Log House Museum and all that is connected with it, that we are half correct on the date of completion for the high bridge.  We quote Clay.

“On our website, you will notice that we are celebrating the 30th anniversary of the bridge this month and next.

But you may say that a 30th anniversary doesn’t square with the Nov. 10, 1983, date at the end of your column — and it doesn’t. That’s because the high bridge wasn’t fully opened on Nov. 10, 1983. Only the eastbound lanes were opened on that date. The westbound lanes were opened July 14, 1984, making the bridge fully open then, hence the 30th anniversary.

Might you be able to change the Nov. 10, 1983, date to July 14, 1984, if not on the Times page then on yours?

Here is a pertinent paragraph of info, taken from the web link above:

“The high bridge didn’t open all at once. Following the ramming of the low-level bridge by the freighter Chavez on June 11, 1978, construction on the bridge began in 1980. Eastbound lanes opened to the public on Nov. 10, 1983, and westbound lanes opened on July 14, 1984.”

Clay Eals, just before the unveiling of the West Seattle totem pole, in his natural setting
Clay Eals, just before the unveiling of the West Seattle totem pole, in his natural setting

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, Paul?   Surely Jean.  In the three features that Ron Edge has posted below with picture-links there is an array of past features that touch on subjects that themselves – most of them – touch on Spokane Street.   Here is a general list for what one who clicks the links will find within “Coming Home to Riverside” and the last of the three, “Luna Park Entrance.”   The second link is an Addendum to the first.

COMING HOME to RIVERSIDE

* A Riverside Family

* Six Bridges to Riverside (and West Seattle)

* Riverside Junction

* Spokane Street Trestle from Beacon Hill

* West Seattle Ferry at Colman Dock

* Fukii’s Bridge (to West Seattle)

* Elevated Railway on Marginal Way

* The “Shoe Fly” on the West Seattle Bridge

* Trolley Wreck on Spokane Street, Jan 8, 1937

* The Star Foundry, (on Spokane Street)

* Pigeon Point Fire Station No. 36

* Spokane Street Substation – 1926 (on Spokane Street)

* West Seattle High School (not on Spokane Street)

RIVERSIDE ADDENDUM

LUNA PARK ENTRANCE: Sept. 10, 2011

* Luna Park

* West Seattle Harbor

* How to Get to West Seattle

* West Seattle Ferry at Colman Dock

* Sea View Hall

* Halibuts Below Duwamish Head

* Novelty Mill

* Luna Park Below Duwamish Head

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 The THREE EDGE LINKS

1. Coming Home to Riverside

2. Riverside Addendum

3. Luna Park Entrance

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MORE FOSTER KLEISER BILLBOARD SURVEY EXAMPLES – with once exception for comparison.  All are on Spokane Street an all come with their own captions, which are coded-described in order to put the sign company’s billboards in their proper places for potential clients to imagine their own message.  In many of the original negatives for this collection, the billboards have been whited-out so that when the negatives are printed the prints appear without content, the better to imagine your own.

8.-FK-SPOKANE-ST.-(SL-200'-E-of-26th-P-1)[Lk-e-to-Pigeon-Point]-R-176--Nov.-31,-1936-WEB

Looking west on Spokane Street a few blocks east of the intersection with Avalon, Harbor and Admiral Way.  This is not from the billboard company's collection but is used courtesy of the Seattle Municipal Archive.
Looking west on Spokane Street a few blocks east of the 1929/30 work on the ramps into Spokane’s intersection with Avalon, Harbor and Admiral Way. Although well-stocked with ads, this  is not from the billboard company’s collection but is used courtesy of the Seattle Municipal Archive.

8.-FK-W-Spokane-St-&-Harbor-NW-1933-WEB

8.-FK-W.-Spokane-(&-Harbor-NW-P-1)-lk-w-3-19-37-WEB

8.-FK-W.-Spokane-St.-(approaching)-Harbor-Ave.--B-2619--Sept-13,-1940-WEB

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A SOLEMN CALL FROM THE RAMPS – 1937

7..*Spokane-st.-Trolley-wreck-THEN-WEB

7.-1937-spokane-st-wreck-text-WEB

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A TEST

The subject below looks west not on Spokane Street but on James.  That is Trinity Episcopal on the right at 8th Avenue.  I am cleaning up and clearing out old stuff and this is one of many hundreds of screened prints – prints exposed through a half-tone screen for off-set printing – I discovered on a bottom shelf in one of my archival cubbies.  It was probably printed in the early 1980s for possible inclusion in “Seattle Now and Then, Volume One.”  I am testing it here to determine if its like the other screen prints found might be recycled with some tweaked scanning.

Included here as a text to determine if a screened print (made of little black dots) might be scanned for on-line use without interference.
Included here as a text to determine if a screened print (made of little black dots) might be scanned for on-line use without interference.  Click it to see if it succeeds or flops. 

Fête de la Musique 2014

Lomont_191
Rue Descartes, at the pub Antidote, I could compare this musician’s voice to Paolo Nutini…

Rendez-vous for the 33rd edition of Fête de la Musique, celebrated on the 1st day of Spring. Paris is in full excitement since the morning, many visitors are coming, musicians and singers are settling in. Organized concerts are all free and everyone can improvise and know at least his 15 minutes of fame.  Usually very spontaneous, musicians play from 6PM and stop early because their repertoire has limits.  In the Latin Quarter, cafes invite musicians to play until 1am, after which people can throw water from their windows. This year was a good year, with sun and Pink Floyd played by most bands. Have a nice visit in 5th arrondissement…

Rendez-vous pour la 33 eme édition de la fête de la musique, célébrée le jour du Printemps. Les rues de Paris, où musiciens et chanteurs s’installent, sont en effervescence depuis le matin. Les concerts organisés sont tous gratuits, chacun peut improviser et connaitre au moins ses 15 minutes de célébrité. Généralement, les musiciens spontanés jouent à partir de 18 h et arrêtent assez tôt car leur répertoire a des limites. Dans le Quartier Latin les cafés invitent des musiciens qui jouent jusqu’à 1 heure du matin ; au-delà, les habitants peuvent jeter de l’eau par la fenêtre. Cette année était un bon cru, avec soleil et Pink Floyd qui était joué par la plupart des groupes.
Bonne visite dans le 5eme arrondissement…

Lomont_202
A young fanfare in the garden of Ecole Polytechnique
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Place du Panthéon
Lomont_267
Rue Soufflot, corner Boulevard Saint Michel
Lomont_300
Place de la Sorbonne, the band was playing the Cure and Pink Floyd
Lomont_335
Rue des Écoles, a post grunge band
Lomont_371
Rue Thoin, a very old band playing Bruce Springsteen, “in the dark “…

Seattle Now & Then: Kinnear Park

(click to enlarge photos) 

THEN: For his May Day, 1901 portrait of the Seattle City Council, the photographer, Anders Wilse, planted them, like additions to the landscape, on the lawn somewhere in the upper part of Kinnear Park. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)
THEN: For his May Day, 1900 portrait of the Seattle City Council, the photographer, Anders Wilse, planted them, like additions to the landscape, on the lawn somewhere in the upper part of Kinnear Park. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)

NOW: Sitting among the VIPs attending the recent April 26th “Grand Opening” of Lower Kinnear Park’s restoration is HBB Landscape Architect Aaron Luoma and his son Owen.  It was HBB that guided the design and work involved, including the paths, the 1947 tennis court, seen here, and the park’s new and popular Off-Leash Area for dogs.  Dean Koonts, also of HBB, notes that the two trees “posing” upper-right are both included in the list of Seattle’s “Exceptional Trees.” The closer one with silver bark is a Copper Beach, and behind it stands a European Hornbeam.
NOW: Sitting among the VIPs attending the recent April 26th “Grand Opening” of Lower Kinnear Park’s restoration is HBB Landscape Architect Aaron Luoma and his son Owen. It was HBB that guided the design and work involved, including the paths, the 1947 tennis court, seen here, and the park’s new and popular Off-Leash Area for dogs. Dean Koonts, also of HBB, notes that the two trees “posing” upper-right are both included in the list of Seattle’s “Exceptional Trees.” The closer one with silver bark is a Copper Beach, and behind it stands a European Hornbeam.  [ Marga Rose Hancock’s full list for Jean’s repeat reads,  “Front Row: Brian Yee (FOLKpark), Acting Superintendent of Parks Christopher Williams,  Deputy Mayor Andrea Riniker, Kay Knapton (FOLKpark), Deborah Frausto (FOLKpark), Jean Sundborg (Uptown Alliance), Karen O’Conner (Seattle Park staff), Ian Gerrard (with French horn), slamandir (trombone and no last name, no upper case letters) – Top Row:  Matt Mulder and doggie Sam (FOLKpark), Michael Herschensohn (Queen Anne Historical Society), Seattle Councilmember Jean Godden, Seattle Councilmember Sally Bagshow, Kim Baldwin (Seattle Parks staff), State Senator Jeane Kohl-Wells, Aaron Luoma and son Owen (HBB Landscape Architects), Christa Dumpys (Dept. of Neighborhoods), Laurie Ames (Dept. of Neighborhoods), Marga Rose Hancock.)
On Christmas Day 1894, a landslide dropped a 150-foot swath off the bluff between the lower and upper parts of Kinnear Park into Elliott Bay.  Seattle’s third park sits on the southwest brow of Queen Anne Hill.  From its northern border on West Olympic Place, it nearly plunges 250 feet in elevation to the waterfront.

KINNEAR-color-Gowey--w-interbay-cars--WEB

For the Seattle Park Board, the slide of ’94 was encore to a swan dive taken a year earlier by the city treasury with the economic Panic of 1893.  The board decreed that “the limited funds at disposal” be used only on the “upper portion of this park, which is upon the solid bluff.”   When Angie and George Kinnear gave the park to the city for one dollar in the fall of 1887, the beach, backed by ancient Douglas Firs, was already a poplar retreat for those who could reach it. Its open view to the Olympics was blocked earlier that summer of ‘87 by the Seattle Lake Shore and Eastern Railroad, the first of three off-shore trestles to run between the beach and the bay.

A crude copy of Parks Dept.'s engineer-historian Don Sherwood's map of Kinnear Park included in his magnus opus handwritten coverage of the history of all Seattle Parks. Note colored in red the "viewpoint" comfort station hand-colored in red on the map above and reflecting a sunset in Lawton Gowey's side below.
A crude copy of Parks Dept.’s engineer-historian Don Sherwood’s map of Kinnear Park included in his magnus opus handwritten coverage of the history of all Seattle Parks. Note the “viewpoint” comfort station hand-colored in red on the map above and reflecting a sunset  in Lawton Gowey’s side below.  The map, above, and also outlined in red, are the tennis courts in Lower Kinnear Park that are shown, in part, in Jean’s repeat.

Gowey--color-slide-of-upper-Kinnear-WEB

From the upper park the views across Puget Sound were transcendent, (still are) and it was there that the Seattle City Council relaxed on the afternoon of its May 1, 1900 “official inspection tour.” City Engineer Reginald Thomson, sitting here directly behind the councilman on the far left, led the May Day tour that was primarily of the reservoirs and standpipes being then completed for the anticipated delivery by gravity of cool and pure Cedar River water in abundance. For his “repeat” one hundred and fourteen years later, Jean Sherrard took the freshly restored but still steep path down the bluff to record the Park Department’s and FOLKpark’s Grand Opening of the restored park on Saturday, April 26, last.

We take a chance this is part of the original park department path that linked the lower and upper parts of Kinnear.  We remember reading "Kinnear Park" written on the original slide . . . we think.
We take a chance that this is part of the original park department path that linked the lower and upper parts of Kinnear. We remember reading “Kinnear Park” written on the original slide . . . we think.

FOLKpark stands for Friends of Lower Kinnear Park.  For this Sunday’s feature the most important member among them is Marga Rose Hancock.  A neighbor of the park, she first suggested this “now and then,” and then, out of respect to the dress code of the city council in 1900, pulled from her large collection of purple hats, covers for the heads of those posing now, including one of a FOLKpark member’s dog named Sam. Jean’s “now” is a sampler of both happy and concerned citizens.  It includes the department of park’s acting superintendent, the deputy mayor, several more members of FOLKpark, two council members, a Washington State senator, the director of the Queen Anne Historical Society, and a representative of the neighborhood’s Uptown Alliance.

Also posing are two members of the Ballard Sedentary Sousa Band, which played for the dedication ceremony.  Marga Rose is found, all in purple, behind the band’s trombonist named salamander.  It is a moniker that by request includes no caps or first name.

Kinnear Park Playground, June 1913.  (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
Kinnear Park Playground, June 1913. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
Five blocks east of the park, the Kinnear mansion kept its own surrounding park until replaced by the Bayview Manor.
Five blocks east of the park, the Kinnear mansion kept its own surrounding park until replaced by the Bayview Manor.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, Paul?   We hope to – Ron and I.  There are former features from this blog that have parts relevant to this southwest corner of Queen Anne Hill.   Included are the blog features titled “The Whilhelmina / Winona;”   “Smith Cover Glass Works,” published April 28, 2012; and “Testing Cedar River Water,” that appeared here on Jan 2, 2010.    And there are others, as you will find if you use the KEY WORD approach offered above, and type there either “Kinnear” or “Queen Anne.”  We sincerely hope to also put up actual links to some of these by the time the sun rises, illuminating the paper routes to your front doors.

THEN:Carolyn Marr, Museum of History and Industry librarian and Anders Wilse expert, answers the joking caption on Councilman Reinhard’s pant leg with another example. “Wilse had a wry sense of humor. In one photo he took during the Great Northern Railroad construction project, a group of 4 men sit around a table playing cards with revolvers and glasses of liquid. He wrote on the photo ‘A Merry Christmas.’”  (Courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)

The bust of R.H. Thomson looks down at the Headworks, which is the dam, for the city's gravity system.  It is still being constructed here.  The date is Nov. 14,1999 and A. Wilse was the photographer, as we was for many of the subjects included below.  His negative number for this is "48x".

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The Kinnear Park Mushroom with the southern head of Magnolia showing through the screen of park trees on the far west side of Smith Cove.  (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
The Kinnear Park Mushroom with the southern head of Magnolia showing through the screen of park trees on the far west side of Smith Cove. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)

THE KINNEAR PAR MUSHROOM AKA UMBRELLA

Seattle’s earliest parks from the 1880s and 1890s were rusticated with park benches shaped from unhewn tree limbs, trestles, pergolas and gates that one might imagine were handmade by forest nymphs.  Judging by the number of photographs that survive, one of the more popular examples was Kinnear Park’s romantic mushroom  – or umbrella or parachute.

Kinnear-Park-'Mushroom-WEB'

A “rustic parachute trellis seat” is what the Seattle Park Department’s annual report for 1892 calls it.  Also that  year a “rustic bluff barrier rail” was completed along the exposed edge of the upper level of Kinnear Park.    Thee improvements were made two year after the Kinnear family’s gift to the city was cleared of underbrush.  Beds of flowers and hrub were donated by neighbors and arranged by the park’s gardener.  In 1894 a “picturesque pavilion” wa added atop a knoll and connected to the park by “rustic bridge.”

Picturesque-Pavilion-hand-colored-Kinnear-Pk.-Web

The Seattle Park Department’s archival “Sherwood Files – named for Don Sherwood and searchable on the park department’s web page – do not reveal when the umbrella was removed.  Ultimately these rustic structures were too delicate – too organic — to survive the wear of admiring park visitors.  And on occasions this narrow strip along the southwest slope of Queen Anne Hill was quite busy.  For instance, the crowds attending the Tuesday evening concerts in the park during the summer of 1910 averaged more than 2,500.

This snow covered mushroom comes from a collection of glass negatives photographed by the Queen Anne Duffy family in the first years of the 20th Century.  Consequently, this is most likely not the Big Snow of 1916.
This snow covered mushroom comes from a collection of glass negatives photographed by the Queen Anne Duffy family in the first years of the 20th Century. Consequently, this is most likely not the Big Snow of 1916.

Through the summer of 1936, Kinnear Park was used for Sunday forums on such uplifting topics as “How Cooperatives Help Our City” and “Are We Getting Better or Worse?,” and six-minute talks on “Why I am a Republican, Democrat, Socialist, Communist, Prohibitionist.”  These assemblies concluded with community sing-alongs which, The Seattle Times reported, send the crowds home with their faces “wreathed in smiles.”

Another early-century snowscape in Kinnear Park.
Another early-century snowscape in Kinnear Park.
Most likely this is another slide by Queen Anne resident Lawton Gowey.
Most likely this look west from Kinnear Park and over Puget Sound is another slide by the helpful Queen Anne resident, Lawton Gowey.
Another photo opportunity for the council member and by A. Wilse on the first day of May, 1900.  (Courtesy Municipal Archive)
Another photo opportunity for the council member and by A. Wilse on the first day of May, 1900. (Courtesy Municipal Archive)

Seattle Now & Then: The Gatewood Lodge

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: The Gatewood Craftsman Lodge was built on a road, in a neighborhood, and near a public school all named for the developer Carlisle Gatewood, who also lived in the neighborhood.  The three women posing in the third floor’s open windows are the Clark sisters, Jean, Dorothy and Peggy, members of the family that moved into the home in the late 1930s.
THEN: The Gatewood Craftsman Lodge was built on a road, in a neighborhood, and near a public school all named for the developer Carlisle Gatewood, who also lived in the neighborhood. The three women posing in the third floor’s open windows are the Clark sisters, Jean, Dorothy and Peggy, members of the family that moved into the home in the late 1930s.
NOW: For his “repeat” Jean has posed replacements for the Clark Sisters in the top-floor open windows.  House researcher Bethany Green holds her dog Lily at the center, Margaret Hayes, the lodge’s present resident, now for thirty years, is on the right, and Margaret’s niece Sarah Barton is on the left.  Sarah also manages The Gatewood Bed and Breakfast. Margaret explains, “The only way to keep it is to let it sustain itself.”
NOW: For his “repeat” Jean has posed replacements for the Clark Sisters in the top-floor open windows. House researcher Bethany Green holds her dog Lily at the center, Margaret Hayes, the lodge’s present resident, now for thirty years, is on the right, and Margaret’s niece Sarah Barton is on the left. Sarah also manages The Gatewood Bed and Breakfast. Margaret explains, “The only way to keep it is to let it sustain itself.”

This grand three-floor West Seattle lodge-size home with a rustic porch and veranda looks west from about 350 above Puget Sound and six irregular blocks west of the highest point in Seattle.  (If you should wish to visit Seattle’s summit you will find it unmarked in the alley between 35th and 36th Avenues Southwest, south of the Water Dept. standpipes on Southwest Myrtle Street.  At about 522 feet high, the alley transcends Queen Anne Hill by more than fifty feet.)

The address here is 7446 Gatewood Road S.W., which runs at a slant through the hill’s otherwise generally compass-conforming grid of streets and avenues.  Most of these are crowded with homeowners who respect their neighbors open views of the Olympics by landscaping their lots low. Here, however, on Gatewood Road the Olympics are rarely seen, except in winter from the bedroom windows on the third floor. The home is nestled in the shade of one of the clinging greenbelts that interrupt the open sweep of the hill.  Only a bird’s call away, the Orchard Street Ravine climbs the hill. It is one of the verdant West Seattle watersheds protected as a Park.  By testimony of those who have lived here, the effect is like living in a park,

Surely a good sampling of the residences on this graceful western slope of West Seattle are homes with big families, but few of them also have eight bed rooms like this one had in 1910 when the English/Canadian couple, Francis John and Pontine Ellen Harper, built it for themselves, their five children, John, Frances, Macdonald, Cecil and Margaret, and more.  A different Margaret, Margaret Hayes, the present owner since 1987, was told that there were sixteen living in the big house in the beginning.

Five families in all lived and paid taxes here through what the Southwest Seattle Historical Society calls The Gatewood Craftsman Lodge’s 104-year history.  Representatives for all of them will be on hand next Sunday June 22 when the Society joins the present owner as interpreting hosts for another of the Society’s annual and enlightening home tours titled “If These Walls Could Talk.”  The point is, of course, that next Sunday they will be talking.  The public is invited to this fund-raiser.  (For details call the Log House Museum at 938-5293.)  We give special thanks to the “house history” done by Bethany Green and Brad Chrisman, whom Clay Eals, the Society’s director calls the “core of the home-tour committee this year.”   In Jean’s repeat, Bethany is holding her dog Lily in the third floor window.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, Paul?  A few this evening and perhaps a few more tomorrow.  First, again with the help of Ron Edge,  we will grace the below with some links of other West Seattle stories pulled from features of the past.   Then we will draw on some recent works of the Log House Museum and its energetic director and our by now nearly old friend, Clay Eals.  After all that I’ll put up a few more of the by now many features on West Seattle subjects that we have published in Pacific since we started in the winter of 1982.  There may be – again & again – some repeats.   This week we will spare our readers the music analogy for these repetitions and variations.  And Jean may your Hillside theatre dress rehearsal this Sunday afternoon and next weekend’s performances go well, this in your, well, what anniversary of starting these productions on Cougar Mountain?

THEN: Built in 1893, West Seattle School kept teaching until ruined by the region’s 1949 earthquake. (Courtesy Michael Maslan)

THEN: The Craftsman bungalow at 1910 47th Ave. S.W., shown in the 1920s with an unknown adult on the porch and two tykes below, is now 100 years old. The house beyond it at the southeast corner with Holgate Street was for many years clubhouse to the West Seattle Community Club, and so a favorite venue for discussing neighborhood politics and playing bridge. (COURTESY OF SOUTHWEST SEATTLE HISTORICAL SOCIETY)

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Towards the rear, Director Clay Eals with his red shirt and tie of many colors looks over the Totem Unveiling ceremony like the guardian angel he is.
Towards the rear, Director Clay Eals with his red shirt and tie of many colors looks over the Totem Unveiling ceremony like the guardian angel he is.

The LINKS  that follow come from the Southwest Seattle Historical Society, greater Seattle’s most vibrant of neighborhood-based heritage groups.  HERE FOLLOWS with Links a letter we received from Clay Eals its directory this afternoon.

Dear Jean and Paul

Tomorrow’s “Now and Then” is stellar. Saw the printed bulldog edition. Thanks again. The event is not tomorrow but rather the following Sunday, June 22, and it will be helped immensely by your contribution.

[Oops! We gave the wrong address.] Don’t worry about the address. It’s only two digits off (should be 7446, not 7448), but there is no home even close to 7448. The closest one is 7228. So there will be no real confusion.

For your blog, you might want to add these links:

http://www.loghousemuseum.info/events/home-tour-2014/

http://www.loghousemuseum.info/blog/its-still-a-home/

If you want to add stuff about the totem, then here are links to most of what you Jean sent me:

http://www.loghousemuseum.info/ (the five-part series)
http://www.loghousemuseum.info/blog/reaching-the-sky-our-admiral-totem-pole-is-unveiled/ (the big group photo, plus some cool video, including an entertaining time-lapse)

Out the door. Thanks again!

Clay

Jean's cherry-picker overview of the thousand-plus celebrants at the totem's unveiling.
Jean’s cherry-picker overview of the thousand-plus celebrants at the totem’s unveiling.

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Seattle Now & Then: The Lake Union Dam Washout

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: From the Fremont Bridge, this subject looks northwest across the torrent that followed the washout of the Fremont Dam in the early afternoon of March 13, 1914.  Part of the Bryant Lumber and Shingle Mill appears left-of-center.  The north end of the Stone Way Trestle appears in the upper right corner. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)
THEN: From the Fremont Bridge, this subject looks east northeast* across the torrent that followed the washout of the Fremont Dam in the early afternoon of March 13, 1914. Part of the Bryant Lumber and Shingle Mill appears left-of-center. The north end of the Stone Way Trestle appears in the upper right corner. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)
NOW: In the mid-1950s the former Bryant Mill site was converted into an industrial center, but it took until the 1990s for the site’s extensive architectural make-over to begin. On the Wallingford horizon many of the surviving homes predate the 1914 washout.
NOW: In the mid-1950s the former Bryant Mill site was converted into an industrial center, but it took until the 1990s for the site’s extensive architectural make-over to begin. On the Wallingford horizon many of the surviving homes predate the 1914 washout.
The Stone Way Bridge from the Westlake Ave. and Queen Anne side.  Across the bridge, above the center of the subject, the large box factory of Western Cooperage stands out.
The Stone Way Bridge from the Westlake Ave. and Queen Anne side. Across the bridge, above the center of the subject, the large box factory of Western Cooperage stands out.
South from 34th Street into the
South from 34th Street on December 27, 1997 into construction for the new tenants of the old Bryant Lumber Mill site east of the Fremont Bridge

Two sensational news photographs appear on the front page of the Friday, March 13, 1914, issue of The Seattle Times.  One is of the historic and deadly Missouri Athletic Club fire in St. Louis.  The other from Portland, Oregon, shows a “flame-wrapped” steam schooner drifting along the docks on the Willamette River “starting a new blaze at every place she bumped.”  Also sensational, standing above it all, the day’s headline reads FREMONT BRIDGE DESTROYED: Flood Threatened By Breaking Of Lake Union Dam.

Front page - top half - of The Seattle Times March 13, 1914 issue.
Front page – top half – of The Seattle Times March 13, 1914 issue.

[CLICK to ENLARGE]

The Seattle Times next day - March 14. 1914 - report.
The Seattle Times next day – March 14. 1914 – report.

Soon after the Fremont dam, constructed to control the level of Lake Union, broke in the early afternoon, the bridge did too. It was a little late for The Times to get a picture in that day’s evening addition. However, over the weekend, The Times featured several pictures of the flood, including one that was very similar to the historical photo used here.  Both photographers stood precariously close to the open center section of the Fremont Bridge that was swept away towards Ballard about two hours after the dam’s collapse.  The Times 1914 photo was taken later than this one, for in the newspaper’s illustration the water level is lower and the dam’s surviving wing gate pilings, also seen here, stand out more.  Employed by the city’s public works department, “our” photographer took several shots of the washout and its unsettling effects.

FREMONT BRIDGE, looking northwest.
FREMONT BRIDGE:  above, looking northwest. [Courtesy, Municipal Archive], below, looking east.
1. RJ fremont broken bridge 1914

During its nearly day-long outpouring, Lake Union dropped about nine feet.  Beside the bridge, at the lake’s north end the worst damage was to the railroad trestle along the north shore. At the south end of the lake the greatest casualty was the big new dock built by the then thirty-year-old Brace and Hergert lumber mill. Stacked with lumber, the exposed pilings supporting the dock gave way early Saturday morning.  Nearby, on the lake’s east shore, those among the “houseboat colonists” who had dared to keep to their floating homes were awakened by the crash.  By noon the houseboats tied to the shore were resting on the lake’s bottom at an angle that was good only for reading in bed.  Also by noon on Saturday it was clear that Ballard would not be washed away.

[Courtesy, MOHAI]
[Courtesy, MOHAI]

Fortunately for the several trolley lines that served Fremont, Wallingford, and Green Lake, as well as the interurban to Everett, the long temporary trestle crossing from Westlake to Stone Way, seen here in part on the right, did not collapse.  Traffic that normally crossed at Fremont was redirected there by Carl Signor, an alert neighbor with a hay, grain and flour store located near the south end of the Fremont Bridge.  The bridge collapsed soon after Signor’s timely signal.

WEB EXTRAS

Much to add this week, Paul?   Indeed, Jean and starting with an Edge-link to an opening day subject for the Fremont Bascule Bridge, followed by another beginning with the odd story of a crashed trolley in Fremont.  And following these pulls by Ron Edge, we will string out a variety of photos of the Fremont Bridge thru time and from different prospects, beginning with a few from Queen Anne Hill.  This chain will also  feature a few construction shots of the bascule bridge, which is, of course, the one we still cross.  We hope to be able to date them all – or nearly.

17web

THEN: The rear end of the derailed trolley on N. 35th Street appears right-of-center a few feet east of Albion Place N. and the curved track from which the unrestrained car jumped on the morning of August 21, 1903. (Courtesy, Fremont Historical Society)

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I have pulled this from SEATTLE  NOW  & THEN VOL. 1, which was first published in 1984 and then reprinted about three times.   I lived off it.  Hopefully the text is accurate.   On rereading old features I have found a few bloopers, I confess.  Usually mistakes of directions.  Still, question authority.  This appeared first in the Feb. 12, 1984 issue of Pacific Magazine.

[CLICK to Enlarge and make it readable – we hope.]

x-Fremont-dam-fm-Fremond-Bridge-1984-Feb.-12-Pacific-WEB

X-1984-Feb.-12-Pacific-Mag-Fremont-Dam-p2

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The FREMONT BRIDGE from QUEEN ANNE HILL

Probably the earliest extant panorama of Fremont from any prospect - circa 1891. The early low bridge is hard to make out in the emitting atmosphere of mill.
Probably the earliest extant panorama of Fremont from any prospect – circa 1891. The early low bridge is hard to make out through the  atmosphere of the mill.
The still "low bridge" in 1903, looking north again from Queen Anne.  A feature for this subject is included as the 58th "story" in Seattle Now and Then Volume Two.
The still “low bridge” in 1903, looking north again from Queen Anne. A feature for this subject is included as the 58th “story” in Seattle Now and Then Volume Two.
An Oakes "real photo" postcard from Ca. 1907.  Phinney Ridge is on the horizon.
An Oakes “real photo” postcard of what is still the “low bridge,” from Ca. 1907. Phinney Ridge is on the horizon with the forest of Woodland Park on the right.
Construction of the new "high bridge" in 1911.  Directly below is a detail showing the work-in-progress, on this lifting of the grade, at 34th and Fremont.
Construction of the new “high bridge” in 1911. Directly below is a detail showing the work-in-progress on this lifting of the grade, at 34th and Fremont.

2.-1911-detail-n.-end-of-bridge-34th-and-Fremont-WEB

Looking north into the same wide-body construction on the Fremont Bridge and dated June 21, 1911 (Courtesy, Municipal Archives)
Looking north into the same wide-body construction on the Fremont Bridge and dated June 21, 1911.  This is somewhat earlier than the subject above it, which shows that the bridge has been considerably widened on its east side while  here the “east lane” is still at the original elevation, on the right. (Courtesy, Municipal Archives)

2b  1911 FREMONT-HIGH-BIRDGE-now-web

The clip from Pacific on Nov. 28, 2004.
The clip from Pacific on Nov. 28, 2004. [Click to Enlarge]
Date March 18, 1915, this is the last of the old and short-lived high bridge.  Work on its bascule replacement ran from 1915 until it opening in 1917.
Date March 18, 1915, this is the last of the old and short-lived high bridge.  The disrupting work on its bascule replacement ran from 1915 until its opening in 1917.

The upheaval of early construction, again looking from the Queen Anne end, dated May 10, 1915.
The upheaval of early construction, again looking from the Queen Anne end, dated May 10, 1915.  [Courtesy, Municipal Archive]
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xa-1916 Fremont-Brdg-ConstructionTHEN-WEB

xa-June-22,-2003-Pacific,--Fremont-Bridge-early-bascule-work-lk-W.-WEB.-

Early Army Corps work on the canal, looking east to the low bridge, ca. 1903.
Early Army Corps work on the canal, looking east to the low bridge, ca. 1903.
Improvement on the Fremont Dam ca. 1903, looking east to the "Wallingford Peninsula" where the gas works were implanted in 1907.  Note the view of the dam directly below from 1907.  The gas works can be found along the north shore of Lake Union.  [Courtesy, Army Corps]
Improvement on the Fremont Dam ca. 1903, looking east to the “Wallingford Peninsula” where the gas works were implanted four years later in 1907. Note also the view of the dam directly below from 1907. There the gas works can be found along the north shore of Lake Union. [Courtesy, Army Corps]
The Fremont Bridge looking east from the "low bridge" circa, 1907.
The Fremont Bridge looking east from the “low bridge” circa, 1907.   Western Cooperage is on the far left, but the temporary Stone Way Bridge is still four years ahead.
A trolley car either heading for Fremont or leaving it crosses the "low bridge" as seen from the lower bridge that crossed the channel above the Fremont Dam.  Ca. 1907.
A trolley car heading for Fremont,  crosses the “low bridge” as seen from the lower bridge that crossed the channel above the here bubbling Fremont Dam. Ca. 1907.

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March 3, 1915, from the Fremont side looking southeast to the "high bridge" repaired after the 1914 collapse, but here soon to be razed for construction of the bascule replacement.
March 3, 1915, from the Fremont side looking southeast to the “high bridge” repaired after the 1914 collapse, but here soon to be razed for construction of the bascule replacement.
The Fremont spillway constructed with the 1914 repair of the collapse timber high bridge.  Dec. 11, 1914
The Fremont spillway constructed with the 1914 repair of the collapsed timber high bridge. Dec. 11, 1914   Below is the “now” of this pair that first appeared in Pacific on July 7, 2006.

xx- 1914  FREMONT-SPILLWAY-NOW-WEB

xx-7-16-2006-Fremont-Dam,--Spillway-lk-eWEB

A record of the spillway from the Queen Anne side, with lines drawn indicating the expected level of the canal once the locks are closed and the canal is flooded.  [Courtesy, Army Corps]
A record of the spillway (not spilling)  from the Queen Anne side, with lines drawn indicating the expected level of the canal once the locks are closed and the canal is flooded.  Again, that is the old pre-bascule short-lived high bridge beyond. [Courtesy, Army Corps]
Looking southeast through the open wings of the brand new Fremont Bascule Bridge.
Looking southeast through the open wings of the brand new but not yet opened to traffic  Fremont Bascule Bridge.

January 10, 1917 [Courtesy, Army Corps]
January 10, 1917.  This look was photographed some few days before the one above.  [Courtesy, Army Corps]
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Early work on the north pier being prepared for concrete,  March 23, 1916.
Early work on the north pier being prepared for concrete, March 23, 1916.
Some of the hardened results on the north pier, April 8, 1916.
Some of the hardened results on the north pier, April 8, 1916.
An "aerial" panorama (perhaps shot from the tower showing above the south pier in the photograph two above this one) looking west down the canal on May 4, 1916.
An “aerial” panorama (perhaps shot from the tower showing above the south pier in the photograph two above this one) looking west down the canal to a Ballardian sky  of mill smoke and airborne lefse particulates on May 4, 1916.
Here the daring photographer has turned around, again on May 4, 1916, to look west over the Stone Way Bridge and the smoking Gas Works to a Capitol Hill horizon.  Note the generations of Westlake (25 years worth) both hugging the shore and taking it on the right.  Dexter descends to the bridge, far right.
Here the daring photographer has turned around (again on May 4, 1916) to look west over the Stone Way Bridge and the smoking Gas Works to a Capitol Hill horizon. Note the generations of Westlake (25 years worth) off-shore,  hugging the shore and taking it on the right. Dexter descends to the bridge, far right.
Work on the north pier, July 7, 1916.
Work on the south pier, July 7, 1916.   The Bryant mill is on the left and the Stone Way Bridge on the right.
The South Pier from the north end on Aug. 17, 1916.
The South Pier from the north end on Aug. 17, 1916.

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“THE BUSIEST BASCULE IN THE U.S.A.”

Until the Aurora Bridge was completed in 1932, the bascule at Fremont was busy enough to be considered the busiest bridge of its kind in the U.S.A..  With the University Bridge it was one of the two primary funnels into the north city.
Until the Aurora Bridge was completed in 1932, the bascule at Fremont was busy enough to be considered the busiest bridge of its kind in the U.S.A.. With the University Bridge, it was one of the two primary funnels into the north city and beyond.   Here the “outbound traffic through Fremont” in the late afternoon of June 27, 1923, for the most part avoids the center of the street and the tracks for the several trolley lines – including the Seattle-Everett Interurban – that then used them.  In the mere fifteen years between the opening of the bascule and that of the flyover Aurora Bridge, Fremont prospered as a mill town and roadside attraction.
The congestion on August 15, 1923.
The congestion on August 15, 1923.
. . .  and sometime in 1924 (if memory service) when the serious talk about building a high bridge was elevating from warm to hot.
. . . and sometime in 1924 (if memory serves) when the serious talk about building a high bridge was itself arising from warm to hot, photographs like this were produced as evidence for the state legislature. [Courtesy, Municipal Archives]
The Aurora Bridge under construction
The Aurora Bridge under construction seen from the Fremont Bridge.
Thin traffic on the Fremont Bridge, looking north into Fremont,
Thin traffic on the Fremont Bridge, looking north into Fremont, April 18, 1939.   Within two years the trolley rails will be removed.

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FREMONT HISTORICAL SOCIETY

If you find Fremont history alluring, as do I, you may want to join the Fremont Historical Society.   I took this portrait of its first members at its first meeting in the summer of 2004.   They are, left to right: Julie Pheasant-Albright, Audrey LIvermore, Roger Wheeler, Paul Fellows, Helen Divjak, Heather McAuliffe, and Carol Tobin.  The second picture below it was taken within a year (or so) at another FHS meeting, that in the Fremont Library.   At the bottom, the front page for the FHS web is added to help with your perhaps first search into Fremont history: finding and contacting the society.

zzzzFremont Heritage CoreLR

z,-Fremont-Hist-Soc-1st-Public-Meeting-Library-WEBxxxxxxx-Fremont-Historical-Society-web-page-WEB

UNDER THE BRIDGE, JUNE 15, 1917 QUIZ.    Which  end?

6.-June-15,-1917-Fremont-brdg-const-rr-soside-lkw-WEB

* CORRECTION:  The caption to the topmost photo – the primary one for the feature – incorrectly described it as looking northwest.  Actually, it looks northeast or to make a finer point of it, east-northeast.  Although I knew the correct direction I wrote it wrong and the regrettable truth is that I am too often using left for right and north for south and so on and on.  It might be that in this week’s blog, through its many pictures with directions,  I have done this stupidly more than once.  My editor at the Times has complained to me more than once about this.  However,  one direction I always get correct is up and down, and for that exception I am proud.  When readers correct my either dyslexic or careless/spaced-out mistakes they sometimes do it with such cosmological concern that it would seem for them that the world would sit askew until my  directional malaise is twisted back to health.   And now once more, and something like Atlas, I have leveraged the world back it its original pose with the north pole pointing to heaven and Wallingford, where I live, northeast of Fremont and much else.