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Seattle Now & Then: Smith Tower turns 110

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN1: Climbing to the roof of the nearby Masin Building (1902), photographer Earl Depue recorded this north-facing portrait of a nearly completed Smith Tower in spring 1914. Local wits occasionally called its conical top “a dunce cap.” (PHOTO BY EARL DEPUE, COURTESY RON EDGE)
NOW: On Second Avenue South, this view is captured with the aid of a 20-foot extension pole. Smith Tower remained the tallest building in Seattle until eclipsed by the Space Needle in 1962. Today’s Seattle City Hall at Fourth and James is only a stone’s throw from the tower. (Jean Sherrard)

Published in The Seattle Times on-line on July 25, 2024
and in Pacific NW Magazine of the printed Times on July 28, 2024

We still can get ‘stretchitis’ from beholding the tippy-top of the 1914 Smith Tower

By Jean Sherrard

Oh, to have been a fly on that wall in 1909 when firearm and typewriter magnate Lyman Cornelius Smith of Syracuse, N.Y., proposed building a 14-story skyscraper in Seattle. His son Burns, 29, must have nodded patiently before dropping an inspired bombshell.

THEN: A portrait of gun and typewriter magnate Lyman C. Smith, whose canny 1890 Seattle realty purchase, including the future Smith Tower site, was one of the largest of its time. (Paul Dorpat collection)

“Let’s supersize it,” urged the younger Smith (here, of course, we paraphrase). What better promotion for a maker of office machines, he reportedly said, than a record-breaking office building? Rivaling Manhattan’s Singer, Metropolitan and Woolworth buildings — then the world’s tallest — would be front-page news nationwide.

What’s more, Burns reminded his father that speculator John Hoge already had begun planning his own 18-story high-rise. A significantly taller Smith column might thumb its nose at Hoge’s lesser stack for years to come. Fiercely competitive, Lyman Smith gave a hearty thumbs up.

From the get-go, the Smiths applied their powers of persuasion, Lyman dazzling the Seattle City Council with grand visions. The council formally resolved that city government buildings would remain within a four-block radius of the Smith property, clinching its central location and future relevance. A supportive Mayor Hiram Gill made sure that building permits were quickly granted.

A Syracuse architectural firm, Gaggins and Gaggins, completed plans for the $1.5 million steel and concrete edifice — a 21-floor base topped by a 14-floor tower and pyramidal cone that contained, claimed its builders, seven additional (if improbable) floors, for a fish-tale total of 42 stories.

The lower floors of the Smith building, festooned with promotional banners.

On Nov. 5, 1910, before construction began, the 60-year-old elder Smith died unexpectedly after a short illness. A Seattle Times obituary lauded his “quick insight into the heart of things” and investment of a third of his fortune in “the future possibilities and present desirability of this city.”

THEN: Here’s an alarming detail from our main “Then” photo. “Cowboys of the air” fearlessly traverse the surface of the Smith Tower’s cone without visible safety harnesses. Remarkably, no deaths and few injuries were reported during construction. (Courtesy Ron Edge)

His structure climbed to the sky. Crowds of admiring Seattleites (dubbed “sidewalk superintendents”) gaped upward, marveling at “cowboys of the air” who attached glazed terra-cotta panels. A local doctor warned that neck injuries might increase. Wags competed to name potential ailments. Top contenders: “crickitus,” “stretchitis” and “rubberosis.”

Come dedication day, July 4, 1914, Burns Smith welcomed thousands to his “cloud cleaver,” at 522 feet, the tallest in the West. The “gleaming white pile,” said the Times, represented “the confidence … which typifies Seattle spirit and growth.”

Another zoom in on fearless workers high above 2nd Avenue (Courtesy Ron Edge)

At its crest, an 8-foot-wide globe of glass and bronze “flashed the hour and quarter hour in red, white and blue.” Mariners approaching across Puget Sound proclaimed the newly minted icon “a beacon to the world.”

Although it’s dwarfed today by modern giants, can anyone say that the Smith Tower, having just marked its 110th anniversary, has lost any of its opening luster?

WEB EXTRAS

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