THEN1: Backed by a “wall of sound,” singer-guitarists Jerry Garcia (left) and Bob Weir with the rest of the Grateful Dead perform May 25, 1974, at Campus Stadium of the University of California, Santa Barbara. (Steve Schneider)NOW1: Bathed in colors and a “gorge-ous” backdrop, The Dead & Company performs July 7 at The Gorge Amphitheatre. At center is longtime band member Bob Weir. (Steve Schneider)
Published in The Seattle Times online on Aug. 10, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on Aug. 13, 2023
Photographer grateful his images can ‘hit the moment in time’
By Clay Eals
You grow up an ordinary guy on the outskirts of Los Angeles. You’re not great at academics, but in the late 1960s you pick up a camera and shoot for the high-school newspaper and yearbook. Later, you work at McDonalds and a Ford plant. You deliver sailboats around the country. In 1979, you move north, bouncing from Granite Falls to Green Lake to the Alaska town of Valdez and, finally, to Shoreline.
NOW2: Photographer Steve Schneider at West Seattle’s Husky Deli. (Clay Eals)
All the while, you immerse yourself in enormous concerts by the biggest names in rock, blues, country and folk, your camera a constant companion. Over more than 50 years, you amass a rare archive.
You’re Steve Schneider, whose musically panoramic imagery fills “The First Three Songs: Rock & Roll at 125th of a Second,” a 220-page coffee-table compendium whose title alludes to the brief time at the opening of shows when promoters typically let photojournalists work up close. The tome bolsters Schneider’s uncomplicated mantra: “It’s always been about excitement, about fun. I just want to get the shot.”
NOW3: The cover of Steve Schneider’s book “The First Three Songs.” A book-signing is set 6-8 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 17, at Easy Street Records in West Seattle. More info: SteveSchneiderPhoto.net. (Courtesy Steve Schneider)
The 71-year-old has earned day-job pay from documenting conventions of professional associations and occasional journalistic assignments (UPI had him shoot a 1984 Seattle campaign visit by Democratic VP candidate Geraldine Ferraro, see below). But nights and weekends are a different story.
His “Who’s Who” concert subjects range from CSNY to Pearl Jam, Dylan to Cobain, Bonnie Raitt to Carlos Santana, Willie Nelson to Paul Simon, to McCartney, Clapton, Jagger, Springsteen, Bowie and, yes, the Who. Whew!
Schneider’s most enduring focus, however, has been the trippy Grateful Dead, known for its freeform shows and faithful “Deadheads.” He has seen at least 100 Dead concerts. More than 20 appear in the book.
THEN2: Jerry Garcia plays at the Dead’s last Seattle concert on May 25, 1995, at Memorial Stadium. After Garcia died at 53 on Aug. 9, 1995, this portrait appeared full-page one week later in a Time magazine tribute. (Steve Schneider)
His Dead shots began with a May 25, 1974, gig at UC Santa Barbara featuring then-beardless leader Jerry Garcia. Exactly 21 years later, Schneider captured a greying Garcia at his last Seattle concert, at Memorial Stadium. Garcia died 76 days later at age 53, and Schneider’s portrait filled a page in Time magazine’s tribute.
The band persisted in various forms, most recently as The Dead & Company, which disbanded in July. Its fourth- and fifth-to-last shows were at The Gorge Amphitheatre. Schneider was there, part of “the family.”
For the Dead, and all of Schneider’s star subjects, the most compelling factor has been the music itself. “It once was all new,” he says. “The songs hit the moment in time. Today you enjoy the song, and it brings back good memories. I just preserve a bit of history, that moment in time that I saw.”
You might say it’s what keeps his Dead soul alive.
THEN3: Carlos Santana performs Sept. 9, 1995, at The Gorge Amphitheatre. (Steve Schneider)THEN4:: Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young (from left: Stephen Stills, David Crosby, Graham Nash and Neil Young) perform July 16, 1974, at Arizona’s Tempe Stadium. (Steve Schneider)THEN5:: Emmylou Harris performs April 23, 1977, at Irvine Bowl, Laguna Beach, California. (Steve Schneider)THEN6: Robert Cray performs Nov. 12, 2019, at the Edmonds Center for the Arts. (Steve Schneider)
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Steve Schneider for his invaluable help with this installment!
THEN1: The fireboat Duwamish anchors at the downtown waterfront in 1910. It could pump 9,000 gallons of water a minute at 200-pound pressure. Reflecting the era of wooden craft, it was built with a “ram” bow capable of sinking blazing vessels. Ships later were constructed of steel, so when the Duwamish was dieselized in 1949, its bow was refashioned. (F.H. Noell postcard, courtesy Bob Carney)NOW1: As volunteer Bob Carney and mom Devon Lawrence observe, fireboat Duwamish caretaker Steve Walker helps Owen Lawrence, 2, of Seattle, adjust a disabled water cannon aboard the fireboat on a June visit. The fireboat will display a diorama during the Aug. 19-24 Seattle Design Festival. (Clay Eals)
Published in The Seattle Times online on Aug. 3, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on Aug. 6, 2023
Water cannons evoke big blazes fought by fireboat Duwamish
By Clay Eals
Wildfires often command today’s attention. But how’s this for a different kind of wild?
THEN2: The fireboat Duwamish, lower right, fights futilely to save the Grand Trunk Pacific Dock, north of Colman Dock, on July 30, 1914. At upper left is the Smith Tower, from which many watched the blaze. The tower had opened earlier that month on Independence Day. Colman Dock, built in 1882 and rebuilt after 1889’s Great Seattle Fire, is above the Duwamish at right. (Courtesy Bob Carney)
Early on May 20, 1910, at the foot of Vine Street along Elliott Bay, a kettle of melted asphalt sprang a leak, mushrooming into a “blazing pile of more than 100 tons of inflammable asphalt” and producing “the thickest smoke that ever rolled up from a city,” reported The Seattle Times.
THEN3: The fireboat Duwamish, shown circa 1920, could pump 9,000 gallons of water a minute at 200-pound pressure. Reflecting the era of wooden craft, it was built with a “ram” bow capable of sinking blazing vessels. Ships later were constructed of steel, so when the Duwamish was dieselized in 1949, its bow was refashioned. (Courtesy Bob Carney)
The fire destroyed Independent Asphalt Co. and damaged Occidental Fish Company nearby but could have been catastrophic for the waterfront if not for gushers from “the highest powered fireboat in existence,” the Duwamish. Thousands of tons of water — shot from the vessel’s cannons for more than an hour, aided by two land-based engines along Railroad Avenue (now Alaskan Way) — doused the flames.
Eyewitnesses said the sight of “streams from the fireboat playing across her bow was the prettiest firefighting spectacle ever witnessed in this city.”
THEN4: In 1949, when the Duwamish (misspelled here) converted to diesel-electric from steam, its pump capacity jumped to 22,800 gallons per minute, making it the world’s most powerful fireboat at the time. (Ellis postcard, courtesy Bob Carney)
The inferno came 10 months after the launch of the steam-driven Duwamish, named for the city’s Native American tribe and only river. The fireboat fought decades of water-proximate fires, many with dramatic smoke plumes from both the conflagrations and the fireboat’s aging steam engine. Dieselized in 1949 and retired in 1984, the Duwamish endures as a city and national landmark at South Lake Union.
Seattle’s first fireboat — and the first one on North America’s west coast — was the Snoqualmie, launched in 1891. Sold in 1932, it became a freighter in Alaska, where it burned in 1974. The city’s third fireboat, the Alki, launched in 1927, lingered for decades at Lake Union and recently was scrapped. Thus, the in-between Duwamish is the sole old-time survivor.
NOW3: Steve Walker (left), Duwamish caretaker for the past 10 years, and volunteer Bob Carney chat aboard the fireboat. (Clay Eals)
West Seattle’s Bob Carney, a retired electrical-parts salesman who first toured the Duwamish at age 8 in 1968, could be its biggest historian and fan. He is rivaled only by Beacon Hill’s Steve Walker, who traces his maritime affection to “The Sand Pebbles” (1966) starring namesake Steve McQueen, “the king of cool,” as a military steamship engineer.
Walker, a state ferry retiree, helms the Duwamish, moored permanently at the Historic Ships Wharf next to the Museum of History & Industry. He and Carney lead Sunday tours, spouting gentle cannons of marine lore for visitors.
NOW2: James Lawrence, 5, of San Francisco, aims a disabled Duwamish water cannon on a June visit. (Clay Eals)
Today’s four operating Seattle fireboats are the Chief Seattle (launched in 1984), the Leschi (2007), Fire One (2006) and Fire Two (2014). During summer festivals, their pumps propel a sizeable spray. But the most inspired show emerges from the deck of the Duwamish where, for a few gripping moments at its disabled water cannons, anyone can imagine being a waterborne hero.
THEN5: In front of the Seattle skyline in 1959, the fireboat Duwamish struts its spray. The newly built, white-colored Washington Building stands at center right, while the Seattle Tower (1929) is at far right. (Courtesy Bob Carney)THEN6: On July 4, 1976, the fireboat Duwamish spouts red, white and blue spray for the nation’s Bicentennial. The Duwamish later was featured in an episode of the TV series “Emergency.” (Courtesy Last Resort Fire Department)An identifying sign adorns the red center stack of the fireboat Duwamish. (Clay Eals)During a June visit, 4-year-old Ryan Tong, maneuvers one of the disabled water cannons on the fireboat Duwamish. The Museum of History & Industry stands to the south. (Clay Eals)During a June visit, 4-year-old Ryan Tong and his dad Xin circle the wheelhouse of the fireboat Duwamish. The Museum of History & Industry stands to the south. (Clay Eals)NOW4: Visitor Tom Smith of Seattle examines an artist’s rendering of the inner workings of the Duwamish. (Clay Eals)NOW5: Taken from the neighboring vessel Tordenskjold, this is a panoramic, west-facing view of the 1909 fireboat Duwamish, moored permanently at Northwest Seaport’s Historic Ships Wharf at the south end of Lake Union. The Duwamish also partners with the Museum of History & Industry, the Duwamish Tribe and the Maritime Washington National Historic Area. More info: FireboatDuwamish.com. (Clay Eals)
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Molly Michel, Seattle Design Festival; David Cueropo, Seattle Fire Department; Xin Tong, Kristin Wong, Tom Liu, Devon Lawrence, Tom Smith and especially Bob Carney and Steve Walker for their invaluable help with this installment!
To see Clay Eals‘ 360-degree video of the “Now” prospect and compare it with the “Then” photos, and to hear this column read aloud by Clay, check out our Seattle Now & Then 360 version of the column.
Click the document above to view a pdf of a timeline of history and statistics about the fireboat Duwamish prepared by Bob Carney. (Courtesy Bob Carney)1968, fireboat Duwamish at Todd Shipyard dock fire. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Sept. 17, 1973, fireboat Duwamish demonstrates its water cannons. (Jerry Gay, Seattle Times, courtesy Bob Carney)May 22, 1970, Seattle Fire Chief Gordon Vickery (rear center) with 14 maritime contestants and their sponsors. (Courtesy Bob Carney)May 10, 1969, restrauteur Ivar Haglund and Seattle Fire Chief Gordon Vickery with fireboat Duwamish model, 10 feet long, built on scale of one inch to one foot. Taken at station #5, foot of Madison Street. (Courtesy Bob Carney)1968, fireboat Duwamish at Todd Shipyard dock fire. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Feb. 7, 1956, fireboat Duwamish. (Seattle Municipal Archives, courtesy Bob Carney)Pre-1949, fireboard Duwamish sepia postcard. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Post-1949, fireboat Duwamish wheelhouse. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Post-1949, fireboat Duwamish fights fire near Ballard Bridge. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Post-1949, fireboat Duwamish in Elliott Bay. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Post-1949, fireboat Duwamish, spray color postcard. (Noell & Rognon, courtesy Bob Carney)Post-1949, fireboat Duwamish at Pier 54. (Courtesy Bob Carney)1949, fireboat Duwamish being converted to diesel. (Duwamish collection, courtesy Bob Carney)1949, fireboat Duwamish being converted to diesel. (Duwamish collection, courtesy Bob Carney)1948, fireboat Duwamish at station #5, foot of Madison Street. (Courtesy Bob Carney)1947 or 1948, fireboat Duwamish at station #5 prior to diesel conversion. (Bob Carney collection)Between April 1, 1943, and Sept. 30, 1945, fireboat Duwamish, under Coast Guard command. (Wikipedia Commons, courtesy Bob Carney)1930s, fireboat Duwamish, view of stern. (Courtesy Bob Carney)1930s, fireboat Duwamish at station #40, foot of Charles St. (Bob Carney collection)1920, fireboat Duwamish near Pier 5. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Circa 1920, fireboat Duwamish at station #5, foot of Madison Street. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Circa 1920, fireboat Duwamish in Elliott Bay (Bob Carney collection)Circa 1920, fireboat Duwamish in Elliott Bay downtown. (Bob Carney collection)Circa 1920, fireboat Duwamish at fuel dock. (Bob Carney collection)Circa 1920, fireboat Duwamish at fuel dock. (Bob Carney collection)Pre-1917, fireboat Duwamish. (Bob Carney collection)Post-1917, fireboat Duwamish at station #5. The Reliance is at left (Bob Carney collection)Post-1917, fireboat Duwamish at station #5. (Bob Carney collection)July 30, 1914, fireboat Snoqualmie at Grand Trunk Pacific dock fire (Bob Carney collection)July 30, 1914, fireboat Duwamish at Grand Trunk Pacific dock fire. (Paul Dorpat collection, courtesy Bob Carney)March 17, 1912, fireboat Duwamish at station #5, Madison Street. (Courtesy Bob Carney)Between 1911 and July 30, 1914, fireboat Duwamish, station #5 at Madison Street. (Paul Dorpat collection, courtesy Bob Carney)1910, fireboat Duwamish at the downtown waterfront (Wikipedia Commons, courtesy Bob Carney)1910, fireboats Duwamish and Snoqualmie, station #5, Madison Street, Grand Trunk pier under Construction (University of Washington Special Collections, courtesy Bob Carney)1909, the fireboat Duwamish at Richmond Beach. (Windy City Photos, courtesy Bob Carney)July 3, 1909, the fireboat Duwamish hull is launched at Richmond Beach. (Courtesy Bob Carney)July 3, 1909, the fireboat Duwamish at Richmond Beach. (Courtesy Bob Carney)June 28, 2023, the 2007 Seattle fireboat Leschi displays spray from its water cannons in Elliott Bay with downtown in the background. (Clay Eals)May 18, 1909, Seattle Times, p9.May 20, 1909, Seattle Times, p2.July 2, 1909, Seattle Times, p11.Oct. 27, 1909, Seattle Times, p16.July 31, 1914, Seattle Times, p1.July 31, 1914, Seattle Times, p3.
THEN1: At 15 feet, 4 inches tall, Great Northern steam locomotive #1246 was a draw at Woodland Park Zoo for 27 years starting in 1953. A companion miniature train, not shown, served as a kiddie ride during the same era. This postcard view, taken prior to a needed, periodic repainting, is circa 1969. (Seattle Municipal Archives)NOW1: Standing before Great Northern locomotive #1246 at Snoqualmie’s Northwest Railway Museum are (from left) Richard Anderson, executive director; Saxon Bisbee, collection care project manager; Emily Boersma, volunteer and program coordinator; Selena AllenShipman, visitor services assistant; Kiley Neil, visitor services and collections assistant; Kacy Hardin, retail and visitor services manager; Cole Van Gerpen, trustee; Cristy Lake, deputy director; and volunteers Steve Olson and Robert Stivers. The steamer arrived at the museum April 27. At rear is the museum’s restored Northern Pacific switcher locomotive #924. For more info, visit TrainMuseum.org. (Clay Eals)
Published in The Seattle Times online on July 27, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on July 30, 2023
An overdue return trip for railway workhorse and zoo touchstone
By Clay Eals
We at “Now & Then” usually take our “Now” photos at, or near, the same spot as the “Then” images, but this week, the spatial spread is greater. We’re talking 35 miles.
At least the locales are in King County, and you may abide the distant pairing because the fundamental function of our subject is to move people and things from one place to another.
THEN3 (online only): A Seattle Transfer Co. crew moves locomotive #1246 to Woodland Park Zoo prior to a July 18, 1953, dedication ceremony that drew 500 people and Koondi, a zoo chimp. (Walter Ainsworth Collection, Great Northern Railway Historical Society)
Those who lived here as children between 1953 and 1980 (or as adults with kid-like awe) likely recall with warmth and admiration, if not worship, the colorful locomotive #1246 that greeted visitors inside the south entrance of Woodland Park Zoo. The Great Northern Railway gifted the steamer to the city on the cusp of dieselizing its locomotive fleet.
THEN2: Locomotive #1246 rolls south across the Ballard railroad bridge circa 1940. (James Turner, Great Northern Railway Historical Society)
Built in 1907, it had what today would be called a “wow” factor. To fully appreciate the gleaming engine, more than 15 feet tall, you had to look way up. In person, it demanded honor and deference — more than could be conveyed by mere visual or verbal depiction.
Of course, #1246 possessed a mobile past that long predated its stationary role as a zoo touchstone. For decades, it toiled on rails from Portland to Vancouver, B.C., and over the Cascades to and from Wenatchee.
THEN4: Interpretive text on locomotive #1246 explains its historical significance. (Cordell Newby)
For a time during the locomotive’s zoo stint, a placard heralded #1246’s historic status as a consolidation-style engine, featuring two small pilot wheels followed by eight 55-inch-diameter drive wheels:
“They were slower and less spectacular than earlier, lighter types, but their initial (starting) tractive effort was superior, and they could start and pull longer trains. For more than 75 years, they were the workhorses of American railroads, and their performance in mountainous terrain played a significant part in the development of the west.”
The narrative fits “The Railroad Changed Everything” tagline of Snoqualmie’s Northwest Railway Museum, which brought #1246 back to King County in late April after nearly 30 years of negotiations with owners in desert-like southern Oregon. Though looking “like it was pulled up from the bottom of a lake,” says Richard Anderson, executive director, it is reassuringly intact, complete with “grime and grease” from when it last operated 70 years ago.
Restoration will take years, but Anderson says #1246 already stands as a “massive and powerful” asset among the organization’s 75 rail vehicles. “You can walk right up to it and touch it,” he says, and the steam legacy adds “a sense of life.”
Eventually it will bolster an anticipated 35,000 square-foot addition to the museum’s current 24,000 square feet — just in time to awe the senses of a new generation of children.
NOW2: Cole Van Gerpen, who grew up in the Snoqualmie Valley, was a Northwest Railway Museum volunteer from age 8 to 15, then became a ticket agent and administrative assistant before joining the board as a trustee. Locomotive #1246 represents, for him, “very much an industry and a history behind American culture — and the culture of the world as a whole — that’s very human-driven more so than I think any other industrial or mechanical thing that we have.” (Clay Eals)
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Kevin Weiderstrom, Bob Kelly, Richard Anderson and Dan Kerlee for their invaluable help with this installment!
To see Clay Eals‘ 360-degree video of the “Now” prospect and compare it with the “Then” photos, and to hear this column read aloud by Clay, check out our Seattle Now & Then 360 version of the column.
Locomotive #1246, working in Everett prior to 1953. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Locomotive #1246 in place at Woodland Park Zoo, 1953-1980. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in place at Woodland Park Zoo, 1953-1980. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in the process of being moved to Northwest Railway Museum in Snoqualmie. (Northwest Railway Museum)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, in Interbay prior to being moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, in Interbay prior to being moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, when it was moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, when it was moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, when it was moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, when it was moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Locomotive #1246 in 1953, when it was moved to Woodland Park Zoo. (Great Northern Railway Historical Society)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)Wreck of locomotive #1246 in Wenatchee, 1943 or 1947. (Courtesy Kevin Weiderstrom)March 8, 1943, Seattle Times, p5.Oct. 21, 1947, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p12.May 1, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p1.May 1, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p6.May 14, 1953, Seattle Times, p25.June 4, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p6.June 4, 1953, Seattle Times, p16.June 17, 1953, Seattle Times, p31.June 18, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p9.June 19, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p26.June 19, 1953, Seattle Times, p1.June 20, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p11.June 23, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p1.June 24, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p16.July 15, 1953, Seattle Times, p42.July 18, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p4.July 19, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p1.July 19, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p29.July 24, 1953, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p3.Sept. 19, 1955, Seattle Times, p6.Nov. 8, 1959, Seattle Times, p156.Nov. 8, 1959, Seattle Times, p157.Sept. 24, 1967, Seattle Times, p46.Oct. 1, 1967, Seattle Times, p3.Oct. 1, 1967, Seattle Times, p4.Oct. 14, 1970, Seattle Times, p14.Jan. 2, 1980, Seattle Times, p13.Jan. 7, 1980, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p13.March 13, 1980, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p43.June 26, 1980, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p1.Dec. 20, 1982, Seattle Times, p30.
THEN1: Taken from northeast Queen Anne Hill, this 1910 view shows the coal gasification plant fully operational. Just behind it, across Portage Bay, stands the University of Washington, site of the previous year’s Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition. Virgin timber on the horizon lines what are known today as the View Ridge and Hawthorne Hills neighborhoods.NOW: On a balmy June evening, park visitors dot Kite Hill. The preserved cracking towers, sometimes called Seattle’s iron Stonehenge, are the sole survivors among what were more than 1,400 U.S. gasification plants.
Published in The Seattle Times online on July 20, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on July 23, 2023
Gas Works: a belching hellscape turns post-industrial paradise
By Jean Sherrard
There was a time when gas lighting had no ulterior motives. The steady golden flame was an assurance of illumination on demand and a promise of innovations to come.
When the Seattle Gas Lighting Company lit up 5 city streets and 42 private homes on New Year’s Eve 1873, the sound of corks popping must have been accompanied by sighs of envy from denizens of darker Seattle.
For the fortunate few early adopters, the first gas, converted from Eastside coal, was delivered through hollowed-out cedar logs.
The nascent utility of settlers Arthur Denny and Dexter Horton grew rapidly to match increased demand, supplying more than 1,200 customers by 1892. By then, gas increasingly provided both light and heat for home appliances.
Eastern investors further expanded the utility, moving its production facilities to Brown’s Point on north Lake Union in 1906. Coal gasification was an immensely filthy process, requiring vast quantities of water that the then-undeveloped 20-acre lakeside tract could accommodate.
Over the next 50 years, belching out smoke, flames and fumes while contaminating soil, groundwater and sediment, the plant was an unwelcome neighbor, even after converting to marginally cleaner oil gasification in 1937. Many Wallingford houses were built to avoid the hellish view of tower effluvia. Complaints about the facility poured in throughout its half-century tenure.
: Spewing smoke and flames is the Seattle Gas Lighting Company’s facility, in a dramatic nighttime photo from 1947. For gasping, soot-covered Wallingford, it was a nightmare.
Relief greeted the plant’s closure in 1956 when the Trans Mountain Gas Pipeline opened, bringing natural gas from Canada to Washington state. The utility, renamed Washington Natural Gas, left 20 noxious acres behind. Given the view location, however, calls soon mounted to convert it into a city park.
Enter noted landscape architect and University of Washington professor Richard Haag (1923-2018). His 1962 proposal for adaptive reuse was revolutionary — and initially controversial. Following cleanup of the polluted site, Haag advocated preserving the 5-story cracking towers while converting the plant’s boiler house to a picnic shelter and its exhauster-compressor building into a brightly painted children’s play barn.
Richard Haag visits Gas Works Park in 2015 with colleague Thaisa Way, University of Washington professor of landscape architecture and author of “The Landscape Architecture of Richard Haag.” The concrete pillars once supported tracks for coal trains supplying the gasification plant.
A 45-foot high Great Mound (aka Kite Hill), made of construction fill, would cover polluted soil while providing breathtaking vistas from what had been a choking hellscape.
In October 1973, Gas Works Park began opening in stages, and was immediately acclaimed as one of Seattle’s favorite parks. Designated a Seattle landmark in 1999, it was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2013.
Today, park cleanup is ongoing. Reducing toxic lake sediment is next in a series of environmental remediations. But this rough diamond in the crown of Seattle parks is worth the effort — no gas lighting required.
WEB EXTRAS
For Paul Dorpat’s original 2015 column featuring an interview with landscape architect Richard Haag, click here!
THEN1: As far as the eye can see, a crowd of 30,000, including many Boy Scouts, assembles at an Elks-sponsored picnic at Woodland Park on July 27, 1923, to hear an address by President Warren G. Harding. (Museum of History & Industry)NOW1: Giraffes patrol the stretch of Woodland Park where Harding spoke in 1923. Today it constitutes the African Savannah of Woodland Park Zoo. At right is presidential historian Mike Purdy, who notes that Harding’s speeches were both alliterative and elliptical. Purdy cites William Gibbs McAdoo, ex-secretary of the treasury and future U.S. senator, who called Harding’s rhetoric “an army of pompous phrases moving across the landscape in search of an idea.” To see Purdy’s books and writings, visit his website. (Clay Eals)
Published in The Seattle Times online on July 13, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on July 16, 2023
A century ago, a Seattle speech foreshadowed a president’s death
By Clay Eals
Today we ruminate over presidents of advanced age. But a century ago, the U.S. president was Warren G. Harding, then just 57.
In 1923, his third presidential year, Harding mounted a grueling, two-month journey through the American West, with final stops planned in Washington, Oregon and California. Before sailing north to Alaska (then a territory), he addressed 25,000 on July 5 in Tacoma. Back south in Seattle on July 27, he spoke to 30,000, including many Boy Scouts, at Woodland Park and 30,000 at filled-to-capacity University of Washington (now Husky) Stadium.
Six days later … he died.
His Seattle speeches were the last for a president who — despite affability, enthusiasm and a statesman’s countenance — left professional and personal scandals in his wake. Today, historians rate him among America’s worst presidents.
A rural Ohio newspaperman who had risen to U.S. senator, Harding was a reluctant compromise candidate during the 1920 Republican convention in Chicago, emerging from a proverbially smoke-filled room.
Three years after his election, his 5 hours in Seattle played an unintentional role in his demise. He had traveled 5,246 miles via rail, car and steamship in just 22 days. After his Woodland Park appearance, plus a downtown parade and reception at Volunteer Park, his major speechifying ended at the UW.
THEN2: Some 30,000 gather for a speech by President Warren G. Harding on the afternoon of July 27, 1923, at University of Washington (now Husky) Stadium. (Courtesy Ron Edge)
There, wrote biographer Francis Russell, Harding’s cheeks looked green, and his jaws were “set in pain.” While speaking, the president “hesitated, slurred his words [and] called Alaska ‘Nebraska.’ ”
Midway, Harding “began to falter, dropped the manuscript and grasped the desk,” recounted Herbert Hoover, secretary of commerce (and later president), who sat behind Harding, picked up the scattered sheafs and quickly organized and fed Harding the remaining pages. Harding, Hoover wrote, “managed to get through the speech.”
NOW2: Graduates, family and friends assemble June 10 at Husky Stadium for University of Washington commencement. (Jean Sherrard)
“PRESIDENT ILL!” screamed a Seattle Times banner the next day. Reportedly contracting ptomaine from poisonous crabmeat en route from Alaska, Harding was ordered to bed rest on his train. His tour abruptly ended.
“PRESIDENT IS DEAD” shouted the Seattle Post-Intelligencer front page on Aug. 3. His evening passing, in a San Francisco hotel, came from a heart attack. Five hours later, in Vermont, his vice-president, Calvin Coolidge, was sworn in as his successor.
“He had no business being president, but strange things happen,” says Mike Purdy, presidential historian, of West Seattle, who says Harding lacked the wisdom and vision for the role.
Harding himself offered confirmation: “The presidency is hell. There is no other word to describe it,” he once said. “I knew this job would be too much for me. I am not fit for this office and should never have been here.”
THEN4: Harding waves to the crowd as his car circles Husky Stadium prior to his speech.(Museum of History & Industry)NOW4: Graduates bear colorful attire June 10 at UW commencement. (Jean Sherrard)
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Ron Edge, Greg Lange, Wendy Malloy, Gigi Allianic and Craig Newberry of Woodland Park Zoo, the PBS series “The American President” and especially Mike Purdy for their invaluable help with this installment!
To see Clay Eals‘ 360-degree video of the “Now” prospect and compare it with the “Then” photos, and to hear this column read aloud by Clay, check out our Seattle Now & Then 360 version of the column.
THEN1: The Green Lake Branch of the Seattle Public Library, just before opening its doors in July 1910. Most likely librarian Mayme Batterson and children’s librarian Loretta Cole are posed among the threesome on the front steps. (Courtesy Museum of History & Industry)NOW1: Today’s Green Lake Branch perches above the shores of one of Seattle’s most popular parks. In 2019, voters approved a levy to earthquake-proof the building, which will re-open in 2024. (Jean Sherrard)
Published in The Seattle Times online on July 6, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on July 9, 2023
Renovations will bolster Green Lake’s ‘heart of the community’
By Jean Sherrard
While today’s billionaires are blowing up rockets in Earth’s lower atmosphere and dreaming of colonizing Mars, one of the richest men in the world at the dawn of the 20th century devoted himself to building an enduring legacy of brick and mortar.
Industrialist, bibliophile and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie (1835-1919) emigrated from Scotland to the United States with his working-class parents in 1847. At 13, he worked in an Allegheny cotton mill, changing bobbins 6 days a week, 12 hours a day. From these unlikely beginnings, Carnegie’s industrial innovations and political machinations resulted in a vast steel empire.
A notorious strikebreaker noted for paying his workers abysmally low wages, the complicated robber baron also publicly supported progressive tax laws, including estate taxes. Famously he insisted, “The man who dies rich, dies in disgrace.”
Philanthropist Andrew Carnegie in 1913, age 78. His sale of Carnegie Steel to US Steel in 1901 made him one of the richest men of his era.
Indeed, by the time of his death, Carnegie had donated 90% of his wealth, largely in funding construction of 2,509 libraries throughout the English-speaking world — 1,689 in the United States alone.
Moreover, committed to wide accessibility of literature and reading, Carnegie promoted unrestricted “open stack” policies, encouraging library patrons to browse freely among shelves of books.
One of 7 extant Carnegie library buildings in Seattle, the Green Lake Branch was built on land purchased chiefly by neighborhood contributions. Carnegie’s foundation fronted $35,000 (around $1.2 million in today’s dollars) for construction of the two-story edifice.
Designed by Seattle architects Woodruff Somerville and Joseph Cote in French Renaissance Revival style while hewing to Carnegie’s prescriptions, the elegant structure has more than held its own, nominated to the National Register of Historic Places in 1982 and designated a Seattle landmark in 2001.
Dawn Rutherford, the Seattle Public Library’s interim northwest regional manager, and Elisa Murray, digital communications specialist, provide reflections at the branch, the first of three unreinforced masonry Carnegie library structures to be shuttered for seismic retrofitting, ADA accessibility upgrades, conversion to an electric heat pump system and significant interior renovations.
Library staffers Elisa Murray (left) and Dawn Rutherford look up from a freshly dug pit where seismically reinforced foundations are to be poured. Project engineer Jordan B. and superintendent Danny Werven (right) examine exposed glacial till. “Almost as hard as concrete,” Werven says. (Jean Sherrard)
Will Carnegie’s investment in libraries continue to yield dividends in today’s digital era? “The more we’re online,” Rutherford says, “the more we need a physical place that we can come together.” For young and old, she says, seeking to understand and adapt to changing technologies, libraries remain “the beating heart of the community.”
Besides, Murray adds, “People still love their books, and at the library, books are our baseline.”
Not having died with the most toys, Carnegie, a man of seemingly irreconcilable contradictions, left behind gifts that will enrich and enlighten terrestrial communities for generations to come.
WEB EXTRAS
More interior photos of seismic and facility improvements:
The original commemorative plaquePreparing the library’s foundation for new footings to support the retrofit.The former children’s sectionConstruction seen from the main floorFrom left, Elisa Murray, Dawn Rutherford, Jordan B. and Danny Werven stand above the abyss.
THEN1: With an Argus 35mm camera, Bill Benshoof looked south from a ferry on the Mukilteo-Clinton run and captured Mount Rainier peeking over the mainland behind two Century 21-bannered Washington State Ferries: the Kehloken (foreground, built in 1926, sold by the state in 1975, gutted by fire in 1979 near Kirkland and sunk as an artificial reef at Possession Point on Whidbey Island) and the Rhododendron (built in 1947 and sold by the state in 2013 to Island Scallops at Qualicum Beach, British Columbia). (Bill Benshoof)NOW: Bill and Willie Benshoof ride the Kitsap ferry (built in 1980) between Mukilteo and Clinton while the ferry Tokitae (built in 2014) passes behind them and Mount Rainier peeks over the mainland. The couple lived on south Whidbey Island for decades before moving in 2021 to Renton. (Clay Eals)
Published in The Seattle Times online on June 29, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on July 2, 2023
Look closely for the ferries’ floating billboards for Century 21
By Clay Eals
Countless times have we seen this placid, pleasing “Then” scene — two Washington State Ferries passing each other while criss-crossing Puget Sound.
But look more closely.
The 1962 Seattle World’s Fair logo. (Official Guide Book)
It’s 1962, and each ferry bears a 40-foot-long banner advertising the Seattle World’s Fair. Three-foot-tall letters proclaim the exposition’s futuristic moniker, Century 21. After “21” is the fair’s official logo, an arrowed circle resembling the biological male symbol and the astrological symbol for Mars. Its arrow points upper right, to space-age progress. Inside the orb is a skeletal cartoon globe. Throughout our region that year, the logo was seemingly everywhere.
But look even more closely.
Before “Century” is the same logo, only in reverse. The arrow points upper left. To the “Northwest,” perhaps? Or representing the double-ended, ambidextrous ferries themselves?
“The Future Remembered: The 1962 Seattle World’s Fair and Its legacy,” by Paula Becker and Alan Stein.
The speculation comes from Paula Becker and Alan Stein, who wrote the definitive 2011 coffee-table book “The Future Remembered: The 1962 Seattle World’s Fair and Its Legacy.” The two otherwise puzzle about the inverted logo, which in their research they never saw reversed in any other context.
The Kalakala (above) and Tillikum ferries bear the Century 21 banner in 1962. (EvergreenFleet.com)
The banners, which transformed all 21 state ferries into floating billboards starting in June 1961, were prepared by the state and authorized by Gov. Albert Rosellini. The ads not only bolstered fair attendance but also helped boost 1962 ferry traffic to record levels: 3.2 million vehicles and 9.8 million people.
Our main “Then” photo itself is also distinctive. Most extant photos of the bannered ferries are in black-and-white, and they usually show only one such vessel, not two.
The photographer was then-25-year-old William “Bill” Benshoof, who captured a south-facing view of the Kehloken (foreground) and Rhododendron ferries on the Mukilteo-Clinton run while courting 21-year-old Wylene “Willie” Feske, the woman he would marry Nov. 30 that year.
Fresh from a Navy stint, he was working on the Minuteman missile project for Boeing, while she was beginning a phone-company career. Each living with family near White Center in 1962, the two visited Bill’s aunt on Whidbey Island, hence the ferry trip, and took in the big-city fair.
THEN3A/B/C/D: During the Seattle World’s Fair, Bill Benshoof captured (clockwise from upper left) a Monorail train rolling to its downtown station past the old Orpheum Theatre; Wild Mouse and other fair rides; the fair’s Gayway rides and Japanese Village; and the Union 76 Skyride above the International Fountain. (Bill Benshoof)
“It put Seattle on the map,” Bill says. “It was our Disneyland.” Willie recalls “how excited people were. They all had to come to Seattle to see the Space Needle and the center.” Bill liked “the funny-looking elevator” called the Bubbleator inside the Coliseum (today’s Climate Pledge Arena). Willie delighted in a Pacific Northwest Bell exhibit “where you could talk on the phone and see each other.” With a laugh, she recalls telling a friend at the time, “That’s never gonna happen.”
Could bannered ferries happen again? Perhaps (wink!) with our next world’s fair?
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Dina Skeels, Jade D’Addario of the Seattle Public Library Seattle Room, Ian Sterling and Christy Grnaquist of Washington State Ferries, Emily & Bruce Howard, Paula Becker, Alan Stein and especially Bill & Willie Benshoof for their invaluable help with this installment!
THEN: A 1917 view of the Fisher Flouring Mill looking northeast across the Duwamish River’s west channel. Harbor Island, completed in 1909, was built of fill from the Yesler and Jackson Street regrades and dredge spoils from the river’s bed. Until the late-1930s, it was the largest artificial island in the world. (courtesy Phelps Fisher)NOW1: Standing atop the shuttered mill’s vast warehouse are (from left) author and scone-maker Jim Erickson, Phelps Fisher and Kate Becker, King County creative economy director. Becker heads efforts to repurpose the warehouse as a film and TV production studio. (Jean Sherrard)
Published in The Seattle Times online on June 22, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on June 25, 2023
The flouring Fisher family legacy–from scones to silver screen
By Jean Sherrard
A Now & Then pop quiz: What do the once-mighty Fisher Communications Company, the Puyallup Fair and recently crowned King Charles III have in common? A hint: It’s dense, fragrant and dolloped with butter, clotted cream and fresh jam.
Kudos to all who came up with (drum roll) … the scone.
Jim Erickson will sign copies of his book at the Invitation Bookshop in Gig Harbor on June 27, the Lakewood Barnes & Noble on June 30, the Puyallup Library on July 8, and King’s Books in Tacoma on July 11.
James Erickson, author of the lavishly illustrated “Washington’s Fisher Scones: An Iconic Northwest Treat since 1911,” records the pastry’s Scottish origins. He guesses that the medieval town of Scone (also noted for the Stone of Scone, atop which all British monarchs have been crowned for 800 years) may have baked an eponymous prototype in the early 1500s.
In his new book, Erickson documents the entrepreneurial, non-royal Fishers, who, seeking opportunities in a booming port city, relocated in 1911 from Montana to Seattle.
Just-completed 350-acre Harbor Island at the mouth of the Duwamish River, constructed of fill from dredging and recent Seattle regrades, with ready access to shipping and room to grow, proved the ideal location for their flour mill.
Largest in the western United States, the Fisher plant was “equipped to grind about 10,000 bushels of wheat … [and] create 2,000 barrels of flour a day.” But in the fiercely competitive flour business, Erickson writes, effective ads were key. Reaching into its Scotch ancestry, the family decided “to make scones and give them away or sell them for a nickel.”
In 1915, the “sweet treats” were debuted to acclaim at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco, followed that year with the first annual appearance of a Fisher Scone booth at the Puyallup State Fair.
A decade later, another promotional brainchild beckoned. Fans of the then-new medium of radio, the Fishers purchased a broadcast frequency — available following the arrest of its previous owner, notorious Seattle bootlegger Roy Olmsted. The station, KOMO, went on the air Dec. 31, 1926, promoting Fisher Blend Flour.
In years to come, the family built a local media empire comprising dozens of radio and TV stations. Phelps Fisher, today a vigorous 90-year-old, worked his way up from the flour mill to chair the board of Fisher Communications.
For Fisher, it’s always been about family. “We worked together, supported each other and managed to get along,” he says. The result: “a wonderful, honest, productive business for the better part of the 20th century.”
Kate Becker welcomes Phelps Fisher (left) and Jim Erickson to a vast soundstage inside the 117,000-foot former Fisher Flour warehouse, now Harbor Island Studios. During the pandemic, several TV series were produced here, including an Amy Poehler production, “Three Busy Debras.”
The flour mill was sold to Pendleton Flour Mills in 2001 and recently was transformed to a film studio. Meanwhile, Fisher Communications was acquired by Sinclair Broadcast Group in 2016. The Fisher Scone, notes Jim Erickson, “has outlived the very brand it served to promote.”
Phelps Fisher on the steps of the former Fisher Flour office building..
Plus a few more photos from the former Fisher Flour/now Harbor Island Studios site:
A huge “green screen” in place at Harbor Island Studios.The last time Phelps Fisher visited, the warehouse was filled with sacks of flour.A southeast view from the warehouse roof along a branch of the Duwamish river.A trapdoor in the warehouse reveals the waters of the Duwamish below.A northerly view of the huge flour mill.
THEN1: In this snowy scene from winter 1888, the steamboat Cascade, piloted by Captain George W. Gove, stops along the Snoqualmie River at The Landing, later renamed Fall City, next to today’s state Highway 202. Hauling hops from nearby farms, it also picked up stacked 4-foot cordwood. This is the cover photo for “Steamboats on the Snoqualmie,” a book by Steve Barker and Jack Russell. Built in 1884, the Cascade last operated in 1901. Visible onshore with a dog is 8-year-old Albert Moore, later a farmer and North Bend Timber fire warden. (Courtesy Snoqualmie Valley Museum)NOW1: Gathering 200 feet east of the “Then” photo site are (from left) the co-authors of “Steamboats on the Snoqualmie,” Steve Barker and Jack Russell, with 11 Snoqualmie Valley heritage enthusiasts. Also displayed is a three-foot scale model of the Black Prince, the last sternwheeler to ply the Snoqualmie River as far as just below Duvall. Its final run, in 1928, was to remove equipment and machinery from an old mill. The model is owned by the Tolt Historical Society. Others pictured are (standing, from left) Kelly Barker, wife of Steve Barker; Hideko Fletcher, partner of Jack Russell; and, holding the Black Prince model: Jim Jordan, Tolt Historical Society trustee; Gene Stevens, Fall City Historical Society historian; and Rick Divers, Fall City Historical Society president. Sitting (from left) are Maida Ingalls, Tolt Historical Society president; Kris and Dick Kirby, Snoqualmie Valley Museum board member; Diana Anderson Amos, Tolt Historical Society volunteer; Marion Querro, Fall City Historical Society volunteer; and Donna Driver-Kummen, Fall City Historical Society board member. Barker and Russell will speak about their book Oct. 20, 2023, to the Fall City Historical Society. More info: Barker-Russell.com. (Jean Sherrard)
Published in The Seattle Times online on June 15, 2023
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on June 18, 2023
Soothing steamboat runs ended in upriver Snoqualmie in 1917
By Clay Eals
All 13 of those posing in this week’s idyllic “Now” scene came to the riverbank across from downtown Fall City by car. So did Jean Sherrard and I. Indirectly, the needs and wants of us and our collective forebears are why this section of the Snoqualmie River hasn’t seen a paddle-driven steamboat in well over a century.
THEN3: A side view of the 99-foot sternwheeler Cascade, as it backs up on Puget Sound in the late 1880s. (University of Washington Special Collections)
In the late 19th century, steamboats, also called sternwheelers, were part of Puget Sound’s celebrated Mosquito Fleet and a prime mode of transport for hops, timber and people in rural waterways. But their navigation fell victim to unmistakable signs of growth and progress — the complicating cables and booms of cross-channel ferries and bridges, the parallel routes of new railroad lines and the coming popularity (and rumble) of automobiles and trucks. Steamboat runs upriver as far as past Duvall, ended by 1917.
Thus, any rivercraft sailing past Fall City today consists only of recreational rowboats, rafts and kayaks.
But oh, for the days of steamboats, yearn childhood pals Steve Barker and Jack Russell. Now straddling age 78, they devoted their four most recent years to assembling a new, large-format book, “Steamboats on the Snoqualmie.” Its 148 pages overflow with 130 historical photos, six intricate maps and myriad details of elegant vessels from a seemingly gentler time, with names like the Traveler, the Ranger and the May Queen.
The softcover volume focuses on what we might call three “S-es”: the Snoqualmie River and to a lesser extent its downstream siblings, the Skykomish and Snohomish — a system emanating from the Cascades and snaking to saltwater in a northwesterly direction from above Snoqualmie Falls to Everett.
THEN2: As sixth-graders in 1957, Jack Russell (top row, far left) and Steve Barker (top row, far right) stand in a class photo at Hawthorne Elementary School in the Rainier Valley. They have been friends for 67 years. (Courtesy Jack Russell)
Russell, of unincorporated Skyway (between Seattle and Renton), and Barker, of Duvall, met in the fifth grade in 1955-56 at Hawthorne Elementary School in the Rainier Valley. Their families bore sternwheeler connections that buoyed their 67-year friendship.
NOW2 (online only): Co-authors Steve Barker (left) and Jack Russell stand in the pilothouse of Russell’s Christine W sternwheeler at Fishermen’s Terminal. Russell charters tours for up to 48 people. (From “Steamboats on the Snoqualmie“)
Barker, a retired banker, was the primary writer and Russell the researcher. Russell also parlayed his steamer passion into an adult vocation he still practices today. He runs a Fishermen’s Terminal-based charter service on the 1993-vintage Christine W, the only commercial sternwheeler on the Sound. It embodies an appeal the book can only attempt to capture.
“It’s the smell of the steam and the cylinder oil. It’s not a diesel chugging away,” Russell says. “It only goes 5 to 6 mph, so it’s a gentler motion. And steam whistles can be very pretty, very melodious. It just sounds different and feels different than a propeller vessel.
“And when the paddlewheel turns, you can hear the wheel hitting the water. It’s a soothing sound.”
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Ruth Pickering, Lisa Oberg and especially Steve Barker and Jack Russell for their invaluable help with this installment!
To see Jean Sherrard’s 360-degree video of the “Now” prospect and compare it with the “Then” photos, and to hear this column read aloud by Clay, check out our Seattle Now & Then 360 version of the column. It includes the sounds of a sternwheeler whistle and paddleboat.
February 2023 cover of the Fall City Historical Society newsletter.Steve Barker and Jack Russell with Russell’s sternwheeler, the Christine W. (Clay Eals)The Christine W sternwheeler is The boat is named for Jack Russell’s niece Christie (September 1973-July 2002). who died cancer. (Courtesy Jack Russell)The Olympic sternwheeler plies the Sammamish River near Bothell. (Courtesy Jack Russell)March 13, 1891, Seattle Post-Intelligencer.Jan. 18, 1894, Anacortes American.March 31, 1935, Seattle Times, p33.Sept. 29, 1947, Seattle Times, p30.April 4, 1954, Seattle Times, p82.June 7, 1954, Seattle Times, p29.June 9, 1954, Seattle Times, p12.June 10, 1954, Seattle Times, p2.June 11, 1954, Seattle Times, p42.March 4, 1956, Seattle Times, p22.
Here is one of the photos of an inclined coal railway whose location had been identified as in south Bellevue but whose true location has been confirmed by the Newcastle Historical Society. It’s 100 miles north along the southeast shore of Lake Whatcom, five miles southeast of Bellingham. This is the “looking down” photo described below. (Eastside Heritage Center, L90.24.10)
Actual site of ‘Newcastle’ photos is
100 miles north of Lake Washington
(Editor’s note: For this blog post, we invite two guests from the Newcastle Historical Society to contribute a lesson in historical research!)
By Matt McCauley and Kent Sullivan
Newcastle Historical Society
As embarrassing as mistakes can be, in the realm of historical research it is particularly important to correct the record when one inevitably goofs. Here is our journey through the stages of grief:
In the case of research on Seattle’s first railroad, constructed in the early 1870s by Seattle Coal & Transportation Co., our ad hoc group of historians had as the centerpiece of its research two beautiful 19th century photographs of the inclined railway that the company constructed in today’s south Bellevue, the location of which was known at that time as Bensonville.
Coal cars were lowered down the steep incline to a wharf, where they continued their journey, in the finest Rube Goldberg fashion, up Lake Washington to today’s Montlake neighborhood, then across another short stretch of rail, then on another barge ride across Lake Union, and then down a final stretch of rail to another incline at the foot of Pike Street, upon which the cars were lowered then dumped into coal bunkers at the company’s salt water wharf.
The coal was then loaded onto ships for transport to San Francisco and other distant markets.
Here is the second of two photos whose true location has been confirmed by the Newcastle Historical Society. It’s 100 miles north along the southeast shore of Lake Whatcom, five miles southeast of Bellingham. This is the “looking up” photo described in this post. (Eastside Heritage Center, L90.24.09)
These two photos of the incline are quite striking, though their provenance was a bit hazy. A local family had brought prints to the old Marymoor Museum in 1990. The prints previously were in the possession of a family ancestor who had been involved in 19th century coal mining in the Newcastle area.
The family did not want to donate the prints to Eastside Heritage Center, so the prints were photographed on the spot, which was the best-available method in 1990 for quick reproductions, and they were filed away with sparse notes.
Much later, the old Marymoor Museum’s collections were transferred to the then-new Eastside Heritage Center, and it was from the Eastside Heritage Center that the Newcastle Historical Society learned of, and became keenly interested in, them.
In fact, it was the re-discovery of these images that prompted the formation of our ad hoc Seattle Coal and Transportation Co. research team, which brought together people who previously did not know each other and are now good friends — an unexpected but happy outcome.
Our team of eight — Robert Boyd, Harry Dursch, Gary Dutt, Mike Intlekofer, Eva Lundahl, Russ Segner as well as the two of us — did years of research and collected considerable information, including a major, unsuccessful effort to locate the original prints.
We eventually went public a few years ago with our findings by giving several presentations, which led to Jean Sherrard and Clay Eals inviting us to collaborate on this “Now & Then” column from September 2019.
(Our team also provided deep background research on the 1850s-1870s mining era for the recent revision of the classic local history book “The Coals of Newcastle.”)
Shortly after the release of the “Now & Then” column about our research, we heard from Andy Valaas, a local resident with an interest in history whom we did not previously know. He first came across these images in an online presentation by Jane Morton of Eastside Heritage Center and did not believe the two images of the incline were of our incline.
A few things struck Andy:
First, as a long-time downhill skier, he thought the incline in the photos was too high and too steep to have been along the southeastern shore of Lake Washington.
Andy also believed the type of steam donkey engine seen in one of the photos would have not yet been in use while the Newcastle incline was in operation (1872-1878).
In addition, he believed the shape of the Mercer Island shoreline did not match closely enough what could be seen in the “looking down” photo. (Of note: Matt had previously taken several “today” photos and studied early shoreline maps, the upshot of which was that a match seemed possible, although not iron-clad.)
Andy gently brought these concerns to our attention, and, as experienced historians do, Andy also did a bit of research to try to establish where the pictured incline was actually located.
Prompted by a well-known picture of coal cars on a barge on Lake Whatcom, some five miles southeast of Bellingham, Andy focused his research about 100 miles north of Lake Washington. Andy’s research pointed to the Blue Canyon Coal Mine on Lake Whatcom’s southeast shore. This incline was constructed circa 1891 and had much more of a drop (820 feet vs. 175 feet at Newcastle).
Needless to say, Andy’s input sparked much discussion among our group.
We had not really questioned the basic location of the incline up this point. Our work had mainly focused on finding the location of it “on the ground” today, which we were successful in doing and is not doubted. This led us, as a group, to exercise just enough confirmation bias to explain away things that didn’t quite fit:
The shoreline in the distance of the “looking down” photo wasn’t a 100% match for Mercer Island.
The steam donkey visible in the “looking up” photo was from a slightly-later era.
The length and steepness of the incline seemed too extreme for the topography in today’s south Bellevue.
Mike Intlekofer on our research team had raised the donkey concern previously but we had explained it away as a “pioneering use,” while we rationalized that the apparent length and steepness of the incline was due to the photographer using a wide-angle lens of some sort.
Grieving, our Seattle Coal and Transportation Co. research group got through the “denial” and “anger” phases fairly quickly. Then Harry Dursch on our team contacted retired Western Washington University geology professor George Mustoe, who, at first, questioned whether the images were at Blue Canyon — which gave us a brief sense of hope, as being in the “bargaining” phase often does.
The Blue Canyon incline, looking down. (Whatcom Museum X.4001)
We then reached out to photo archivist Jeff Jewell of the Whatcom Museum. Jeff sent us straight to “depression” because he was able to quickly provide us with several images of the Blue Canyon incline, including views we had never seen before, along with much-crisper versions of the images we had previously obtained from Eastside Heritage Center.
Another view of the Blue Canyon incline, looking down. (Whatcom Museum, 1996.10.3301)
The presence of the same four trees in the Eastside Heritage Center and Whatcom Museum “looking down” photos made it unquestionably clear that the photos were not taken along Lake Washington. (See A–D in the accompanying comparison image.) The same Whatcom Museum image also made it clear that we were not looking at the east shore of Mercer Island.
These two annotated crops make it clear that the images that Newcastle Historical Society members obtained from Eastside Heritage Center were of the Blue Canyon incline rather than at Newcastle. (Left: EHC L90.24.09; Right: WMPA X.4001. Graphic assistance: Noel Sherrard)
No historians worth their salt would deem a painful lesson of learning and enlightenment to be complete without arriving at “acceptance,” which we did in fairly short order, although some of us may or may not have drowned our sorrows first at the Mustard Seed Too in Newport Hills.
We have since embarked on the mighty challenge of locating a sketch, drawing, photo or painting of the Bensonville incline, the one the Seattle Coal and Transportation Co. built circa 1872. Unfortunately, the corporate records of Seattle Coal and Transportation Co. appear to have largely been discarded by a successor company, so sketches and drawings that must have existed at one time likely no longer exist.
What makes finding a photo a substantial undertaking is the state of photography in the 1870s. At that time, photographers used the “wet plate” method. This means:
Prior to making an exposure, the photographer needed to use a light-free environment to coat a glass plate with liquid emulsion.
That “wet” plate was then placed into a light-free magazine that was slid into the back of a wooden box camera.
The light block was removed and the camera’s lens cap pulled away to allow the image to be exposed onto the glass.
The light block was replaced, the magazine removed from the camera, taken back into the dark area, removed from the magazine and immediately immersed in liquid developer and fixer to create a glass plate negative from which prints could be made.
Needless to say, any photographer taking images of outdoor features needed a literal wagonload of equipment: an unwieldy camera and tripod, liquid chemicals (in fragile glass bottles) and some kind of tent or other means for a portable darkroom.
Given this complexity, it is understandable why most 1870s-era photographers chose instead to do portrait work inside of studios, with adjacent darkrooms and chemicals.
We had assumed that the extraordinary effort it would have required to make these images was due to the company documenting the large sums from its San Francisco owners and investors were being spent wisely.
We recognize that the odds of us finding images of the Bensonville incline are vanishingly remote, But we will keep looking. One never knows. Historical research is full of unexpectedly delightful discoveries!