Seattle Now & Then: “We Love the Junction!”

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THEN: Looking into West Seattle’s Junction and north on California Ave. SW to its intersection with SW Alaska Street in 1941. The Hamm Building, is seen above the light-colored car, and the Campbell Building is at right, behind the G.O. Guy Drugs sign.
THEN: Looking into West Seattle’s Junction and north on California Ave. SW to its intersection with SW Alaska Street in 1941. The Hamm Building, is seen above the light-colored car, and the Campbell Building is at right, behind the G.O. Guy Drugs sign.
NOW: The five leaders of the “We Love the Junction” Task Force (West Seattleites all) boldly interrupt the site of the “then” while adding homage to another crossing, that by the Beatles on London’s Abbey Road in 1969. These striders are (from left) Crystal Dean, Esther Armstrong, Cody Othoudt, Peder Nelson and Brad Chrisman.
NOW: The five leaders of the “We Love the Junction” Task Force (West Seattleites all) boldly interrupt the site of the “then” while adding homage to another crossing, that by the Beatles on London’s Abbey Road in 1969. These striders are (from left) Crystal Dean, Esther Armstrong, Cody Othoudt, Peder Nelson and Brad Chrisman.

To those who do not live in West Seattle, the “parts” that best represent it are, I imagine, a trio of large landmarks: Duwamish Head, Alki Point, and Lincoln Park. We might make it a quartet by adding Schmitz Park, although I doubt that many residents of Laurelhurst, Wallingford or Ballard have ever ventured into its virgin wilds.  These four destinations are, of course, very familiar to West

The West Seattle Ferry heading into the Duwamish Horizon, seen, most likely, from near the foot of Marion Street.
The West Seattle Ferry heading into the Duwamish Horizon, seen, most likely, from near the foot of Marion Street.
Tidying the founder's pylon near Alki Point for Seattle's centennial in 1951.
Tidying the founder’s pylon near Alki Point for Seattle’s centennial in 1951. (Courtesy, Museum of History & Industry)
Lincoln Park beyond the Fauntleroy Ferry Landing by A. Curtis.
Lincoln Park beyond the Fauntleroy Ferry Landing by A. Curtis.

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Seattleites, but I will further speculate that it is none of the four but rather the Junction that best represents the heart and soul of West Seattle, the grand peninsula at the southwest corner of Elliott Bay.  It is the Junction, extending in every direction from the intersection of SW Alaska Street and California Ave. SW, that is the best-loved corner in that corner.   

Looking west. from West Avalon Way to Fauntleroy Way SW in 1934, and heading for The Junction.
Looking west. from West Avalon Way to Fauntleroy Way SW in 1934, – approaching The Junction.

Here – in the featured photo at the top –  is the Junction on September 23, 1941.  With its low-rise profile and small-shop milieu, Jean Sherrard’s repeat is similar to the neighborhood recorded two months and two weeks before the United States entered the Second World War.  At that time a photographer on assignment for the Foster and Kleiser billboard company was working to promote the Junction neighborhood as a fine place to advertise.  Note the sign on the roof left-of-center – and in the other company signs collected here.  The photographer has aimed his or her camera north on California from midway between SW Edmunds Street and SW Alaska Street.  The four shining and parallel lines marking the pavement at the scene’s center are the surviving remnants of the Junction’s creation in 1907.  That year the Fauntleroy and West Seattle electric streetcar lines first converged: a junction.  It also was the year of West Seattle’s convergence with, or annexation into, Seattle. 

Heading west for the Junction on W. Alaska St. - another Foster and Kleiser billboard photo. 1939
Heading west for the Junction on W. Alaska St. – another Foster and Kleiser billboard photo. 1939

Because of its connections, the Junction soon grew into West Seattle’s commercial center. William (known as W.T.) Campbell, a skilled real-estate boomer, was largely responsible for the Junction’s rising above the sometimes wetland (it began, in places, as a swamp).  And it was Campbell who built the two two-story brick buildings that still hold half of the intersection: the Campbell Building (1918) at the northeast corner and the Hamm Building (1926) at the northwest corner.  It is these two ornate landmarks that one of the city’s most energetic heritage groups, the Southwest Seattle Historical Society, is nominating as worthy of preservation with a project it has named “We Love the Junction.” 

Why?  Clay Eals, the group’s executive director, explains, “We know that none of us will live forever. But landmarking the unique structures that for the past century have created an attractive and vibrant center for connection and collaboration, for friendly commerce, for appreciation of the visionaries who came before us, for the inexpressible sense of home, and for affirmation of our humanity – this is the stuff of identity, of legacy and of hope.”  We will add that a visit to loghousemuseum.info, the group’s website, will reveal with moving splendor this heritage group’s good works, including those of “We Love the Junction.”

FK-W.-Spokane-St.-lk-e-fm-near-26th--[Pigeon-Point]-R-176-Oct-1936-WEB

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WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, mes amis?  Yes Jean, Ron has returned to the blog a few of its more recent neighborhood insertions.  While was have quite a stack of ancient features that we might have lifted here, we will not for want of time, which must be given to our next contribution to the Times, also a West Seattle feature – one from Alki Point.  For coda we will now slip in a poem on California Street, which seems – to me – to date from about 1940.   I confess that I do not remember where I picked it up.  Perhaps a reader will know and enlighten us all.

THEN: The Gatewood Craftsman Lodge was built on a road, in a neighborhood, and near a public school all named for the developer Carlisle Gatewood, who also lived in the neighborhood. The three women posing in the third floor’s open windows are the Clark sisters, Jean, Dorothy and Peggy, members of the family that moved into the home in the late 1930s.

THEN: In 1852 many of Seattle’s first pioneers removed from Alki Point by dugout canoe for the deeper and safer harbor along the east shore of Elliott Bay (our central waterfront). About a half-century later any hope or expectation that the few survivors among these pioneers could readily visit Alki Beach and Point by land were fulfilled with the timber quays and bridges along Spokane Street. (Courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)

THEN: Included among the several detailed photos taken for the Bernards of their new and yet rustic Fir Lodge, was this one of the living room with its oversized fireplace and the piano on which Marie, their older daughter, learned to play well enough to concertize. (Courtesy Doris Nelson)

THEN: Looking southeast from above Alki Avenue, the Schmitz Park horizon is serrated by the oldest trees in the city. The five duplexes clustered on the right were built 1919-1921 by Ernest and Alberta Conklin. Ernest died in 1924, but Alberta continued to live there until well past 1932, the year this photograph was recorded. (Seattle Municipal Archives.)

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For “SO SHORT A TIME” a CALIFORNIA AVENUE CLOCKCourtesy, Southwest Seattle Historical Society

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Seattle Now & Then: Lake Union

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THEN: Samuel McKnight’s early 1890s panorama of Lake Union also looks north into most of Seattle’s seventeen square-mile annexation of 1891, when the city limits were pushed north from McGraw Street to 85th Street. Fremont, Edgewater, the future Wallingford, Latona, and Brooklyn (University District) were among the neighborhoods included. (Courtesy, Dan Kerlee)
THEN: Samuel McKnight’s early 1890s panorama of Lake Union also looks north into most of Seattle’s seventeen square-mile annexation of 1891, when the city limits were pushed north from McGraw Street to 85th Street. Fremont, Edgewater, the future Wallingford, Latona, and Brooklyn (University District) were among the neighborhoods included. (Courtesy, Dan Kerlee)
NOW: The atmospheric splendor of Jean Sherrard’s repeat was made with no plans but to get off the hydroplaning freeway and snap it.
NOW: The atmospheric splendor of Jean Sherrard’s repeat was made with no plans but to get off the hydroplaning freeway and snap it.

This week’s ‘Now & Then’ is a rare – and perhaps the only – occasion in the thirty-four years of this weekly feature to find a ‘then’ that is a harbinger of a ‘now.’  After Jean Sherrard photographed the latter a while ago, I kept it on my desk as a challenge to find a historical scene that foretokened it, or nearly so.  The omen recently reached us through the agency of Ron Edge, a frequent help to this feature.  Ron let us know that a mutual friend, the public historian and collector Dan Kerlee, had earlier shared this week’s ‘then’ with him.  The pioneer photographer recorded his shot within a soft shout of Jean’s storm-soaked capture. It will do nicely. 

Not so revealing but still another early Lake Union by McKnight. For this shot he moved a block or so to the north.
Not so revealing but still another early Lake Union by McKnight. For this shot he moved a block or two to the north.

Here’s Jean recollection.  “On a spring evening, driving north on I-5 from downtown, I found myself in a torrent – a quantity and quality of rainfall that occurs in the tropics, but rarely in Seattle. Buckets, cats and dogs, and Noah’s flood were the metaphors that came to mind. The windshield wipers pushed through liquid an inch thick, and everyone in their right mind had slowed to a crawl. Then, minutes before setting behind Queen Anne, the sun broke through the downpour, slicing away a few lower-lying clouds. I exited at Lakeview Drive and splashed up to a viewpoint overlooking the freeway. Like most natives, I don’t carry an umbrella, so I held a cardboard box over my head to protect my camera while I snapped a dozen shots of the city north and south, capturing Seattle in one of its rarer incarnations, under a sun-soaked deluge.”

Taken from a nearby prospect but somehat later by Major Millis.
Taken from a nearby prospect but somehat later by Major Millis.
Another early 90s look from Capitol Hill to the northwest over Lake Union. This print was found in a mid-western antique shop, and the photographer is not identified - as yet.
Another early 90s look from Capitol Hill to the northwest over Lake Union. This print was found in a mid-western antique shop, and the photographer is not identified – as yet.

Samuel F. McKnight, the photographer of the fortuitous early scene (at the top) operated a studio here for a few years before and after the city’s Great Fire of 1889.  His surviving work is not large.  The featured print looks north-northwest across a Lake Union only recently divested of its surrounding forest. 

A detail of the Eastlake park and beer garden lifted from the featured print.
A detail of the Eastlake park and beer garden lifted from the featured print.  The detail includes a blurred record of the southbound electric trolley on the far-right.

On this southeast corner of the lake, the line of Louisa and David Denny’s electric trolley to Brooklyn (University District) and Ravenna Park passes between the homes on Eastlake Ave., bottom-left, and a park/beer garden landscaped with a swimming beach and a screen of shade trees growing beside it.  This park with its windmill and tower was opened in 1886 as a lure to what was then the terminus of the horse-drawn Seattle Street Railway.  The little bay beyond the trees has since been mostly filled in.  The ships of NOAA, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, were long parked here, and the Lake Union Dry Docks, off-camera to the left in the featured photo at the top (but markedly shown three photos down), has been at work since 1919.  Fremont and Ballard, upper-left, are mottled with smoke and steam from their mills.

In our featured bay part of Woodrow Wilson's Wooden Fleet of unused WW1 vessels parked in the fresh water of Lake Union. [Courtesy, MOHAI]
Beyond our featured bay part of Woodrow Wilson’s Wooden Fleet of unused WW1 vessels parked in the fresh water of Lake Union. [Courtesy, MOHAI]
Another of our featured bay, undated but sometime after the 1932 opening of the Aurora Bridge.
Another of our featured bay, undated but sometime after the 1932 opening of the Aurora Bridge.
The Lake Union Dry Dock photographed from the City Light steam plant, or construction on it. Fairview Avenue runs north over our featured by from the far right and continues around the point, top-center.
The Lake Union Dry Dock photographed from the City Light steam plant, or construction on it. Fairview Avenue runs north over our featured bay from the far right and continues around the point, top-center.
First appeared in Pacific on July 25, 1993. Photo courtesy of the Washington State Museum, Tacoma.
First appeared in Pacific on July 25, 1993. Photo courtesy of the Washington State Museum, Tacoma.
Pivoting 90 degrees to the Southwest.
Pivoting 90 degrees to the Southwest.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, lads?  Surely – another necklace of links from more recent features unfolded by Ron and pulls in the ancient majority pulled by me.   Some visitors  – five or ten – may noticed that we have again failed to introduce our blog with a little and somewhat improvised video on the week’s featured photo.   In the midst of Jean’s play production and my organizing/editing some 1400 pages of “Keep Clam”  (a bio of Ivar Haglund), we are now and for a while so busy.   But at some point in this rejuvenating season we shall return with our playful – we hope – videos.

THEN: Both the grading on Belmont Avenue and the homes beside it are new in this “gift” to Capitol Hill taken from the family album of Major John Millis. (Courtesy of the Major’s grandchild Walter Millis and his son, a Seattle musician, Robert Millis.)

Then: Photographed from an upper story of the Ford Factory at Fairview Avenue and Valley Street, the evidence of Seattle's explosive boom years can be seen on every shore of Lake Union, ca. 1920. Courtesy of MOHAI

THEN: The home at bottom right looks across Madison Street (out of frame) to Central School. The cleared intersection of Spring Street and Seventh Avenue shows on the right.

THEN: A.J. McDonald’s panorama of Lake Union and its surrounds dates from the early 1890s. It was taken from First Hill, looking north from near the intersection of Terry Avenue and Union Street. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)

THEN: William O. McKay opened show rooms on Westlake in July of 1923. After fifty-seven years of selling Fords, the dealership turned to the cheaper and more efficient Subaru. Now reconstructed, the old Ford showroom awaits a new tenant.

THEN: The Cascade neighborhood, named for its public grade school (1894), now long gone, might have been better named for the Pontius family. Immigrants from Ohio, they purchased many of the forested acres north of Denny Way and east of Fairview Avenue.

THEN: The 1906-07 Gas Works at the north end of Lake Union went idle in 1956 when natural gas first reached Seattle by pipeline. In this photo, taken about fifteen years later, the Wallingford Peninsula is still home to the plant’s abandoned and “hanging gardens of metal.” (Courtesy: Rich Haag)

THEN: The now century-old Norway Hall at the corner of Boren Avenue and Virginia Street opened in 1915, on May 17, Norwegian Independence Day. (Courtesy, Nordic Heritage Museum)

THEN: sliver of the U.W. campus building called the Applied Physics Laboratory appears on the far right of this 1940 look east towards the U.W. campus from the N.E. 40th Street off-ramp from the University Bridge. While very little other than the enlarged laboratory survives in the fore and mid-grounds, much on the horizon of campus buildings and apartments still stand. (Courtesy, Genevieve McCoy)

THEN: From 1909 to the mid-late 1920s, the precipitous grade separation between the upper and lower parts of NE 40th Street west of 7th Ave. NE was faced with a timber wall. When the wall was removed, the higher part of NE 40th was shunted north, cutting into the lawns of the homes beside it. (Courtesy, Lawton Gowey)

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THEN: Werner Lenggenhager's recording of the old St. Vinnie's on Lake Union's southwest shore in the 1950s should remind a few readers of the joys that once were theirs while searching and picking in that exceedingly irregular place.

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THEN: From the Fremont Bridge, this subject looks northwest across the torrent that followed the washout of the Fremont Dam in the early afternoon of March 13, 1914. Part of the Bryant Lumber and Shingle Mill appears left-of-center. The north end of the Stone Way Trestle appears in the upper right corner. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)

THEN: Like violence in a classic Greek play, the carnage suggested by this 1934 crash scene on the then new Aurora speedway was kept off stage, either behind the city’s official photographer, or in the county morgue. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive.)

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First printed in Pacific, March 8, 1987
First printed in Pacific, March 8, 1987  Click to read.
Click to Enlarge and Read, please.
Click to Enlarge and Read, please.
First appeared in Pacific, Nov. 26, 2006.
First appeared in Pacific, Nov. 26, 2006.

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First appeared in Pacific, December 15, 1985.
First appeared in Pacific, December 15, 1985.

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Photography from on high on March 20, 1949, this aerial shows our featured bay on the right and much else. [Courtesy, Ron Edge]
Photography from on high on March 20, 1949, this aerial shows our featured bay on the right and much else. Click – maybe twice – to enlarge. [Courtesy, Ron Edge]
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First appeared in Pacific, November 28, 2004.
First appeared in Pacific, November 28, 2004.

Seattle Now & Then: West Woodland Neighbors

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THEN: This look west from the West Woodland neighborhood toward Ballard comes by way of the Museum of History and Industry, with some help from both Ron Edge and West Woodland historian Susan Pierce.
THEN: This look west from the West Woodland neighborhood toward Ballard comes by way of the Museum of History and Industry, with some help from both Ron Edge and West Woodland historian Susan Pierce.
NOW: Susan Pierce, posing with her son Andy in front of the 1890s Jensen home, researches and shares information about her West Woodland neighborhood. Pierce lives across the street from the pioneer home.
NOW: Susan Pierce, posing with her son Andy in front of the 1890s Jensen home, researches and shares information about her West Woodland neighborhood. Pierce lives across the street
from the pioneer home.

Here’s an early mist-enveloped glimpse looking west into Ballard from the West Woodland corner of 4th Avenue NW and NW 60th Street.  Turn around and the landscape rises sharply to the east, climbing Phinney Ridge to its Woodland Park summit. The homes of sawyers and other breadwinners have not as yet filled the blocks this far east from Ballard’s many lumber mills, although this West Woodland neighborhood has been nearly clear-cut and is waiting for buyers.   

A detail from the Jensen home photo feature. Thanks to Susan
A detail from the Jensen home photo feature. Thanks to MOHAI for the featured print and to Susan Pierce for the the quartet of mostly tax photos below.

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The modest and yet surely comfortable home, posing above with its residents at the center, dates from the 1890s. It was probably built by the carpenter-contractor Rasmus “Robert” Jensen, the man standing on the front porch with his wife Marie and most likely their daughter Anna. The lawn is fitted with a small orchard.  In a later photo the fruit trees have multiplied and taken charge of the acres surrounding the home.  These learned observations come by way of Susan Pierce. who is posing with her son Andy for Jean Sherrard in his recent repeat.  Nine years ago Susan and her husband Blake moved into the home that stands directly east across 4th Avenue from the pioneer Jensen abode.

Flip side for the featured Museum of History and Industry
Flip side for the featured Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI) print.

 

From their kitchen window the couple look out upon the Jensen homestead.  It is a prospect not far removed from that taken by, if we can believe the pencil note on the back of the original print (above), Broback Photo, an itinerate photographer from San Francisco. The original print, number 6446, is kept in the Museum of History and Industry’s “original photo file.”  It is from these files that many grapevines of heritage study sprout – including mine. (I began my study of Seattle’s pictorial history with visits to the MOHAI library forty-five years ago.)

This detail from the 1908 Baist Real Estate map reach from the west short of Green Lake on the right to the Jensen home at the northeast corner of 4th West and West 60th Street at its bottom-left corner.
This detail from the 1908 Baist Real Estate map reach from the west short of Green Lake on the right to the Jensen home at the northeast corner of “4th Ave. NW”  and “N. 60th Street” at its bottom-left corner.    It also surrounds the marked West Woodland Park Addition.    Phinney Ave., the ridge’s spine or summit, runs up-down thru the center of the detail.
Looking north on Phinney Avenue from 65th Street in 1937.
Looking north on Phinney Avenue from 65th Street in 1937.

With her son Andy’s birth three years ago, Susan was awakened not only to nurturing her boy but the western slope of Phinney Ridge as well.  These nourishing urges came together while taking Andy and her camera for perambulations around the neighborhood, and her research continued at home during Andy’s naps.  By now the baby is a boy who can distinguish between a gable and a bay window. Susan opened both a Facebook page and blog on the subject of her neighborhood’s history.  The results are admirable, and flourishing too, with over 600 users.  With the help of her neighbors this genial grapevine keeps on growing.  You may wish to review the fruits of these labors, either on the blog at https://vintagewestwoodland.wordpress.com/ or on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/vintagewestwoodland

Front page to the latest edition of Susan Pierce's blog, which you can enter by clicking the link above this illustration.
Front page to the latest edition of Susan Pierce’s blog, which you can enter by clicking the link above this illustration.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, mates?  First what we did NOT add – another video.  The play is the thing.  Jean has two more weeks of play production ahead and then we hope to resume the video treatments of these weekly features again.  Otherwise we have more neighborhood features, some recent and some rather old.   We start again with the more recent features pulled forward by Ron Edge.  Click them to open them.   We count “neighborhood” here as anything from Ballard to Green Lake, but still we have acted with restraint.

THEN: Midwife Alice Wood Ellis, far right, joins her mother and two children on the front lawn of their half-finished home in the East Green Lake neighborhood, ca. 1901. Courtesy Carol Solle

THEN: James Lee, for many years an official photographer for Seattle’s public works department, looks south over Ballard’s Salmon Bay a century ago. Queen Anne Hill marks the horizon, with a glimpse of Magnolia on the far right. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)

THEN: With his or her back to the original Ballard business district, an unnamed photographer looks southeast on Leary Way, most likely in 1936.

THEN: Ballard photographer Fred Peterson looks south-southeast on Ballard Avenue on February 3rd or 4th, 1916. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)

THEN: A Seattle Street and Sewer Department photographer recorded this scene in front of the nearly new City-County Building in 1918. The view looks west from 4th Avenue along a Jefferson Street vacated in this block except for the municipal trolley tracks. (Photo courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)

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Then: The thousands of skaters on Green Lake in this late January 1916 view could not have known that the skating would soon be over, one of the victims of the Big Snow of 1916. Courtesy Fairlook Antiques

THEN: Captioned Salmon Bay, 1887, this is most likely very near the eastern end of the bay where it was fed by Ross Creek, the Lake Union outlet. (Courtesy, Michael Maslan Vintage Posters and Photographs)

THEN: Built in 1910, Ballard’s big brick church on the northwest corner of 20th Avenue NW and NW 63rd Street lost the top of its soaring tower following the earthquake of Nov. 12, 1939.

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JOHN B. ALLEN ELEMENTARY SCHOOL

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GRADING ON NORTHWEST 57TH AVENUE

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WOODLAND PARK (Northwest Corner)

First appeared in Pacific July 29, 1990
First appeared in Pacific July 29, 1990

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SIMPSON BIBLE INSTITUTE

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First appeared in Pacific July 27, 2003.
First appeared in Pacific July 27, 2003.

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First appeared in Pacific November 10, 1996.
First appeared in Pacific November 10, 1996.

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First appeared in Pacific March 4, 2001
First appeared in Pacific March 4, 2001

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COLUMBIA LUTHERAN HOME

First appeared in Pacific on December 22, 1991.
First appeared in Pacific on December 22, 1991.
The Columbia Lutheran Home on Phinney Ridge, Courtesy of the Swedish Club
The Columbia Lutheran Home on Phinney Ridge, Courtesy of the Swedish Club

Seattle Now & Then: The Juneau Street Footbridge

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THEN: As the caption at the bottom allows, the Juneau Street footbridge opened for pedestrians on March 26,1915. It crossed the main track lines – not spurs – of three railroads and reached east from the Georgetown business district to a sprawling neighborhood of workers’ homes on the gentle slope of the Beacon Hill ridge. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives.)
THEN: As the caption at the bottom allows, the Juneau Street footbridge opened for pedestrians on March 26,1915. It crossed the main track lines – not spurs – of three railroads and reached east from the Georgetown business district to a sprawling neighborhood of workers’ homes on the gentle slope of the Beacon Hill ridge. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives.)
NOW: Had the approximately 200-foot long footbridge survived, it would have required a 300-foot extension to make it over the Interstate-5 Freeway.
NOW: Had the approximately 200-foot long footbridge survived, it would have required a 300-foot extension to make it over the Interstate-5 Freeway.

In 1904 when the Seattle Brewing and Malting Company had nearly completed the construction on their oversize plant in Georgetown, the citizens there, at least 300 of them brewery employees, voted to incorporate. The citizens took to politics largely to facilitate the sale of booze and associated pleasures – to create a town free of censors, prohibitionists, and all but the least acquisitive of tax collectors.  The brewery’s superintendent, John Mueller, won two of the new town’s most important positions: mayor and fire chief.  The third position, chief of police, was paid well. 

The pedestrian trestle still under construction, looking north along the tracks. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
The pedestrian trestle still under construction, looking north along the tracks. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)

Also in 1904, the brewery’s superintendent had a sincere talk with himself, the town’s mayor, about building, for the convenience of workers, a footbridge over the railroad tracks that separated the brewery from Beacon Hill, which is not so steep where it rises east of Georgetown. Although the footbridge was delayed for twenty years, the building of small workers’ homes to the east of the tracks was not.  Many of these survive.  On snuggly-fitted blocks 800 feet-long, upwards of thirty homes look at each other across streets, such as 16th and 17th Avenues South. 

The Juneau Street footbridge can be found crossing the tracks just below the subject's center. The brewery is on the left. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive and Ron Edge)
The Juneau Street footbridge can be found crossing the tracks just below the subject’s center. The brewery is on the left. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive and Ron Edge)
A detail from the 1936 aerial. The trestle is gone, although its "scar" can be detected upper-left. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
A detail from the 1936 aerial. The trestle is gone, although its “scar” can be detected upper-left. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)

When new in 1904, the 855-foot-long red brick brewery along Duwamish Avenue (Airport Way) was a few feet longer than St. Peter’s Cathedral in the Vatican.  It was billed by its boosters as the largest brewery west of the Mississippi, and by 1912, after some additions were made, including greater ice production and doubling the size of the bottling works, the Georgetown brewery was listed as the sixth largest in the world.

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Juneau Street Footbridge construction order, Dec. 9, 1914. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)
Juneau Street Footbridge construction order, Dec. 9, 1914. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archive)

Locally, Georgetown’s “cathedral to brewing” was described as the largest industrial establishment in the state in 1914, the year that plans for the Juneau Street footbridge were revived. The brewery covered the cost, about $3,300.  A C.H. Stratton won the contract on Dec. 10, 1914. Expecting to complete the construction in ninety days, he ran only a little late.  As the caption across the base of the featured print at the top notes, “Juneau S. footbridge Built 1914-5, Open 3-26-1915,” which may be the date, or close to it, this print was recorded.  A second caption at the bottom of the negative is too faded to include here.  It reads, “Secured by efforts of Dept. of P.W.” (Public Works).

This prohibition-era Sanborn Real Estate map shows the line of the foot bridge on the far right. The text, upper-right, explains that the brewery has been closed since Jan. 1, 1916, which was the start for Washington State's dry years.
This prohibition-era Sanborn Real Estate map shows the line of the foot bridge on the far right. The text, upper-right, explains that the brewery has been closed since Jan. 1, 1916, which was the start for Washington State’s dry years.   CLICK CLICK to ENLARGE

It was a different sort of “public works” that caused Georgetown’s growth and increasing optimism of the mid-teens to flounder.  In 1916, the anti-saloon warriors and Washington State’s effective teetotaling legislators won the war against intoxicants by imposing statewide prohibition.  Rainier Beer was moved to San Francisco. After midnight on Jan 1, 1916, bars were closed and all the jobs serving the imbibing culture – including those of hundreds of brewery and bar workers in Georgetown – were over.  National prohibition, beginning in 1920, prevailed for thirteen often-farcical years of abstinence, until the breweries and bars were reopened in 1933.  Months earlier, on Monday, Oct. 17, 1932, the deteriorating Juneau Street footbridge was closed to pedestrians and soon dismantled. 

The Lander Street footbridge was another rail-crossing the city built for pedestrians in 1915. This Municipal Archive photograph is dated April 23, 1915.
The Lander Street footbridge was another rail-crossing the city built for pedestrians in 1915. This Municipal Archive photograph is dated April 23, 1915.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, chief?   Not as much as we ordinarily contribute.  We will make up for it in about one month when our now-then on the Georgetown RR Station will be featured.  It is a neighbor within yards of the pedestrian bridge.  We will treat on both subjects – the trestle and the station – then in our video, which since late last year has introduced the blog.   The truth is that Jean is also busy producing/directing another play with his students at Hillside School (in Bellevue – see the link for the school on our front page) and I am happy to give more time to wrapping up “Keep Clam,” my long work-in-progress on an Ivar Haglund bio.  Meanwhile here on some neighborhood-related features, plus a few bridges, from the blog’s recent past, which Rod Edge has pulled and placed.

Louis-Hemrich-cartoon-w-Rainier-beer-WEB

THEN: Sometime before her first move from this brewery courtyard in 1912, Lady Rainier was moved by a freeze to these sensational effects. She did not turn her fountain off. (Courtesy of Frank & Margaret Fickeisen)

Looking southwest from Walker Street to the burning ruins.

Walter Ross Baumes Willcox, the architect who planned this 1911 Arboretum aqueduct, went on to design another city landmark mades of reinforced concrete and ornamental bricks: the 1913 Queen Anne Boulevard retaining wall. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)

https://sherrlock.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/bell-st-bridge-then-web1.jpg?w=474

THEN: The work of filling the tidelands south of King Street began in 1853 with the chips from Yesler’s sawmill. Here in the neighborhood of 9th Ave. S. (Airport Way) and Holgate Street, the tideland reclaiming and street regrading continue 70 years later in 1923. (Courtesy, Municipal Archive)

THEN: The new sub H-3 takes her inaugural baptism at the Seattle Construction and Dry Dock Company’s ways on Independence Day, 1913. (Courtesy, Ron Edge)

THEN: Part of the pond that here in 1946 filled much of the long block between Massachusetts and Holgate Streets and 8th Avenue S. and Airport Way. (Courtesy, Ron Edge)

Seattle Now & Then: The St. James Dome Collapse

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: Of the three largest Seattle roofs – the Alki Point Natatorium, a grandstand section of the U.W.’s Denny Field, and the St. James Cathedral dome - that crashed under the weight of the “Northwest Blizzard” in February 1916, the last was the grandest and probably loudest. It fell “with a crashing roar that was heard many blocks distant.” (Courtesy Catholic Archdiocese.)
THEN: Of the three largest Seattle roofs – the Alki Point Natatorium, a grandstand section of the U.W.’s Denny Field, and the St. James Cathedral dome – that crashed under the weight of the “Northwest Blizzard” in February 1916, the last was the grandest and probably loudest. It fell “with a crashing roar that was heard many blocks distant.” (Courtesy Catholic Archdiocese.)
NOW:
NOW: Jean Sherrard looks down through St. James Cathedral’s oculus, or ‘God’s Eye,’ during the special centennial service commemorating the dome’s collapse, which fortunately occurred on a Wednesday when no one was at church.
I confess to having first used this rousing photo of the snow-doomed-dome of St. James Cathedral for a Pacific feature on March 17, 1983.  (We will include it at the very bottom of what follows.)  It was, however, not that Sunday’s “THEN” photo, which was a portrait of the intact cathedral, but played instead a supporting although still dominating role in the feature.  Had Jean Sherrard been taking our ‘nows’ in 1983, it might have been different, for he embraces exposed heights that I shunned then and now.  

StJames-ContractoCannonWEB

John McCoy, past archdiocesan spokesman and author of A Still and Quiet Conscience, a biography of Seattle Archbishop Emeritus Raymond G. Hunthausen, first alerted us to the decision of the archdiocese to create a centennial commemoration of the dome’s fall.  I next called Maria Laughlin, Director of Stewardship at St. James, to ask about the possibility of repeating the hole-in-the-dome shot from the Big Snow of 1916 during the commemorative service. She asked, “How does Jean feel about heights?”  After I listed some of his ascents, she agreed to introduce Jean to Brenda Bellamy who would serve as his guide.   Here’s Jean’s recap of the climb.

VB john mccoy

“After reaching the rooftop, we clambered through a small exterior door leading into the ‘attic.’ To avoid interrupting the centennial service below, we crept along catwalks and ramps in near darkness. Squeezing between struts and support beams, we climbed several ladders to reach our final destination: the oculus, a twelve-foot- (I’m guessing here) wide circular opening directly above the altar of the cathedral.  My guide had already hoisted a snowmaking machine up onto the opposite side of the oculus, waiting for a dramatic, if necessarily truncated, recreation of the Big Snow of 1916 during the service.

St. James Cathedral
St. James Cathedral – ABOVE & BELOW the original altar, before the crash. [Mea Culpa: I made the same mistake three times – here and the two photos following – of describing them all as records of St. James before the 1916 flop.  They are rather the repaired St. James that followed the dome’s collapse.  We learned this from Joseph Adam, a helpful agent of St. James itself.  Thanks Joseph.  We [well I, Paul Dorpat] will not do it again .  Jean is clean and stays so.)  
The main altar and Sanctuary. The main altar was dovated by Mrs. Elizabeth Foss. The ***** and Foss altar railing ***** the gift of Mr. Patrick J. Henry in memory of his mother Michael J. Henry.
The main altar and Sanctuary.
The main altar was dovated by Mrs. Elizabeth Foss. The ***** and Foss altar railing ***** the gift of Mr. Patrick J. Henry in memory of his mother Michael J. Henry.

“I scooted around the upper outside edge of the oculus. While below us readers, quoting from newspaper accounts of the day, told the thrilling story of the dome’s collapse, I tried out different angles for our repeat. Particular culpability was ultimately reserved for the New York City engineers or fabricators who had assembled the dome’s flawed superstructure.  It was allowed that Seattle and the Good Lord were blameless.  At an appropriate moment, the lights dimmed and Brenda Bellamy switched on the snow-maker, sending a small blizzard of flakes down through the oculus and over the altar below. We then returned to the cathedral floor, where young Irish dancers were entertaining the congregants to the sound of pipes.”

Raised a Protestant, the centennial show has made me consider conversion.

St. James Cathedral - The original organ loft, before the crash.
St. James Cathedral – The original organ loft, before the crash.
The organ after the crash - looking west from the chancel.
The organ after the crash – looking west from the chancel.
The same (or nearly) point-of-view as the photograph above this one. This was taken in 2005 by Paul, weeks before Jean started to increasingly record the "nows" for this feature.
The same (or nearly) point-of-view as the photograph above this one. This was taken in 2005 by Paul mere weeks before Jean started to increasingly record the “nows” for this feature.  “What an improvement – and relief.”  [Paul quoted]

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, Fra Paul? Brother Ron?  Yes, and we can promise you and the readers more twin towers.  We start, again, with Ron’s pull of relevant features – including on Protestant (3rd up from the bottom of the “Ron Links”) mixed in with a few more Catholics –  posted here since we began doing these weekly duties.   Then we will attach a few features from the distant past – again relevant ones.  (And we will surely miss a few of the many First Hill features we have managed to assemble over the past thirty-four years.*)

THEN: A circa 1923 view looks south on Eighth Avenue over Pike Street, at bottom left.

Holy Names THEN

https://sherrlock.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/1-future-courthouse-site-1937-web1.jpg?w=1144&h=738

THEN: Looking east on University Street towards Ninth Avenue, ca. 1925, with the Normandie Apartments on the left.

THEN: Constructed in 1890 as the Seattle Fire Department’s first headquarters, these substantial four floors (counting the daylight basement) survived until replaced by Interstate Five in the 1960s. (photo by Frank Shaw)

https://sherrlock.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/zindorf-apts-714-7th-ave-mf1.jpg?w=735&h=923

THEN:

THEN: The city's regrading forces reached Sixth Avenue and Marion Street in 1914. A municipal photographer recorded this view on June 24. Soon after, the two structures left high here were lowered to the street. (Courtesy, Seattle Municipal Archives)

THEN: Harborview Hospital takes the horizon in this 1940 recording. That year, a hospital report noted that "the backwash of the depression" had overwhelmed the hospital's outpatient service for "the country's indigents who must return periodically for treatment." Built in 1931 to treat 100 cases a day, in 1939 the hospital "tries bravely to accommodate 700 to 800 visits a day."

THEN: Looking west on Madison Street from Seventh Avenue circa 1909. (Courtesy, Washington State Museum, Tacoma)

sorrento-late-construction-WEB

 ======

Saint-Edwards-then-web

St.-Edwards-Now-WEB

First appeared in Pacific,
First appeared in Pacific, November 7, 2004

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A-St.-Anne-on-Lee-St.-web

First appeared in Pacific, November 26, 1995.
First appeared in Pacific, November 26, 1995.

x St. Anne's now WEB

=====

_Benedict-wallingford-web

St. Benedict's Wurst for 2011. CLICK TO ENLARGE
St. Benedict’s Wurst for 2011. CLICK TO ENLARGE

=====

First appeared in Pacific, September 2, 2001.
First appeared in Pacific, September 2, 2001.

Outcropping-of-Bad-Blood-ST-1904-web

Blood-and-Hearing-test,-WEB

======

St. Josephs when nearly new. 18th and Aloha.
St. Josephs when nearly new. 18th and Aloha.

St.-Josephs-on-Aloha-now

First appeared in Pacific, April 13, 1999.
First appeared in Pacific, April 18, 1999.
St. Joseph's interior
St. Joseph’s interior

=======

1907 – 2007

Saint James 1907 dedication, looking southeast thru the intersection of 9th Avenue and Marion Street.
Saint James 1907 dedication, looking southeast thru the intersection of 9th
Avenue and Marion Street.
Temporary illuminated date for the 2007 Saint James Centennial.
Temporary illuminated date for the 2007 Saint James Centennial.

======

THE DAY THE DOME FELL

From the Seattle Times for March 27, 1983

CLICK TWICE TO ENLARGE
CLICK TWICE TO ENLARGE

Seattle Now & Then: Albert Braun’s Brewery in Georgetown

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: Extended thanks to Ron Edge and his maps and aerials for properly siting Braun’s Brewery, to collector Dan Kerlee for letting us use this company portrait, and to Gary Flynn, the Bellingham-based breweriana collector and brewery historian.
THEN: Extended thanks to Ron Edge and his maps and aerials for properly siting Braun’s Brewery, to collector Dan Kerlee for letting us use this company portrait, and to Gary Flynn, the Bellingham-based breweriana collector and brewery historian.
NOW: Because of Boeing Field restrictions, Jean Sherrard’s “now” was taken from a prospect closer to the line-up of brewery employees and their families in the “then,” than to the unidentified historical photographer.
NOW: Because of Boeing Field restrictions, Jean Sherrard’s “now” was taken from a prospect closer to the line-up of brewery employees and their families in the “then,” than to the unidentified historical photographer.

Albert Braun arrived from Iowa soon after Seattle’s Great Fire of 1889.  Or perhaps before.  I we can trust the photo published below, Braun was here on the day of the fire and enjoying come cold beers at the beer garden that was then open at Pike Street and Front Street (First Avenue).  The caption to his piece of Seattle Times nostalgia from 1934 makes some spirited claims.  

The man sitting far left is identified as Albert Braun in this March 8, 1934 citizen-shared clipping from The Seattle Times.
The man sitting far left is identified as Albert Braun in this March 8, 1934 citizen-shared clipping from The Seattle Times.  The caption is worth reading in toto.  

Whether before the Great First or after it, within a year-and-a-half of the young German immigrant’s arrival here, with financial help from local and mid-western investors, Albert Braun built this brewery about two miles south of Georgetown.  The then still serpentine Duwamish River is hidden behind the brewery.  Directly across the river, on its west side and also hidden, was the neighboring community of South Park.  Braun’s name is emblazoned on the brewery’s east façade, and so it was best read from the ridge of Beacon Hill and from the trains on the mainline railway tracks below.

Well into the 20th Century when the reproduction of photographs in publications left much to be desired, it was typical for businesses of size to use litho depictions of their homes and plants. This one of Braun's brewery is peculiar. I includes structures that are not in the photo at the top but almost surely would have been include had they be build by the time of its recording. Also the litho puts Mount Rainier - if that is what it is - to the northwest of the brewery when it was the opposite. But then (and now) who is checking?
Well into the 20th Century when the reproduction of photographs in publications left much to be desired, it was typical for businesses of size to use litho depictions of their homes and plants. This one of Braun’s brewery is peculiar. It includes structures (far left) that are not in the photo at the top but almost surely would have been include had they been built by the time of its recording. Also the litho puts Mount Rainier – if that is what it is – to the northwest of the brewery when it was the opposite. But then (and now) who is checking?  (Courtesy, Gary Flynn)

The brewing began here mid-December 1890, and the brewery’s primary brands, Braun’s Beer, Columbia Beer, and Standard Beer, reached their markets late in March of 1891.  The 1893 Sanborn Fire Insurance map for Seattle includes a footprint of the plant that is faithful to this undated photograph.  The map’s legend notes that the buildings were “substantial, painted in and outside” with “electric lights and lanterns” and that a “watchman lives on the premises.”  It also reveals, surprisingly, that the brewery was “not in operation” since July of that year. What happened?

A detail of the 1893 Sanborn map is printed in the bottom-right corner. Running left-right through the middle of the montage is a detail from the 1912 Baist Real Estate Map, and on the top is a detail from the current GoogleEarth space shot of the old brewery site. (Thanks to Ron Edge for assembling this.)
A detail of the 1893 Sanborn map is printed in the bottom-left corner. Running left-right through the middle of the montage is a detail from the 1912 Baist Real Estate Map, and on the top is a detail from the current GoogleEarth space shot of the old brewery site. (Thanks to Ron Edge for assembling this.)  CLICK to ENLARGE

The economic panic of 1893 closed many businesses and inspired a few partnerships, too.  Braun’s principle shareholders partnered his plant with two other big beer producers, the Claussen Sweeney and Bay View breweries, to form the Seattle Brewing and Malting Co.  Braun’s landmark was then designated as “Albert Braun’s Branch.”  Of the three partnering breweries, this was the most remote, and it was largely for that reason – combine with the year’s panic – , it seems, that it was soon closed.  The upset Braun soon resigned, sold most of his interests in the partnership, and relocated in Rock Island, Illinois.  There, in quick succession – or simultaneously – he started work on a new brewery and fell in love, but with tragic results.  Early in 1895 (or late in 1894, depending) Albert Braun committed suicide, reportedly “over a love affair.”  

Pulled from the Seattle Times for October 1, 1899.
Pulled from the Seattle Times for October 1, 1899.

For six years this tidy Braun brewery beside the Duwamish River stood like a museum to brewing, but without tours.  Practically all the machinery was intact, from its kettles to its ice plant, until the early morning of Sept 30, 1899, when The Seattle Times reported “the nighthawks who were just making their way home and the milkmen, butchers and other early risers were certain that the City of Tacoma was surely being burned down.”  They were mistaken. It was Braun’s five-story brewery that was reduced to smoldering embers.  The plant’s watchman had failed that night to engage the sprinkler system that was connected to the tank at the top of the five-story brewery. The eventually flame-engulfed tank, filled with 65,000 gallons of river water, must have made a big splash. 

A clip pulled from The Seattle Times for August 11, 1900.
A clip pulled from The Seattle Times for August 11, 1900.

There is at least a hint that the brewery grounds were put to good use following the fire.  The Times for August 11, 1900, reports that the teachers of the South Park Methodist Episcopalian Sunday School took their classes “Out for a holiday on the banks of the beautiful Duwamish River, (and for) a pleasant ride over the river to the Albert Braun picnic grounds.” 

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, lads?  Here’s Lady Rainier to cheer you on!

Cheers, Santé, Prost, and Skål!
Cheers, Santé, Prost, and Skål!

Yup.  Ron has found a few links that prowl the territory – widely conceived – and we have reached far for four or five more.

Looking southwest from Walker Street to the burning ruins.

THEN: Sometime before her first move from this brewery courtyard in 1912, Lady Rainier was moved by a freeze to these sensational effects. She did not turn her fountain off. (Courtesy of Frank & Margaret Fickeisen)

THEN: The work of filling the tidelands south of King Street began in 1853 with the chips from Yesler’s sawmill. Here in the neighborhood of 9th Ave. S. (Airport Way) and Holgate Street, the tideland reclaiming and street regrading continue 70 years later in 1923. (Courtesy, Municipal Archive)

THEN: Part of the pond that here in 1946 filled much of the long block between Massachusetts and Holgate Streets and 8th Avenue S. and Airport Way. (Courtesy, Ron Edge)

THEN: In 1852 many of Seattle’s first pioneers removed from Alki Point by dugout canoe for the deeper and safer harbor along the east shore of Elliott Bay (our central waterfront). About a half-century later any hope or expectation that the few survivors among these pioneers could readily visit Alki Beach and Point by land were fulfilled with the timber quays and bridges along Spokane Street. (Courtesy Seattle Municipal Archive)

 =======

One of the Hemrich brothers
One of the Hemrich brothers

Rainier-Beer-Plant-,-bayview-web

First appeared in Pacific January 17, 1988. Directly below this photo is another of the same Bayview site, but earlier.
First appeared in Pacific January 17, 1988. Directly below this photo is another of the same Bayview site, but earlier.
Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry
Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry
The same Bayview site - later.
The same Bayview site – later.
The Rainier Beer brewery during its years of service to Tully's.
The Rainier Beer brewery during its years of service to Tully’s.
Rainier Brewery reclaimed
Rainier Brewery reclaimed
First appeared in Pacific on
First appeared in Pacific on  August 15, 1999.

2.-Rainier-Beer-billboard-'Now-Vigor-&-Strength-in-Every-Drop'WEB

One of the millions of barrels shipped and a few of the plants hundreds of employees.
One of the millions of barrels shipped and a few of the plants hundreds of employees.
Seattle Brewing and Malting Georgetown plant seen looking southwest over main line railroad tracks.
Seattle Brewing and Malting Co.’s Georgetown plant seen looking southwest over main line railroad tracks.
Georgetown's abandoned brewery looking southeast over Airport Way. (Jean Sherrard - about a dozen years ago)
Georgetown’s spiritless cathedral  looking southeast over Airport Way. (Jean Sherrard – about a dozen  years ago)
A short stack of saloon advertisements pulled from the Dispatch for October 15, 1877.
A short stack of saloon advertisements pulled from the Dispatch for October 15, 1877.
Joseph Butterfield and Martin Schmeig opened this brewery at the watefrtont foot of Columbia Street, the southwest corner, in 1865. It was not Seattle's earliest brewery, but nearly. And it was the largest of the early breweries - those before the Bayview Brewery.
Joseph Butterfield and Martin Schmeig opened this brewery at the watefrtont foot of Columbia Street, the southwest corner, in 1865. It was not Seattle’s earliest brewery, but nearly. And it was the largest of the early breweries – those before the Bayview Brewery.
Looking east from the elbowed end of Yesler's Wharf to the waterfront at Columbia Street in 1878. The brewery is behind the first Colman Dock, far right. Columbia Street climbs First Hill from Front Street. In the foreground some of Henry Yesler's logs float in his mill pond.
Looking east from the elbowed end of Yesler’s Wharf to the waterfront at Columbia Street in 1878. The brewery is behind the first Colman Dock, far right. Columbia Street climbs First Hill from Front Street. In the foreground some of Henry Yesler’s logs float in his mill pond.

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BEFORE PROHIBITION

Beer on board - beer everywhere.
Beer on board – beer everywhere.

JUST 45 DRINKING DAYS LEFT (A Collection of Pioneer Square neighborhood saloon life before they closed in Washington State on the first day of 1916.   Jean notices that here no women are to be found.  The photographer for these 5×7 glass plates has not been identified eiher.)

CLICK TO ENLARGE

glass---45-drinking-days-left-web

Bar-#5-c10glass--web

Bar#4-c10Glass-seattle-web

glas-bar-seattle-web

glass-bar-no.-2-web-

glass-bar-interio-#1-web

PROHIBITION

Confiscated hooch
Confiscated hooch
The Seattle Times registers the public ambivalence towards the prohibition with a pole and prizes! A clip from March 7, 1926, still seven years before the end of it.
The Seattle Times registers the public ambivalence towards the prohibition with a poll and prizes on “the prohibition question.!”   A clip from March 7, 1926, still seven years before the end of it.

AFTER PROHIBITION

Tavern-Counter-w-Rheinlander-beer-signs-and-attendants-web

Pilsener-Pale-Beere-truck-and-trailer-web

FK-HAPPY-PEPPY-BEER-#1-web

Jean makes note of the absence of men.
Jean notes the absence of men.

=====

Thanks to Gary Flynn the Bellingham-based “brewerian” for his writing on Braun’s brewery and many others.   In 2010 Flynn received the American Breweriana Association’s Excellence in Literature award for “Outstanding achievement in supporting the objectives of ABA and the Breweriana community.”

Jean's caption "Either the dark Demon Rum or a member of the Anti-Saloon League rides his ass to the bar."
Jean’s caption “Either the dark Demon Rum or a member of the Anti-Saloon League rides his ass to the bar.”
A Rainier Beer advertisement with a typical topographical mistake. The Bailey Peninsula (Seward Park) is repeatedly imagined and depicted as an island in its most conventional view from the Mount Baker neighborhood ridge above Lake Washington.
A Rainier Beer advertisement with a typical topographical mistake. The Bailey Peninsula (Seward Park) is repeatedly imagined and depicted as an island in its most conventional composition from the Mount Baker neighborhood ridge above Lake Washington.

Seattle Now & Then: Seward Street, Juneau, Alaska

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: Photographer Frank LaRoche arrived in Seattle a few weeks after its Great Fire of 1889. Through the 1890s he made scores of round-trips to the Klondike, including this visit to the Juneau intersection of Seward Avenue and Front Street. (Museum of History and Industry)
THEN: Photographer Frank LaRoche arrived in Seattle a few weeks after its Great Fire of 1889. Through the 1890s he made scores of round-trips to the Klondike, including this visit to the Juneau intersection of Seward Avenue and Front Street. (Museum of History and Industry)
NOW: Through the nearly 120 years that separate this week’s now and then, the Mount Juneau horizon has kept its same recognizable profile. Four-thousand feet up and about seven miles north-northeast rests the Juneau Icefield. It feeds about thirty glaciers, including the Mendenhall, which comes to within a dozen miles of this Juneau intersection. By Seattle analogy, that is roughly the distance between West Point at Discovery Park to Bellevue’s Meydenbauer Bay.
NOW: Through the nearly 120 years that separate this week’s now and then, the Mount Juneau horizon has kept its same recognizable profile. Four-thousand feet up and about seven miles north-northeast rests the Juneau Icefield. It feeds about thirty glaciers, including the Mendenhall, which comes to within a dozen miles of this Juneau intersection. By Seattle analogy, that is roughly the distance between West Point at Discovery Park to Bellevue’s Meydenbauer Bay.
Juneau with its namesake mountain above it. By LaRoche (Courtesy of Michael Maslan)
Juneau with its namesake mountain above it. By LaRoche (Courtesy of Michael Maslan)
Seward Street is in there somewhere.
Seward Street is in there somewhere.

Through our now thirty-four years of “weekly repeating,” the farthest we have strayed from Seattle’s Pioneer Square and/or the PacificNW offices has been to Spokane.  But this Sunday we have stepped as far as Juneau, Alaska’s capital. Jean Sherrard, this feature’s regular “repeater” for nearly a decade, has found it exhilarating.   Here’s Jean.

Dated 1916, a winter harbor scene at Juneau probably a bit colder than Jean's and Karen's a century later.
Dated 1916, a winter harbor scene at Juneau probably a bit colder than Jean’s and Karen’s a century later.

“Karen and I flew up to Juneau, a two-hour flight, on MLK Jr. weekend to visit our friends Robin Walz and Carol Prentice. Now we highly recommend Juneau in winter. It’s a small town of 30,000 people, nestled in the sea-level valley between impassible mountains (note: a little local ribbing at the expense of summer tourists, who stepping off the big ships and seeing snow, ask, “What’s the elevation of Juneau?”). During the chilly off-season the landscape is gorgeous and tourist-free. On Sunday morning we headed downtown to take this repeat of Frank LaRoche’s Gold Rush Seward Street. Robin and Carol, Karen, and some friendly locals crossed the street to enliven the photo, and then we adjourned to a table in the locally owned Heritage Coffee Company on the left – not too long ago a McDonald’s franchise.”

In the Video at the top, Robin locates this look across Juneau as near where the cruise ships now slip in.
In the Video at the top, Robin locates this look across Juneau as near where the cruise ships now slip in.
The same profile (in part) of Mount Juneau, upper-right, can be found in the wider LaRoche record printed above this one by "Winter and Pond." .
The same profile (in part) of Mount Juneau, upper-right, can be found in the wider LaRoche record printed above this one by “Winter and Pond.” .

Actually, the only snow we can find in Jean’s January repeat is high above where Seward Street is stopped at the steep foot of Mt. Juneau. The snow this Sunday is mostly hidden in the forest.  In LaRoche’s “then,” (below the video at the top)  photographed sometime in the late 1890s, the corner for Jean’s coffee retreat on the left is occupied in part by The New York Store, where any anxious argonaut heading for the gold fields was assured by a mural-sized sign that he could get “cheap . . .the best men’s heavy clothing, underwear, rubber boots, etc.” 

In Juneau - once upon a time - but not a likely retreat for tourists or pilgrims.
In Juneau – once upon a time – but not a likely retreat for Jean and Karen or other tourists and pilgrims.

Other outfitters, tobacco stores, bars, chop and oyster houses, and cheap lodgings covered most of the commerce done on Seward Street during the Rush.  Now jewelers, galleries, and souvenir shops waiting on what Robin Walz figures are the “up to fifteen- thousand passengers and crew who are set ashore from four-to-five cruise ships every day from April into October.”  Alaskan Heritage is an alternative to pricey knick-knacks on Seward Street.  The blue and pink banner hanging from the corner light standard on the right lists some of the attractions north of here at Front Street on Seward: “Governor’s House, Juneau City Museum, State Capital (and) St. Nicholas Church.”

A Juneau church, although not St. Nicholas, and lost. Presbyterian.
A Juneau church, although not St. Nicholas.  Now  lost and Presbyterian.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, pardners?  Sure Jean, and please mix with what you have written just above a few of the other shots from your visit to Juneau and its surrounds, although I suspect that some of those will be in the video at the top.  (What a labor it must have been to cut back Robbin and my dialogue from forty-plus minutes to twenty-something.)

Hi Paul, Jean here, with a few shots from Juneau and surrounds:

Upon arrival, Robin and Carol drove us out to catch the last rays of sun on the Mendenhall Glacier
Upon arrival, Robin and Carol drove us out to catch the last rays of sun on the Mendenhall Glacier
Just a bit closer...
Just a bit closer…
The waterfall pouring into Mendenhall Lake from the vast snowfield above...
The waterfall pouring into Mendenhall Lake from the vast snowfield above…
Mendenhall lake after sunset - click to zoom into the blue glacial ice circled by ice skaters
Mendenhall lake after sunset – click to zoom into the blue glacial ice circled by ice skaters
The old Russian church in Juneau
The old Russian church in Juneau
A citizen of Juneau contemplates one of many stair climbs leading out of the central business district
A citizen of Juneau contemplates one of many stair climbs leading out of the central business district
Juneau sheet metal fabricator with a unique hobby
Juneau sheet metal fabricator with a unique hobby
A retreat/shrine to St. Therese of Lisieux - nestled in a lovely islet forest
A retreat/shrine to St. Therese of Lisieux – nestled in a lovely islet forest
A view of the islet from the shrine's maze
A view of the islet from the shrine’s maze
Sunset from the shrine
Sunset from the shrine
flight home
flight home

Immediately below are ten Edge-Links connected by Ron Edge to former blog features that are more-or-less relevant to this week’s subject.  Under these  links we will attach the several Alaska photos – most of them by LaRoche, one of the gold rush photographers from Seattle – that appear in the video at the top.  The bottom will round-out  – so to speak – with a few more by now nearly ancient now-and-then features that relate to the allures of Alaska.

THEN: During the few years of the Klondike Gold Rush, the streets of Seattle’s business district were crowded with outfitters selling well-packed foods and gear to thousands of traveling men heading north to strike it rich – they imagined. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)

THEN: Through its two decades — 1892 to 1913 — at the northeast corner of Cherry Street and Third Avenue, the Seattle Theatre was one of the classiest Seattle venues for legitimate theater as well as variety/vaudeville

THEN: Above Lake Washington’s Union Bay the Hoo-Hoo Building on the left and the Bastion facsimile on the right, were both regional departures from the classical beau arts style, the 1909 AYPE’s architectural commonplace. Courtesy John Cooper

THEN: For the four-plus months of the 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition, the center of commerce and pedestrian energy on University Way moved two blocks south from University Station on Northeast 42nd Street to here, Northeast 40th Street, at left.

THEN: The new sub H-3 takes her inaugural baptism at the Seattle Construction and Dry Dock Company’s ways on Independence Day, 1913. (Courtesy, Ron Edge)

THEN: The driver, lower left, leads his team towards First Avenue up a planked incline on Madison Street. (Courtesy MOHAI)

THEN: From boxcars and rooftops to the planks of Railroad Avenue, excitement builds for the ceremonial re-enactment of the S.S.Portland’s 1897 landing with its “ton of gold” on the Seattle waterfront, the city’s first Golden Potlatch Celebration. [Courtesy, Michael Maslan]

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ALASKA GOLD RUSH ERA PHOTOS (seen and described in the video at the top)

As explained in the video by Robbin, these Alaskan's - Eskimos - are farther north of Juneau than Seattle is south of it.
As explained in the video by Robin, these Alaskan’s – Eskimos – are farther north of Juneau than Seattle is south of it.   AK is  a big sky country larger than Texas, and much larger than Montana.
As taught by Robin Metlakahtla is the last stop in the Alaska panhandle before crossing south into British Columbia.
As taught by Robin, Metlakahtla is the last stop in the Alaska panhandle before crossing south into British Columbia.
Another glacier - the Muir in Alaska's Glacier Bay - about thirty-plus miles north of Juneau. Like a drive to Everett.
Another glacier – the Muir in Alaska’s Glacier Bay – about thirty-plus miles north of Juneau. Like a drive to Everett.

 

The strange and/or unique Chilkoot Pass, the highest step in the trek from salt water to the Yukon River and its gilded dreams of 1897-8.
The strange and/or unique Chilkoot Pass, the highest step in the trek from salt water  of Lynn Canal to the Yukon River and its gilded dreams of 1897-8.
The later and easier way over that ridge.
The later and easier way over that ridge.
The harbor that we noted in the video as unidentified. Now Robin has pegged it. It is Skagway, and the LaRoche that follows is of Skagway's Broadway. Skagway, I believe, is where you caught the train but now a bus or rent a car..
The harbor that we noted in the video as unidentified. Now Robin has pegged it. It is Skagway, and the LaRoche that follows is of Skagway’s Broadway. Skagway, I believe, is where you caught the train but now a bus or rent a car..
Skagway's Broadway during the warmer cruising months a mad-way of Gold Rush nostalgia and boardwalk kitsch.
Skagway’s Broadway during the warmer cruising months a mad-way of Gold Rush nostalgia and boardwalk kitsch.

FOUR FROM SITKA (as described in the Video at the Top.)

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a Sitka,-Greek-Orthodox,-interior-WEB

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The last of LaRoche's Alaska included here.
The last of LaRoche’s Alaska included here.

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To ENLARGE the above, Click it – twice.

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Click to Enlarge!
Click to Enlarge!

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AYP-House-Upside-Down---[12_28_2003]

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First appeared in Pacific on April 29, 2001.
First appeared in Pacific on April 29, 2001.

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CLICK TWICE to ENLARGE
CLICK TWICE to ENLARGE

Now & Then here and now

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