THEN1: Thelina Wordhoff (left) and Bess Brinkley rehearse for the Junior League of Seattle’s first Follies, presented May 3-5, 1926, at the Metropolitan Theatre (site of today’s north drive-through of the Fairmont Olympic Hotel downtown). The revue included musical numbers, dances and short sketches modeled after the Ziegfeld Follies on Broadway in New York. (Courtesy Junior League of Seattle)NOW1: Anisa Ishida (left), past president, and Jen Siems, president, emulate the 1926 dancers projected behind them while surrounded by 88 other members at a Dec. 9 general meeting of the Junior League of Seattle at the downtown Nordstrom. For more info on the organization, visit JuniorLeagueSeattle.org. (Jean Sherrard)
Published in The Seattle Times online on Jan. 18, 2024
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on Jan. 21, 2024
League takes no junior role in supporting women and social causes
By Clay Eals
Digging into the origin of the Junior League of Seattle demands a contemporary vocabulary lesson.
The operative word for members 100 years ago, when the league began, was “debutantes.” It’s a term not commonplace today, but in the Roaring Twenties it often turned up in headlines and news stories. No doubt readers readily understood it to mean young women entering fashionable society.
The same dynamic applies for another vintage descriptor for members: “younger matrons and girls,” an allusion to youthful women, married and not.
Moreover, the derivation of the organizational name was, and remains, elusive. Junior to what? National and local sources reveal no specific historical rationale other than members’ budding ages.
“It’s funny the name has never changed,” says Maria Mackey, past Seattle president who triggered the league’s upcoming centennial exhibit at the Museum of History & Industry.
Nevertheless, the name persisted, from the founding of the first Junior League, in 1901 in New York, to the Seattle league’s formal inception in 1924, to the present day, when 291 such leagues with 140,000 members operate throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico and the UK.
In Seattle as elsewhere, Junior League has pursued a steadfastly two-pronged path — a women’s social forum and training ground for a variety of professional and personal pursuits, coupled with an investment of time and money for social-welfare projects, with and without fanfare.
NOW2: Barbara Earl Thomas’ “Broken Landscape,” 1990, egg tempera on paper, from the Northwest Art Project of the Junior League of Seattle, reflects the artistic focus of the league’s centennial exhibit, which opens Feb. 3 at the Museum of History & Industry. The collection reaches 18,000 King County students each year. (Courtesy Junior League of Seattle)
Local league projects have ranged widely, all fueled by altruism. In the 1920s, the league opened a day nursery and operated the only stereotyping machine in the western U.S. to mass-produce metal Braille language plates for the blind. Intervening years helped launch what became Childhaven family services, along with endeavors in youth literacy and the sharing with schoolchildren of traveling works by diverse Northwest artists.
THEN2: In 1960, Seattle Junior Leaguers offer a hearty welcome to the organization’s Wise Penny thrift shop at 524 N. Broadway on Capitol Hill. (Courtesy Junior League of Seattle)
Flashy events to inspire financial contributions are a Junior League tradition. Its first Follies in 1926 featured “a riot of song and dance,” with seats going for 50 cents to $3. In the mid-20th century, the league operated the Wise Penny thrift shop on Capitol Hill. Today, the league raises money via “Touch a Truck,” a kids’ activity with real fire engines and ambulances. The organization’s latest Gala, on Nov. 20, raised $263,000.
While the league once re-labeled active members as “sustainers” (dues-paying only) as they reached 40, the age distinction evaporated more recently, says Jen Siems, president. Members range from new moms to seasoned professionals. “All the different stages of women’s life cycle,” Siems says, “we’re there to support.”
Accordingly, Mackey, recently retired from Vulcan, adds that Junior League “taught me the good part of how the city works” and “gave me my life, really.”
WEB EXTRAS
Thanks to Kay Ray and to Kelsey Novick, Wendy Malloy, Julianne Kidder and Devorah Romanek of the Museum of History & Industry, and especially Jen Siems and Maria Mackey of the Junior League of Seattle for their invaluable help with this installment!
Program cover for 1926 Junior League of Seattle Follies. (Courtesy Junior League of Seattle)NOW: Kenneth Callahan’s “Crystalline World,” 1950s, oil on canvas, from the Northwest Art Project of the Junior League of Seattle, reflects the artistic focus of the league’s centennial exhibit, which opens Feb. 3 at the Museum of History & Industry. The collection reaches 18,000 King County students each year. (Courtesy Junior League of Seattle)June 2, 1907, New York Times.June 4, 1916, Seattle Times, p39.Nov. 4, 1917, Seattle Times, p4.Oct. 7, 1923, Seattle Times, p33.Nov. 16, 1923, Seattle Times, p14.Nov. 18, 1923, Seattle Times, p35.Nov. 25, 1923, Seattle Times, p40.March 25, 1926, Seattle Times, p16.April 11, 1926, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p45.April 11, 1926, Seattle Times, p21.April 30, 1926, Seattle Times, p11.May 2, 1926, Seattle Times, p68.May 9, 1926, Seattle Times, p63.Dec. 19, 1934, New York Times.Feb. 14, 1960, Seattle Times, p101.Feb. 14, 1960, Seattle Times, p103.Feb. 16, 1960, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p10.April 7, 1960, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p33.June 10, 1960, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, p22.
A few years ago, I asked Paul Dorpat, Seattle Now & Then founder and noted raconteur, if he knew any ghost stories. He offered up the outlines of a haunted tale told by his dad, the Rev. Theodore Dorpat, about a man trapped inside a terrifying box threatened by another box. I adapted it, filling in a few blanks.
Here it is, for those in Xmas doldrums or just exhausted by the exertions of the day! Click on the photo to begin…
Jean cracks up at an observation by Paul on Nov. 25, 2018, at a book event at the Fremont Library, sponsored by the Fremont and Queen Anne historical societies
Saturday, December 8, 2018: 1 PM, Tukwila Historical Society Heritage and Cultural Center, 14475 59th Ave S
Paul points out an audience member who attended the 1968 Sky River Rock Festival and Lighter Than Air Fair, which Paul organized, during a book event on Nov. 27, 2018, at Horizon House. Jean (standing) and Clay Eals, the book’s editor, look on.
Click here to see all nine remaining events through mid-December. The events are free, and you have the opportunity to purchase the book and have it personally inscribed by Paul and Jean.
Paul Dorpat and Jean Sherrard have published a selection of the best of their “Now and Then” columns from The Seattle Times written over several decades. These columns reveal, explore and share Seattle local history by paralleling vintage photographs from previous years with photographs and commentary on these same spaces and places today. In so doing, Dorpat and Sherrard are able to focus on recurring issues and complex ideas that have shaped our city. Their creation of a People’s History of the region has made our past and how we look at the present and design the future much more accessible to scholars, historians and people interested in Seattle “Now and Then.”
Marcellus Turner, Seattle city librarian
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Lane Morgan
The best thing about writing Seattle: A Pictorial Historywith my dad back in 1982 was meeting Paul Dorpat. He and Murray were kindred spirits, delighting in the oddities and ironies of the city’s past and present and, in their overlapping ways, telling its story. Paul is a treasure, and this book is a fitting sampling and tribute to his work.
Lane Morgan, Seattle author, Greetings from Washington,
co-author, Seattle: A Pictorial History,
editor, The Northwest Experience anthologies
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For the rest of the blurbs, check out our blurbs page.
Eager to place your order? It’s easy. Just visit our “How to order” page. You can even specify how you want Paul and Jean to personalize your copy. Orders will be mailed starting next Monday and will reach mailboxes about a week later, well in time for holiday gift giving.
As Jean looks on, Paul signs a book for Nancy Guppy of The Seattle Channel’s “Art Zone.”
Big thanks to everyone who has helped make this book a successful tribute to the public historian who has popularized Seattle history via more than 1,800 columns for nearly 37 years, Paul Dorpat!
Richard Berner died around 2:30 pm last Saturday Nov. 3, 2018. At the time Jean and I were in West Seattle helping the West Seattle Historical Society with it’s annual “gala auction.” That benevolent huckstering went so well that the gala ran both bountiful and long, and our plan to visit Rich following the auction was prevented by the small worries of slipping time. Two days later we learned that it was also snipped by the singular one of Rich’s death. Born at the very end of 1920, Richard did not make it to 100. As the founder of the University of Washington Library’s Archive he was a mentor to many of us, and friend too. Rich was a fine blend of ready compassion and good humor.
BERNER’S BOOMTOWN
(click to enlarge photos)
We are pleased now to introduce Seattle 1900-1920: From Boomtown, Urban Turbulence to Restoration, the first of Richard C. Berner’s three books named together Seattle in the 20th Century.When the details, stories, and insights are explored with a close reading, Berner’s accomplishment is by far our widest opening into Seattle’s twentieth century, the first half of it, from the 1900 to 1950. Those fifty years were also the second half of Seattle’s first hundred years, if we begin our counting with the footsteps of mid-western farmers settling here in the early 1850s.
Richard Berner, a recent portrait
Volume one was first published in 1991 by Charles Press, and the publisher – “Rich” Berner himself – made a modest list of its contents on the back cover. We will repeat it. “Politics of Seattle’s urbanization: dynamics of reform, public ownership movement, turbulent industrial relations, effects of wartime hysteria upon newfound civil liberties – all responding to the huge influx of aspiring recruits to the middle class & organized labor as they confronted the established elite. Includes outlines of the economy, cultural scene, public education, population characteristics & ethnic history.”
For this “printing” we have added many captioned illustrations, some of them copied from news reports of the events Berner examines, and we have almost always succeeded in placing each next to the text it illustrates. On-line illustrated editions of Volume 2: Seattle 1921-1940, From Boom to Bust and Volume 3: Seattle Transformed, World War 2 to Cold War will follow – but not at the moment. The collecting of illustrations and putting them in revealing order with the narratives for Volume 2 and 3 is still a work in progress. Readers who want to “skip ahead” of our illustrated presentations of Berner’s three books here on dorpatsherrardlomont can find the complete set of his history as originally published in local libraries or through interlibrary loans.
How Rich Berner managed it is a charmed story. He undertook what developed into his magnus opus after retiring in 1984 from his position as founder and head of the University of Washington Archives and Manuscripts Division. Between the division’s origin in 1958 and his retirement Rich not only built the collection but also studied it. Berner worked closely with Bob Burke, the U.W. History professor most associated with the study of regional history who first recommended Berner, a University of California, Berkeley graduate in history and library science, for the U.W. position.Together, the resourceful professor and the nurturing archivist shepherded scores of students in their use of the archive. Rich Berner is the first to acknowledge that he also learned from the students as they explored and measured the collection for dissertations and other publications. By now their collected publications can be imagined as its own “shelf” of Northwest History.
News clipping showing Rich C. Berner “as curator of manuscripts for the University of Washington Library.”
Rich Berner showed himself also a good explicator of his profession.His influential book, Archival Theory and Practice in the United States: A Historical Analysis was published by the University of Washington Press in 1983 and was awarded the Waldo Gifford Leland Prize by the Society of American Archivists. Composing this historical study on top of establishing and nourishing the University’s Archive and Manuscripts Division may be fairly considered a life’s achievement, but, with his 1984 retirement Berner continue to work in the archive at writing his three-volume history. He published Volume Three in 1999, and so, continuing the charm of this entire production, he completed Seattle in the 20th Century before the century (and millennium) was over.
Rich & Thelma
(Lest we imagine this scholar chained to his archive we know that with his wife Thelma, a professor of Physiology and Biophysics in the U.W. Medical School and the first woman appointed Associate Dean of the UW graduate school, this famously zestful couple managed to often take to the hills and mountains.)
Rich was born in Seattle in 1920 – the last year explored in this his first volume. His father worked on the docks as a machinist, and for a time was “blacklisted” by employers because of his union advocacy.During the depression, while Rich was attending classes at Garfield High School, his mother ran a waterfront café on the Grand Trunk Pacific’s pier at the foot of Madison Street.
Rich in uniform
During the war Rich served with the Army’s 10th Mountain Division. Following it with help from the GI Bill he matriculated at Cal-Berkeley with degrees in both history and library science. It was also in Berkeley that he first met Robert Burke, then Director of the Manuscript Collection of the Bancroft Library. Rich worked part time there.
For Seattle, as for any city of size, there is a “canon” of publications that are necessary reading for anyone wanting to get a grip on local history. The first half of the Seattle Canon may be said to begin with Pioneer Arthur Denny’s Pioneer Reminiscences of 1888. The pioneer canon receives its own magnus opus with the combined works – multi-volume histories of Seattle and King County – of Clarence Bagley, himself a pioneer. That Berner was already attending Seattle’s T.T. Minor grade school in 1926 when Bagley was still three years away from publishing his History of King County is evidence of the “Boomtown” included in the title of this Berner’s first of three books on Seattle history.
With rare exceptions the books included in this first part of the Seattle Canon were published by their subjects, like Denny’s still revealing Reminiscences, or under the direction and/or support of their subjects, like Bagley’s still helpful volumes. They are generally “picturesque histories” written to make their subjects seem more appealing than they often were. The stock of motives for “doing heritage” are there generally supportive or positive, showing concern for the community, admiration for its builders, the chance to tell good stories, and often also the desire to learn about one’s forebears although primarily those truths that are not upsetting.Not surprisingly, and again with rare exceptions, these booster-historians and their heritage consumers were members of a minority of citizens defined by their wealth, race and even religion. It would be a surprise to find any poor socialists, animists or even affluent Catholics among them.
Part Two of the Seattle Canon may be said to have popularly begun with Skid Road, historian-journalist Murray Morgan’s charming and yet still raking history of Seattle. Published in 1951, the year of Seattle’s centennial, it is still in print, and has never been out of it. Richard Berner has dedicated Seattle 1900-1920: From Boomtown, Urban Turbulence to Restoration to Morgan. The post-war canon is often corrective of the sins of the pioneers. The works of Morgan and many others, certainly including Berner, are not generally clothed in the pious harmonies of their predecessors, the ordinarily stress-free narratives expected of those who were writing under the “pioneer code.”
In our opinion Rich Berner’s three-volume Seattle in the 20th Centuryis the greatest single achievement of our Seattle Canon – “part two.”It has the scope and details required. It is profoundly instructive and filled with the characters and turns of fate that any storyteller might admire and wisely exploit. Within Berner’s three books are the wonders of what they did, the touchstones of their devotions and deceptions, their courage and hypocrisy, meanness and compassion.Certainly, it has been our pleasure to help illustrate this the first volume and to also continue on now with volumes two and three.
Paul Dorpat 10/1/2009
Archivist-Antiquarian as Young-Equestrian posing in front of the Berner family home on Seattle’s Cherry Street.Student at Seattle’s Garfield High SchoolRich Berner’s father, top-center: machinist on the Seattle waterfront.“High school or college, I’m no longer sure.” – Rich BernerRich Berner, second row third from left, posing for a group portrait of the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division at a Colorado camp during the Second World War.With Thelma on Mt. StuartThelma & RichThe Robert Gray Award from the Washington State Historical Society
THEN: Cornish School under construction in 1921 at its new campus at Harvard Avenue and E. Roy Street. (Courtesy, Museum of History and Industry)NOW: The arts academy’s “purpose-built” home is named Kerry Hall for the philanthropist Mrs. A.S. Kerry, who co-founded the Music and Art Foundation that ran Cornish School as a non-profit.
Cornish, a few years later aka “in the 1920s.”
11th Hour investing in Cornish construction. An adver clip from The Times for March 14, 1921.Advers from June 30, 1921 include the announcement that the Cornish move off Broadway to Harvard would be delayed but for only a few days.A clip from The Times for July 10, 1921Another Times clip from July 10, 1921.The Times summary of some of the events connected with the school’s dedication. A Times clip from July 24,1921.Nellie Cornish
Construction for the new campus of ‘The Cornish School for Drama, Music, Dance’ began on the first day of 1921. The work was rushed forward so that the school could open early in September, on time for the still young institution’s eighth season. Perhaps predictably, in late summer agents with homes to sell or apartments to rent in the neighborhood enhanced with this new landmark, began running classifieds for their properties with the message “near Cornish School” in both The Times and The Post-Intelligencer. That enticing landmark is under construction in this week’s “then,” although its bricks are not yet adorned with the ornamental tiles and stucco skin that still define its Spanish Colonial lines.
Cornish was founded in 1914 on Capitol Hill in the Booth Building at the SE corner of E. Pine and Broadway, less than a mile south of its new campus. (see below) After a year, in the summer of 1915, it featured two studios, five teachers and eighty pupils. The growth was impressive. Five years later when the enlarged and relocated academy was being planned and the cash to build it first pursued, the school held twenty-seven studios serving 1,154 pupils, led by twenty-six teachers. These halls of ivy then sometimes surely resonated with the reflecting sounds of rehearsing students. (I remember well that joyful, on the whole, noise in the early 1970s when I taught filmmaking to Cornish students, most of whom, like myself, could not afford to make films.)
This school of “allied arts” was founded by its namesake, the confident pedagogue-pianist Nellie Cornish. As late as the 1970s the often-convivial tone of her directions were still remembered by some as sometimes comedic. For instance, at one of the Sunset Club’s Masquerades Nellie proved her sense of humor when she won the “funniest costume” award. Cornish also frequently gave lectures, many of them before the city’s applauded Ladies Musical Club. (Would that there then had been smart phones with digital recorders.)
The Roy Street entrance to the Women’s Century Club served for about a quarter century as the popular door into Jim Osteen and Art Bernsstein’s (respectively, left and right), Harvard Exit Theatre.
For the featured photographs at the top both photographers aimed northwest from the fortunately irregular Capitol Hill intersection of E. Roy Street and Harvard Avenue. Following the Cornish example, this part of the Capitol Hill neighborhood became sophisticatedly snug when joined by the Woman’s Century Club and the Rainier Chapter of the D.A.R. (both built in 1925), and architect Arthur Loveless’s charming Studio Building. Historylink’s principal founder, Walter Crowley, describes the last in his National Trust Guide to Seattle (1998), as a “delightful mimic” of England’s Cotswold villages. Crowley notes that to the north and west of this prospect are the admired homes that make this Seattle’s only residential preserve, the Harvard-Belmont Landmark District.
WEB EXTRAS
Anything to add, boys? For sure Jean, and Ron will start again with some recent* features and I’ll follow with some scans from older clippings. (*Since we started the blog about ten years ago. Jean will know, but he sleeps.)
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First appeared in Pacific on March 31, 2002
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First printed in The Times on March 3, 2002
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First appeared in Pacific on Sunday January 21, 1990.
My first record was offered for Christmas , it was a Johnny Hallyday’s 45 rpm with the famous song “Teenage idol” (“l’idole des jeunes “). In the sixties, he brought in the french musical landscape a sacred wind of youth, Rock and Roll and America .
For 60 years of career , his songs have been always in the mood of the time, he became a monumental and popular singer.
We have been all singing so loud on our moped “Que je t’aime ” “Nous avons tous quelque chose du Tennessee”…
Mon premier disque était celui de Johnny, c’était la célèbre chanson l’idole des jeunes. Dans les années 60 , il apporta dans le paysage musical français un sacré vent de jeunesse, de Rock and Roll et d’Amérique.
Nous avons tous chanté a tue-tête “Que je t’aime” ” Nous avons tous quelque chose du Tennessee”
Johnny I photographed in 1987 during a rehearsal
Johnny, que j’ai photographié en 1987 pendant une répétition
Greetings. We discovered that this weekend’s contribution to The Times PacificNW mag has been dropped, or rather postponed, for this January One, 2017 the annual “Pictures of the Year” (last year) takes every page, except, of course, those with the ads. In its place we will assemble a miscellany: a pile of oddities.
PIONEER AGING
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The INTERLAKEN BIKE TRAIL – Perhaps An Early Pause to Tweet
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WORLD WAR ONE SURGERY BASE HOSPITAL NO. 50 ( IN FRANCE) SUPPLIED WITH DOCTORS AND NURSES FROM WASHINGTON STATE
NURSE AT THE BEACH (NORMANDY)
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CAPITOL HILL BUS STOP at the Southwest Corner of BROADWAY and REPUBLICAN –
In 1976-77 during my residency above Peters on Broadway I snapped two thousand or more photographs – both bw and color – of those waiting for a bus and/or boarding it. It was part of an art in public places program, which, I think or bet, Anne Folke at the And/Or Gallery (and performance space, also on Capitol Hill) was behind. Some of the photographs wound up on the busses – beside the interior ads. (Or they might have had busses that were dedicated to the public arts project sans commerce.)
Friends of the Rag performed for our cameras – we also shot film. (Some day all will be revealed.)
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POLITICALLY CORRECT GRAFFITI – CA. 1975 on Eastlake
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MERIDIAN PLAYFIELD – From WALLINGFORD WALKS, 2006-2010 [click to enlarge]
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REST IN PEACE
Composer Norman Durkee at my 40th Birthday party, Oct. 28, 1978.Friend of art and justice, Doug McBroom (on the right) with his contribution to MOMA’S Forsaken Art Collection. Occasion: 2013 founding of the Museum Of Forsaken Art with a banquet at Ivar’s Salmon House. All those attending paid for their own salmon, (except those who forgot to, slackers for whom Jean Sherrard picked up the bill) and contributed an object of art to the collection, which now waits and calls for an old or new member to help build the web page sharing the estimated 1000 parts of the collection. Please step forward.Tiny Freeman over the shoulder of KRAB RADIO founder Lorenzo Milam on the evening of KRAB’S LAST DAY on the air. (There’s a good history of KRAB on HISTORYLINK should you want to know the date – and more.)
Tiny Freeman (on the right) on the sidewalk beside the Central Tavern on First Ave. South.Christ’s Nose – early and late Gothic examplesMISSING LINK from Stanwood High School photo album
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PROVERBS FROM 1889 AND A PROHIBITION-SYMPATHETIC CARTOON FROM A SEATTLE TIMES CLIP FOR MARCH 18, 1913. [CLICK TWICE to Read]
PIONEER SQUARE BAR and only 45 DRINKING DAYS LEFT
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BRAIN POWER – FOUR FREE LECTURES – MOORE THEATRE
ESTES CONDUCTS HIS KIDS IN A TREE LIKE NOTES ON A MUSICAL STAFF – LIFE MAGAZINE NOV. 21, 1938
[No video this week as Jean is off visiting Juneau. He will, however, return with visual treasures for a future blog post!]
(click to enlarge photos)
THEN: Built quickly in the winter of 1906-07, the Prince Rupert Hotel faced Boren Avenue from the third lot north of Pike Street. About fifty-five years later it was razed for the I-5 Freeway. (Courtesy Lawton Gowey)NOW: With no hotel-apartment to block his view, Jean Sherrard shows us some of the new construction in the neighborhood that was first called North Seattle when the growing city reached it in the 1870s
Most likely the name for this classical structure, the Prince Rupert Hotel, was chosen as an allusion either to then proposed British Columbia port city, about six-hundred miles north of Seattle, or to that city’s namesake Prince Rupert of the Rhine (1619-1682), the first Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company. A contest, for a prize of $250, was held to name the town. The naming match was held by
Seattle Times clip from February 25, 1906.Seattle Times clip, June 3, 1906Seattle Times clip from June 6, 1906.Seattle Times clip, October 3, 1906
the Grand Trunk Pacific, the Canadian railway that built its West Coast terminus at Prince Rupert, and, constructed the Grand Trunk Pacific Wharf on Elliott Bay as a link to Seattle’s booming commerce. When completed in 1910 on our waterfront between Madison and Marion Streets, it was the largest wooden pier on the Pacific Coast. Prince Rupert was increasingly in the news.
The Grand Trunk Pacific pier ca. 1909 looking north from the Marion Street pedestrian overpass to Colman Dock.A “now” for the above “then,” also from the Marion overpass, taken about ten years ago.The 1914 fate of the Grand Trunk pier to burn to its pilings. Note the Smith Tower on the left, which was dedication this year. Colman Dock on the right was saved by the fire boats that were normally stationed at Fire Station No. 5, directly north (to the left) of the Grand Trunk pier. The Canadian railroad got lower insurance rates because of them.
When the hotel was first noticed in this newspaper it was named the Hotel Prince Rupert. Sometimes it took new hotel builders or managers time to decide between introducing their newest gift to local hostelries with the generic ‘hotel’ at the front or the rear of their chosen name. The Prince Rupert was built during the winter of
An early Prince Rupert Seattle Times classified from May 16, 1907.Meanwhile, or about that time . . . A Seattle Times clip from April, 11, 1907.
1906-07 and opened at 1515 Boren Avenue in May of 1907. Listed in classifieds, the attractions of this five-story fireproof hotel with 115 rooms included “strictly modern, outside windows in every room, short walking distance of business center, within a half-block of four car lines, first-class dining room in connection.” In an August 4, 1907, short report on the hotel, the Seattle Times noted that it “at once became extremely popular, and although it was opened less than three months ago, it is impossible to accommodate all who apply.”
A Seattle Times clip from August 4, 1907.This Feb. 25, 1906 clip is pulled from a special Seattle Times section illustrating the splendors of Seattle in 1906. And it was then still a remarkable boom town, although the “typical” part of this page’s title is a bit self-assured. Yet, it is remarkable that all of this and much more had been constructed after the city’s Great Fire of 1889. These are the Prince Rupert’s downtown competitors, most of them with many more rooms. You might wish to count the survivors among them. [Click to Enlarge]
While exploring the former location of the Prince Rupert Hotel’s front door and its four classical columns that faced Boren Street, one will be careful not to fall into the I-5 ditch that took with its cutting this hotel and many others along the western slope of the First Hill/Capitol Hill ridge in the early 1960s. The ever-alert Jean
Climbing First Hill in 1914 with Rod Edge for a visit with Rich Berner at Skyline, I snapped this from the passenger’s side while crossing above the I-5 ditch. This is near (or at) the Prince Rupert’s front door. Note the landscaped roof of the Convention Center just above the railing. The tree on the far left is part of the landscape of Plymouth Pillars Park at the northwest corner of Pike and Boren.
Sherrard has widened the frame for this week’s ‘repeat,’ second from the top, to include the most western corner of Plymouth Pillars Park. There, although still off-frame to the left, the rescued columns of Plymouth Congregational Church, which formerly faced Sixth Avenue between Seneca and University Streets, are nicely blended within a copse of deciduous trees in their own triangular park at the northwest corner of Pike Street and Boren Avenue.
Two years earlier, again riding with Ron on one of our lunchtime visits with Rich Berner, I snapped this autumnal record of Plymouth PIllars Park from the window on Oct. 29, 2012.An early full-face frontal of the Plymouth Sanctuary at the southwest corner of 6th Avenue and University Street.First appeared in Pacific November 2, 1997. Photographed by Lawton Gowey on March 21, 1966.
It is a satisfying coincidence that both the four surviving Plymouth Pillars and those that supported the top floor portico of the Prince Rupert were of the Ionic order, although in their 1966 removal from the demolished church, the Plymouth pillars lost their scrolled capitals. Still we permit ourselves to fashion an Ionic irony that the church’s pillars were saved and moved to Boren Street to replace those of the razed hotel.
By Lawton GoweyBorrowed from wikipedia or somewhere near it in the cloud.Our week’s feature superimposed on a detail from the 1912 Baist real estate map. The lower-left corner of the photo-insert nearly touches the intersection of Pike and Boren. You will find the footprint for the Prince Rupert above the intersection on the west side (right) of Boren. Avenue, which runs here towards the upper-left corner of the map.A detail of Prince Rupert, British Columbia today, used courtesy of Google Earth.
WEB EXTRAS
Anything to add, lads? Not at this moment. It is early Saturday morning. Soon Jean and Karen will be flying to Juneau for two days with friends there, their first Alaska visit. Also sometime later today Ron will put up about fifteen links to this week’s feature about a hotel and-or apartment, and a swath of its neighborhood lost to the I-5. Late today, in the evening and on into Sunday, I’ll add a few things more that are relevant either to the subject or the neighborhood. For the lead-off video we thought or had hoped to interview Dianna James, author of “Shared Walls,” and local apartment house historian whom we have often featured here. We could not squeeze it in, but will the next time we feature some shared walls, and that’s inevitable. Bon Voyage to Jean and Karen.
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Jean and Karen have arrived in Juneau and right-off visited the Mendenhall Glacier, which is practically in town. He sends this picture, which I have joined to a Google Earth detail of downtown Juneau (lower-right) and the Mendenhall (upper-middle). Jean explains his position as “South of the glacier and north of the visitor’s center. Taken on my cell phone. Sent from my iPhone.” Jean and Karen are both well-equipped and clothed for the elements. [Click to Enlarge]
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UP THE HILL on BOREN, TWO MORE NEIGHBORS
Above: The Ward tower, Dec. 30, 1977.
The move, the last part of it, up Denny Way.The Ward home now – photographed, again, on one of Ron and my lunch excursions to visit Rich Berner.
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First appeared in Pacific, August 10, 2003.
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Like the rest of us, covered by the Second Amendment, the injured history of Grace Torlicher, once a resident of the Prince Rupert, can be followed, in part, with the few Seattle Times’ clips that track her between 1917 and 1935. May we assume that Grace and her John continued to practice till death did them part for the “regulated Militia” and the security of our somewhat free state? A Times clip from Sept. 16, 1917.A Times clip from Sept. 21, 1917.A Seattle Times clip from July 8, 1921.Clip from the Seattle Times for May 28, 1935.Continued Times clip form May 28, 1935.
Before this coming Sunday’s feature is published we want to insert an addition to last week’s feature about the Galbraith and Bacon Wall Street Wharf and the Bark Montcalm that was tied to her south side most likely in early November, 1910 and not “circa 1912” as we speculated last Sunday. Here’s the feature photo, again.
Courtesy, Lawton Gowey
We received three letters responding to our uncertainties about which Montcalm this was and, as noted, the date it visited Seattle. Reader Kyle Stubbs was first to respond, and noted that “I am only aware of one Montcalm that was a barque-rigged sailing vessel. That is the Montcalm of 1902, 2,415 tons built at Nantes, France, which was used in around Cape Horn service by La Societe des Voiliers Nantais. The vessel was broken up in the Netherlands in 1924.”
The next letter came from Douglas Stewart, a seasoned cardiologist with the University Medical School and hospital, whom I first met last winter after I fell to the kitchen floor, tripped by my oxygen gasping heart’s tricks with consciousness, or loss of it. The good doctor is also an enthusiast for most things maritime, and even rows to work from his home, which like the hospital sits beside Portage Bay. He found that the original nitrate negative for this photograph is in the keep of the University Libraries Special Collections. In their terse cataloging of it a librarian concludes that this was the “decommissioned sailing ship Montcalm at dock, probably in Seattle ca. 1912.” The date is almost certainly wrong, and the “decommissioned” attribute is unclear or uncertain. Decommissioned when? The library’s data also describes this Montcalm as an “armored sailing corvette . . . originally built for the French Navy in 1865.” While a Google search for everything that is a Montcalm and floats will surface a French corvette with that heroic name dating from the 1860s, it is, again, almost certainly not this Montcalm. The first French corvettes of the 17th century were much smaller than this bark or barque and were built to carry cannons. They got bigger, surely, but not this big. and continued to be built for cannons not concrete and wheat like our Montcalm.
The Montcalm at the Wall Street Pier as illustrated in the Seattle Times for Nov. 2, 1910, and as mistakenly titled the Antwerp. The professional headline or title writer did not consult the reporter or caption writer, a common enough mistake in newspapers. Almost certainly the feature photo on top was recorded by the same photographer. (Courtesy, Seattle Public Library and The Seattle Times)
The third and last contributor to this quest for a proper caption is our old friend Stephen Lundgren, who for this sort of investigation into maritime history prefers the sobriquet Capt. Stefan Eddie. I confess to having used the Captain at times as a capable “World Authority on Everything,” resembling the Professor played by Sid Caesar on his TV show in the 50’s – the best part of that decade. Capt. Eddie also did what I should have done, which is consult the Seattle Public Libraries assess to the key-word search opening into The Seattle Times on-line archive between 1900 and 1984. Stephen found, for instance, the clipping above, which was almost certainly photographed by the same camera or camera person as the featured photo on top. From reading the Times reporting during the Montcalm’s few days stay in Seattle, the Captain concludes, “Took about an hour trolling the Times database and verifying the ship history facts. That it is rigged as a bark, with a steel hull, narrows the search. It’s at the Galbraith Dock probably between discharging the cement cargo in West Seattle and before loading outbound wheat at Smith Cove. The Galbraith Co. dealt in Cement. Question is what buildings were constructed with this Belgium-shipped concrete?” Capt. Stefan Eddie’s last question really goes too far. How could anyone be expected to follow the concrete from ship to foundations?
An early record of the West Seattle elevator. Why we wonder did the Montcalm unload its concrete here, an elevator for grain, when it was Galbraith and Bacon at Mill Street that was the dealer in concrete?
Finally, Captain Stephan Eddit added to his missive something more of his charming familiarity with the Montcalm subject. He explains, “Lars Myrlie Sr. tells me (in Norwegian) ‘I gots off that damm frenchie ship as soon as it gots to Seattle, it was a hell ship and I damm near gots my head stove in off the coast when the load shifted and knocked the other cargo loose cement in bulk, which meant our sure deaths if we gots a leak. Sure it was a steel ship but them damm rivets popped when a hard one hit, like a bullet they was and then came the squirt. My brother gots me off the Galbreath dock and over to Port Blakely and no more damn frenchies for me, Tusende Tak Gotts!”
It took the Montcalm 195 days to carry its 3,000 tons of concrete from Antwerp to Seattle. The ship was registered at 1,744 tons, so the concrete gave it lots of steadying ballast for the storms. However, there were no storms except the expected ones around Cape Stiff, the sailors’ name for Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America. Otherwise her crossing of the Atlantic was one of constant calms and so not of great speed.
Two months before “our” Montcalm visits Elliott Bay another French Montcalm called on us and stayed and partied long enough to qualify as a floating embassy.
About two hours ago our friend and expat in Lima, Bill White, was honored on a stage at the Seattle Public Library. Or rather his e-book CINEMA PENITENTIARY was honored, he could not make it from Lima. CINEMA PENITENTIARY is one of three books selected by the Seattle Public Library to be included this year in its lending collection. We hope that some blog’s will remember that now a few years back we included an excerpt from CINEMA PENITENTIARY. Now, below, Ron Edge will return it to the front of this blog (before the week’s now and then comes forward this evening) that posting. It will be linked to five reports that Bill made while on his long journey to his New World by ship in the fall of 2012. We miss you still Bill and CONGRATULATION, of course. As agreed we should try to resume the posting of Helix issues later this fall. (Once we figure out our Skype tangles.) A WARNING: Bill is fond of re-writing so the chapter from CINEMA PENITENTIARY that we printed here two years ago, may have been polished or something since then. If so now you can compare them. Contact the library. It is a treat.
Click the festive photo from Bill to review all his post for his “Journey to a New World”
I’ve grown fond lately of returning to the snapshots I took of the neighborhood during my nearly daily Wallingford Walks between 2006 and 2010. (I should probably still be at it.) I’ll share (or push) some of these over the next few days or longer, and find a general name for them all later. Here is No.1, which is really twenty settings I made for a fallen Wallingford leaf in 2008. [click to enlarge]
THEN: One of a few photographs recording from different prospects the Fremont trolley car barn on Dec.11, 1936. North 35th Street, on the right, was originally named Blewett for Edward and Carrie Blewett. In 1888 the couple, fresh from Fremont, Nebraska, first named and promoted Fremont as a Seattle neighborhood. That year Fremont also got its lumber mill. (Courtesy, Lawton Gowey)
In response to our last blog feature, the one about the Fremont Car Barn and the rest, an old friend and officer in these trenches, archivist Ernie Dornfield, answered our question regarding what was the use of those ghost-colored solid forms in the otherwise vacant lot between the house on the left of the subject and the car barn beyond both? Here’s Ernie’s letter plus a “grab” from this computer’s screen of a City Archive photograph that shows one of those “gray things” being installed. If you follow his advice and access the city clerk’s information service you will find many more and even much more beyond gray concretions.
THEN: When it was built in 1902, this box home, with classic Ionic pillars at the porch, was set above the northwest corner of the freshly graded Brooklyn Avenue and 47th Street in the University District. (Courtesy, John Cooper)NOW: For customer parking, the grade at the corner was lowered for Carson Cleaners, which has occupied the corner since 1962, almost as long as the residence it replaced.
The original print of this “real photo postcard” is bordered with the scribbled message that I have cropped away: “Remember me to any old class mates you happen to see.” The postcard shows another message as well, one that is most helpful, while still mildly mutilating the postcard’s face. It appears in the gray sky between the two homes. Although barely readable, you may decipher “Brooklyn Ave” written there. The postcard also shows a dimly drawn line leading to the street number 4703, nailed to the top of the front porch.
A detail pulled from the 1908 Baist Real Estate map with the intersection of Brooklyn Ave. and 47th Street right-of-center.“Void” for some others but not us dear reader. This is, of course, one of the thousands of tax cards generated by the Works Progress Administration in the late 1930s for its inventory of every taxable property in King County. Many unregistered structures were found in this tax-enriching process. (Courtesy, Washington State Archive, Bellevue branch)
This then is 4703 Brooklyn Avenue in the University District, an identification I corroborated with a photograph of the same house attached to its assessor’s “tax card,” held in the Puget Sound Branch of the Washington State Archives in Bellevue. The tax records have the classic box built in 1902, a year in which the neighborhood was still as likely called Brooklyn as the University District. Brooklyn was the name given to it in 1890 by super-developer James Moore. He chose the name because his addition “looked across the water” to Seattle proper like the New York borough of the same name that looks across the East River to Manhattan. Brooklyn Avenue, its intended main street, was the first one graded in the addition, and it was at this intersection that Moore constructed a water tower.
A paid promotion for the then new Brooklyn addition placed in The Seattle Press for Dec. 1, 1890.Amos T. Winsor’s obituary for Aug. 21, 1947
The owners of this classic box were Amos and Alice Winsor. In his 1947 obituary (above) Amos is credited with having lived in the district for forty-four years and “built many of the early buildings on the University of Washington Campus, including Science (renamed Parrington) Hall.” Included among the Winsor family’s many celebrations held in their home was their daughter Olivia Rachel’s marriage to a Brooklyn neighbor, Vilas Richard Rathbun, on April 16,
April 17,1913 Wedding report for Olive Rachel Winsor and Vilas Richard Rathbun, and another below for April twentieth.
Olive and her new husband Vilas have moved in with her parents at 4703 Brooklyn Avenue. The Seattle Time’s piece appears on December, 12, 1914. Vilas’ parents live nearby on 15th Avenue.By at most ten years more, a sizable part of the Winsor home has been divided into a rented apartment.
1913. They were, The Times reported, “Surrounded by about fifty relatives and intimate friends.” The ceremony was conducted by Horace Mason, the progressive pastor of University Congregational Church. From both the congregation’s and the addition’s beginnings in 1890, the Congregationalists were effective at promoting the Brooklyn Community Club, the principal campaigner for neighborhood improvements.
University Congregational Church at the northeast corner of Brooklyn Ave. and 43rd Street.
Inside the Congregationalist sanctuary.University Congregational’s second sanctuary at the northeast corner of 43rd Street and Brooklyn Avenue appears bottom-right in this look southeast across the “Ave” (at the center) and part of the UW campus (on the left) from the Meany Hotel. The Methodists are on the left and the Post Office to this side of them.
In the “now” photograph, the by now half-century old plant of Carson Cleaners replaced the Winsor home in 1962. Bob Carson tells how his parents, Roy and Doris, were persuaded by the corner’s new owner, Helen Rickert, of Helen Rickert Gown Shop on the “Ave”, to open a cleaners at the corner. Richert was a fan, consistently pleased with how the Carsons handled her gowns and dresses in the cleaners Lake City shop. The Carsons agreed to the move and brought their modern corner sign with them. Bob half apologizes for the condition of the now also half-century old sign and reader board. “It needs to be repainted, but our lease is up in December and I’m retiring.” For Bob we add both our “congratulations” and a “whoopee.”
The property’s tax card extended to show the big changes of 1962. .
WEB EXTRAS
Anything to add, Paul? Surely Jean, with Ron’s help we have three links added that are well-appointed with University District features, although most of them stick to “The Ave.” or University Way, AKA, thru its now 124 years, as 14th Avenue and Columbus Street. But then Brooklyn was first named Broadway.
[CLICK & DISCOVER]
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On Oct. 18, 1925 The Seattle Times reached University Way with its series on Seattle’s neighborhood. [CLICK to ENLARGE]We have shared this north end detail from a Seattle map before. It shows that in the late 1890s the neighborhoods on the north shore of Lake Union included Fremont, Edgewater, Latona, and Brooklyn. This last was not abandoned until well into the 20th century. Now it is always University District. Latona, Edgewater and Ross, far left, are hardly heard either.
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NOW THEN & MAYBE
NOW it has come to what we sometimes affectionately call Nighty-Bears, the wee-morning hour when we climb the stairs to what this night after a few hot days will be an warm bed. I am eager to retire, somewhat drained by a pursuit this afternoon of a few more sides for this week’s subject, the broad way of Brooklyn Ave. THEN after a late breakfast I’ll return and put up the “other sides” we, again, have prepared but for now not plopped because we are pooped. Nighty-Bears then, but with something entirely different at the temporary bottom: an unidentified “painted lady.” She is for me an exciting intimation of all the joyful work that is expected ahead while shaping MOFA: the Museum of Forsaken Art. And this place, below, if not forsaken is, at least, forgotten. I do not remember where or when I recorded it’s rhythms and tenderly abused symmetry, but almost certainly not on Brooklyn, not even MAYBE.
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BROOKLYN AVE. CONTINUES after breakfast, SUNDAY JULY 13, 2014, 12:45 PM
Unlike many corners, the intersection of Brooklyn and 47th has kept its gas – here at the northeast corner and next below kitty-corner too, and now with an enlarged Baptist sanctuary behind the station. Both are late 1930s tax photos, dutifully labeled. (Courtesy, Wash Start Archives)
Along with Fringies and Hippies, Urban Renewal – or studies and plans for such – came to the University District in the 1960s. This slide came to me from the district’s then acting mayor, Calmar McCune, a tall, broad-shouldered, thoughtful friend. It was part of a survey of the district concerned primarily with its parking. The view looks north on Brooklyn Ave. from the Meany Hotel and shows in the foreground the “residents” to the sides of 47th and Brooklyn, including Carson Cleaners, the two service stations and the Christ parish Episcopalians. University Heights school is above-center.University Heights, looking northwest from the intersection of 50th and University Way, then still named 14th Avenue.
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I snapped both the above and below records of the north facade of the Kincade Apartments and coin-op laundromat that has been there for as long as I remember the neighborhood. The bottom record I made in the heat of yesterday’s late afternoon, but I neither remember when I took the photo on top nor why. The place was important to me and my bag of soiled clothes, and I got their in the Toyoto on the right. On top Safeco and the Meany Hotel look down like like chums.
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Mid-block on the east side of Brooklyn Ave. between 45th and 47th streets, the Kincade Apartments, circa 1925.
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The Evelyn Apartments north of and across Brooklyn Ave. from the Kincade Apartments.
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THE OUTRAGEOUS TACO CO., THEN & NOW
Another slide from Mayor Cal’s district survey in the late 1960s.
North on Brooklyn from Carson Cleaners at 47rh.
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Organized in 1890 the first Church of Brooklyn, with help from its “mother” Plymouth Congregational Church, built this chapel on the west side of Brooklyn Avenue, mid-block between 41st and 42nd Streets. Thru its first years it was both a church and civic center, and much of the first neighborhood activism was conspired within it. In 1910 the congregation moved into its new sanctuary at 43rd and Brooklyn – featured above – with its new name, the University Congregational Church. Queen Anne Hill is on the left horizon.The embarrassingly plain and sensationally named – for the more impetuous and hormone-driven students? – Maverick Apartments take the place and more of the community’s first church.
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The Super AP Market on the east side of Brooklyn Ave. and north of the Congregationalist’s 1910 sanctuary, were not so super, but still long-lived, that is, I remember it. This view looks to the northwest and shows, top-center, the General Insurance Building – formally the Brooklyn Building, and later the Safeco Building with the big reader-board sign on the roof (see below), and since 1973 the home of its 22 story tower, a tower now embraced in the University of Washington’s neighborhood hegemony. The depression-time tax photo also gives a glimpse of the Meany Hotel, upper-right, at the northwest corner of 45th Street and Brooklyn Avenue.Work-in-progress on the district’s station for the underground rapid transit.The back of the Safeco roof-top sign seen from the Meany Hotel, ca. 1969. I remember a message on its reader-board, “Big Brother is Watching.”The Meany Hotel in 2002 with its then and short-lived new name, University Tower.Handsome, statuesque, professorial, and a good poser, the hotel’s namesake Ed Meany was often painted ad photographed. The artist here is unknown – by me, at least. Nor do I remember the painting. [Courtesy, MOHAI]Edmond Meany at the 1931 inauguration banquet for the opening of his namesake hotel. (Courtesy, U.W.Libraries)By comparison, here are two portraits of Joyce Gammel. it is the Golden Anniversary of my 1964 visit to the Meany Hotel with Joyce on our first date. After dinner at the Space Needle ($10 dollars we spent on dinner and wine!) we stopped at the Meany and improvised a photography studio with a table lamp in the lobby. That evening was encouraging. We spent the next seven months together, until Joyce’s death from a blood cancer in June of 1965. Ten years more and she may have survived with chemo. Although Joyce had some of that cocktail even in ’64 it was crude by comparison and considerably more painful too. Below is a charcoal of Joyce drawn by my painting mentor then, Herman Keys.
First appeared in Pacific, April 20, 2003.
The Safeco Tower renewed or transformed with the University’s glowing banner snapped from the car window on Roosevelt after leaving Trader Joes on Dec. 6, 2008.Forty-Fifth Street as the “Gateway to Wallingford . . . and Ballard” seen looking west from Brooklyn Avenue on Dec. 22, 1948, photographed either by Horace Sykes, or Lawton Gowey or Robert Bradley. The last’s slides are often mixed in with the Syke’s collection, which were inherited by Gowey and then given to me.
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ANOTHER BROOKLYN
Lawton Gowey’s glowing record of the Brooklyn Building at the southeast corner of University Street ad Second Avenue on August 25, 1976.
The Sunday Seattle Times article gave a nice overview of the history of the Villa Apartments. It did not mention Capitol Hill Housing’s role in reviving the building. While rooms may no longer rent for $2.50 a week, the Villa Apartments still stands because of the work of Capitol Hill Housing. In the late 1990s, this affordable housing and community building organization purchased the Villa, which had fallen into disrepair. The commercial facades were restored, strong retail tenants were attracted, and a major extension was added on to the back side of the property. The renovation was a key early act in helping transform Pike/Pike from a driving corridor to a destination. In a neighborhood where new studio apartments now rent for more than $2,000 a month, the Villa is an example of CHH’s efforts to strengthen the community and keep rents affordable for regular working people.
A few years ago, in collaboration with the Northwest School, CHH added a mural to the west side of the site. I’ll attach a photo of it. The muralist was Derek Wu working with NW School students.
That intrepid Boeing retiree Werner Lengenhager’s capture of the Namu’s sidewalk sign. (Courtesy, Seattle Public Library)
Phil’s comment follows.
“2013, and 1966 was a long time ago…but what an outstanding experience in my life. I was privileged to be hired by Ted Griffin to work with Namu at Smith Cove in the early part of 1966 until Namu was brought to Seattle. Then, I was given a wireless microphone and said to present demonstrations of Namu to the public…which I did many times that summer.
“I really came to love Namu with the closeness of feeding, petting, scratching his back, sides and belly. Many times I was able to get very close to Namu while feeding him with a slice of salmon. I was 21 at the time, and really enjoyed the people who came to see the show.
“At times, Namu, when demonstrating a high jump, would go back into the water without hardly a splash. Other times, however, he would come down kinda falling over so as to completely soak the ones in the way of the huge wave & spray! One incident in the evening took place with no one there, but two men and a lady who were dressed to the hilt for a night on the town. For them, I’m sure it was as memorable an evening as it was for me. When I cautioned them they’d be safer from getting wet if they went up the ramp and observed from there, they decided to take a chance and see at float level. You guessed it…it was the greatest of Namu’s jokes on the crowd…the got entirely drenched. Their reaction??? They all, after catching their breath from the cold water drench, broke out laughing, and even grateful for this fantastic memory…seeing the huge body of Namu nearly leap completely out of the water (after having carefully popped his head out of the water prior to the jump, scoped out the situation…including the three observers and the ball held out high above the water by yours truly). Then, with no time to react, they saw Namu falling toward them! You can well imagine the rest…as I see it still clearly in my minds eye.
“Thanks for the memories, Namu and Seattle”
This appeared in part first in the Seattle Times for August 23, 1970.
We learn in this issue that it is the last of our bi-weekly offerings. After this we went weekly until the end. We surely felt confident. Here again, although thousands of miles apart, Bill White and I read an issue together with the generous help of Skype. These edited versions are shorter than the time we took and recorded, but still even with Bill’s pruning we do ramble and sometimes stumble. Each trip (issue) we discuss is, however, certainly instructive, and considerably more than smoldering nostalgia for our lost youth. Well I should speak for myself, for Bill, much my junior, is still living lucky and in his prime. Thanks – repeated – to Ron Edge for doing the scanning. It certainly suites his assiduous side, and boundless love for old publications. [If you have any old regional papers – really old – please consider sharing them with Ron. He’ll make a disk for you, Id’ bet.]
In our last Sunday feature I shared with Berangere and Jean the hope that some reader would respond with explanations for the largely mysterious – for us – submarines that we included there. We were blessed with just such from Bill Hoeller. Now we will print out his explanations beneath the subs they apply to. And we will introduce this with the introduction to his first letter to us. Thanks much Bill.
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Dear Paul,
Having been born and raised in Seattle I always look forward to your Seattle Now & Then feature every Sunday. In 1940 when I was born I lived in the Rainier Valley. My wife and I currently live in Wallingford. I saw you had some questions concerning submarines, which I know a little about, so I thought I would respond. I’m also anxious to see additional posts about submarines.
All the best,
Bill Hoeller
This submarine is the H-Class submarine H-1 (SS-28). She was commissioned as the Seawolf, but was renamed the H-1. The H-3, built here at the Moran shipyard, was named the Garfish (SS-30).I’m still trying to find the name of this submarine. She’s a Balao or Tench class submarine that underwent a Guppy conversion. The shark fin looking thing up near the bow and just aft of the sail are two of the three sonar arrays for the PUFFS passive underwater fire control BQG-4 system that would give the range and bearing of a target. The third array would be well aft on the submarine. The high sail was added to the original configuration of the boat to provide more protection for those on the bridge from heavy seas, and was referred to as a North Atlantic Sail. These sails were also made partially of plastics to reduce weight and reduce corrosion. The boat may very well have been a foreign submarine when this photo was taken, one of the many Guppy boats we gave away. LATER . . . Thank you very much for asking Paul. You’re more than welcome to quote me.
Regarding the mystery boat moored across from the Continental Can Company, I belong to the United State Submarine Veterans, Inc. (USSVI) so I asked a friend of mine, Patrick Householder, who lives here and who once was the National Commander of the organization. The USSVI has over 13, 000 members, so the pool of knowledge within the group about U.S. submarines is infinite. Patrick knows more than most about U.S. diesel submarines.
Patrick said the boat was either the USS Salmon (SS-573) or the USS Sailfish (SS-572), and now that he said it I agree. Since the Salmon was a west coast boat and the Sailfish was an east coast boat, the boat in the picture is the undoubtedly the Salmon. I should have thought of Salmon because she was in our flotilla in San Diego when I was on Sea Devil (SS-400).
Salmon and Sailfish were purpose built as radar picket boats and both were 350’ long, which at the time was huge. The standard Gato, Balao and Tench class fleet submarines at the time were 312’ long. The boats carried a huge radar antenna on deck aft of the sail, and another huge antenna on top of the sail when they operated as picket boats, but when they were re-classified as regular diesel attack submarines their huge radar antennas were removed. [Here I asked Bill Hoeller to explain the meaning of “picket boats” in his passage above. His answer follows.] Don’t hold my feet to the fire on this, but the term “picket” would be likened to a picket fence around a house to act as a barrier to keep dogs in the yard (or perhaps outside the yard.) During the battle for Okinawa destroyers formed a picket barrier away from the main battle fleet to give early warning of Japanese aircraft Kamikaze attacks, and although the destroyers performed their job well many of them naturally became targets of the Kamikaze and many were sunk. The notion came up that perhaps a submarine could better do the job by submerging before the aircraft attacked, but nothing was done until shortly after the war. Perhaps eight or so conventional fleet diesel submarines were configured with huge search radars that allowed them to determine the range, distance and altitude of an aircraft. Here on the west coast I remember there were the Spinax, the Rock, the Raton and the Rasher. The Salmon and the Sailfish were purpose built as radar picket boats, as was the nuclear powered submarine USS Triton (SSRN-586). She was the boat that sailed around the world submerged. The whole program of using submarines as radar picket boats didn’t last long, perhaps for a year or a bit longer. Radars on long range aircraft performed the job much better.Here’s a photo of Salmon in San Francisco Bay that I found on the Internet. I think it’s rather cool.These two boats are the Bass (SS-164) and the Bonita (SS165). They were V-Class boats.Here’s the Bass again. Inboard of the Bass is probably the Barracuda (SS-163). The outboard boat is the Dolphin (SS-169). When she operated out of the old Coco Solo submarine base in Panama she was the D-1. Like the Bass and Barracuda the Dolphin was a V-Class boat.Below as you know is the USS Carp (SS-338). She was a Balao class boat, commissioned in February 1945, and made one war patrol before the war ended. She was sold for scrap in 1973.The USS Puffer (SS-268), a Gato class submarine, had a stellar career in WWII. She sustained one of the longest depth charging of any submarine, over 31 hours. She was submerged for 38 hours before coming back to the surface. Puffer holds a special place for me. I enlisted in the Navy aboard her in 1957 when she was the training boat for Submarine Reserve Division 13-16 here in Seattle at the Naval Armory. I spent a lot of time aboard her, and spent a lot of time marching around inside the Armory. You mentioned you lived for a time in a houseboat along Fairview, and told the story of the Puffer going adrift. When I was fourteen I worked for a commercial diver as his tender. He had a moorage for his diving barge at the north end of Lake Union, just east of the Gas Works. He managed to corral a lot of galvanized barrels. We filled the barrels with water, placed them under houseboats between the cedar logs upon which the houses were built, and blew the water out using compressed air, which helped to raise the houseboat up a bit. The cedar logs over the years would become waterlogged and slowly sink. We worked on houseboats all around Lake Union and Portage Bay.
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HOPEFULLY – if we can find it – we intend to return to this SUBMARINE SECTION of our blog with something on THE PRINCESS ANGELINE, the “first atomic submarine built for Puget Sound commuter service.” We doubt that it was ever built.Were we not quoting we would have preferred to write “planned for Puget Sound commuter service.” Please check for it later.
We were not very good about getting every issue of Helix properly noted for its number and date. This was the first issue printed after the first (of 3) Sky River Rock Festivals gathered together over Labor Day. So this is from 1968. Without any confidence in the internal evidence of this tabloid itself, we have dated it above “early September, 1968. It occurs to me that this negligence or uncertainly is, in part or from one prospect, a sign that we were then living in eternity. (This week – for the next Helix and hopefully within a week or two – we will look for other photos taken at the first Sky River. An google search will certainly show others.)
Our old friend (who yet does not seem to age), rock-n-roller, bluesman, front-stage photographer, party-thrower, columnist, incessant wit and politico, Jef Jaisun sends this press-photo and clipping – his creations from a 1979 concert at the Capitol Hill Masonic Temple on Pine Street, the site of the Link Lingenbrink’s Artist League balls covered here earlier this week. Thanks to Jef.
Bill has arrived in Peru. Ron is back to scanning the issues and will have the next Helix in line and it is expected soon. First, however, we will put up a True Confession and or Sentimental Sea Shanty from Bill recalling his trip by cruise ship nearly straight south from Florida to Peru but with a necessary jog through the Panama canal. His letter will include a video of his passage through the canal and, we expect, more photographs of his trip by Sea. (The story of his train trip from Seattle to Florida may come later. Hope so, for I like traveling in trains and their tales too.) Meanwhile for the Helix routine to resume we must also wait while we figure out how to make Skype work between here and Lima. And that is the sum of it - until we put up Bill's Caribbean Shanty and soon.
This most recent record of the old Helix was record last Oct. 29, and may be compared to one below it from 2008, and then another from the 1970s. At the bottom the door is open, but to the first Helix office, which was in the University District on Roosevelt Way and a half-block north of 45th Street..
Below: While I recall the faces and beards of the two on the left at the Helix front door on Harvard Ave., I no longer remember their names. But to the right are Pat Churchill and Tim Harvey. Both contributed to the paper. Tim handled the UPS and LNS selections and edits and also did some of the best reporting for the paper, as well as drama reviews. In our recorded remarks Bill White and I have referred to Tim’s writing often enough. Rereading Tim I wish that I could indicated somehow my admiration. He may still be in Maine but I’ve not found him as yet. I remember that both Pat and Tim often had a cup of coffee in one hand and sometimes a smoke in the other. As did I and almost everybody in the smoke-filled office. But at that time we were eternal.
Above: This Post-Intelligencer press photo, courtesy of MOHAI, is too soft to read all the posters held high in 1948 for this demonstration against the state legislature’s Canwell Committee. The legible ones, left-to-right, read that “Every Canwell Committee member for [the] Lien Law” – “Atom Bombs and military training will not build houses or lower prices!” – “Canwell . . . want more pension cuts!” . . . “The Canwell Committe is illegal, unconstitutional and UnAmerican!” . . . “Every Canwell Committee member voted for Pension Cuts!” The business of the Canwell Committee is briefly described in the “now and then” printed at the bottom. Below: Late summer Bumbershoots are often visited by “get out the vote” activists. Like the 1948 protestors above, these activists do their work beside the south facade of the Centerhouse, AKA Food Circus: the old Armory.
Above: At the 42nd Street entrance to the U.W. students protest the Canwell hearings of 1948. Photo courtesy Museum of History and Industry. Below: The University District’s Methodist Temple is seen in part on the right of both views. Readers may remember the parking lot across 15th Avenue in the “now” scene. It was created in the late 1960s from the wreckage of the old white frame Wesley House – seen in the “then” – which was a residence hall for coeds. The lot was recently developed for housing, with some retail and office space as well. With this the popular and by now venerated Allegro Coffee House in the alley lost both the morning sunlight and its view of the campus green. The Allegro, either the oldest espresso house in Seattle or nearly, opened on May 10, 1975.
REGISTER YOUR PROTEST
(First appeared in Pacific April 20, 2008)
When the University of Washington opened its first classes on the new “Interlake Campus” in 1895 none of the students lived on campus and few in Brooklyn, the name then of the university district. Most came from town by trolley and were let off at “University Station,” 42nd Street and University Way. To reach campus they walked a mere one block east to the incline pictured here, and for many years this was the most frequented way to enter and leave the campus. For pedestrians it may still be.
Since the lawn here is exposed for sightseeing into the ‘district and sunbaths in the afternoon it has seen a lot of leisure through the years. I remember it as “hippie hill” in the late 1960s. Here, however, we see a protest underway on July 15, 1948.
The students are comfortably listening to speeches broadcast from a flatbed truck that is parked on the 15th Ave. You can see the banner near the center of the “then,” and it reads, in part, “Register Your Protest, Hear and Now, the Canwell Committee.” Albert F. Canwell was the one-term state legislator from Spokane who proudly campaigned on two planks only: no new taxes and no communists.
The speakers this noon were Lyle Mercer, president of Students for Henry Wallace of the Progressive Party, Ted Astley, a veteran’s counselor at the UW and Al Ottenheimer of the Seattle Repertory Playhouse, which was just off campus. The Canwell Hearings injured them all. The University fired Astley.
However, the real targets in this “red scare” theatre were on the UW Faculty. After Canwell’s “I will not tolerate questions” proceedings were over, three lost their professorships, scapegoats for the school’s board of trustees who were relieved that the number did not approach what another legislator proclaimed to be the total accounting of communists on the faculty. That was 150: the same as that estimated by The Times for the number of students who attended this barely on-campus protest.
WE POST another colorless MASTHEAD without body as we continue to exercise our RIGHT to RECESS, and include NO NEW HELIX this week as we wait for BILL WHITE to reach his PARAMOUR IN PERU before continuing our weekly commentaries on FRESH ISSUES OF HELIX via SKYPE – or something else that is cheap as well.
For DIVERSION we post now a BILL OF BILLS – SIX BILLS with (unidentified) WOMEN. One of these pairs includes our Bill who is now still on the Caribbean with hundreds of tourists heading for Panama and the passage there from the Old World into the New – so FITTING for our Bill. The remaining Bills are a mix pulled from our growing horde of scans. We may hint at their identities. Some will still know themselves.
Bill on Pike Place with an artist whose last name is the Ocean to which Bill is steaming.Bill with his Bride and very near BallardOur Bill at Bumbershoot with Julie "the torch."Bill with someone's bad eyeBill and his StigmataBlonde on Blonde recently moved to the foothills east of Sacramento.
At different times, two towers have looked down on the neighborhood around Fourth Avenue and Thomas Street. As landmarks go, they can be compared, although hardly. One tower is the city’s present baton, the Space Needle. The other tower belonged to Fire Station No. 4 with in its original form its elegant English-style architecture.
Station No. 4 was built in 1908 and first was occupied on Oct. 15 of that year. Its three grand double doors opened to a steamer, a pump and a hose wagon, all of them horse-drawn. Engine Company No. 4 had moved over from an old clapboard station nearby at Fourth Avenue and Battery Street, which had been razed that year during the Denny Regrade. According to fire service records preserved faithfully by Seattle Fire Department historian Galen Thomaier, only 13 years later the company moved back to Fourth and Battery into yet another new station. It is still there.
For four years following this final move in 1921, the still relatively new but deserted structure was idle until the Seattle Fire Department transferred over it alarm center from the SFD’s old headquarters at Third Ave. and Main Street.
For some reason, when this station was picked for the alarm center, its third-floor gables were cut away. The tower looked awkwardly stranded beside its flattened station before it too was lowered.
Fire Station No. 4 in its original stone-and-brick beauty – as pictured on top – was designed by one of Seattle’s more celebrated historical architect, one best known for his school designs. After James Stephen won a 1902 contest for school design, he was employed as the city’s school architect and designed more than 20 Seattle schools.
Look for . . . the Space Needle. (CLICK TWICE to ENLARGE)Look for the Fire Station, bottom-center. It is depicted in red - for the bricks.
Here looking northeast over Freedom Way, aka Republican Street, this eccentric home's full name was more revealing: the Century 21 Plywood Home of Living Light. It sat on a Center site that has been variously used during the now 40-plus years of Bumbershoot, most often for one of the festival's smaller stages. Sometimes this lawn immediately south of the Exhibition Hall and contiguous to one of the fairs food fairs was free for sprawled eating serenaded by buskers and jamers. Jean's Bumbershoot 2012 repeat reveals an unusually quiet setting on this lawn directly south of the Exhibition Hall. At some point - not remembered here - the covered promenade on Third Avenue (running north-south between the International Fountain and the west end of the Memorial Stadium) was extended thru the site where once shown "living light."
A better photograph of this plywood construction that suggests that it warrants the name is printed on page 247 of The Future Remembered, historylink and the Seattle Center Foundation’s well-wrought book on both Century 21 and Seattle. For its caption the book’s authors, Paula Becker and Alan J. Stein, explain the intentions of this manipulatable construction – and its name too. “In response to projected overpopulation in the future, the Home of Living Light was designed to provide private refuge on small, scarce building lots. Walls of wood paneling, rigid in one direction and flexible in the other, could take any shape while supporting the required roof loads. Four conical skylights located over each major area of the house and could be turned toward or away from the sun to adjust the level of natural lighting.” Hence Living Light!
Although soft on focus this Kodachrome loom east on Freedom Way (Republican Street) from Boulevard West (Second Ave.) puts the Home of Living Light at home, one block east at Boulevard East (Third Ave.) Also showing is the roof-line stage architecture of both the Playhouse, far left, and the Opera House, at the center,
This leaves only the hide-and-seek securer – Ron Edge’s map sandwich – for the reader to peg the Century 21 location for the Plywood Home of Living Light. HINT: Look for the smugged “60” that reads more like “80.”
This small bistro has kept all the soul of rue Mouffetard market.
The name of the bistrot is a pun. Of course, we walk there because the street is pedestrian, and the wine glasses have stems too, it is an opportunity to meet and talk, read the newspaper, eat very well, see exhibitions and raise glasses to our friends …
Ce petit bistrot a gardé toute l’âme du marché de la rue Mouffetard. Bien sûr on y vient à pied car la rue est piétonnière, et les verres à vin sont à pied aussi, c’est l’occasion de se retrouver pour discuter, pour lire le journal, se restaurer superbement, voir des expos, et trinquer à la santé des amis…
Claude Derrien, the owner of the bar and the barman Nicolas
The “now-then” recent feature about the “row house” at the southeast corner of 5th Avenue and Madison Street (now the home of the College Club) triggered this response from Mary and Leslie Norton, descendents of the Reinig family that built it. Read on . . .
As explained in the letter printed below, when this row of Reinig Apartments at the southeast corner of Madison Street and Fifth Avenue was built by the Reinig family ca. 1889 the family home that had taken the corner was moved one lot east up Madison Street, where it can also be seen in its new position here on the far left.
THE LETTER
Hi, Paul,
My sister and I were pleased to see the photo of the houses at 5th and Madison in this week’s Times magazine section.
The Reinig Apartments were built by our great-grandparents, Margarethe and Leonard Reinig; we believe the 1889 date is accurate.
Leonard Reinig came to America in his 20’s from Diedesfeld, Germany, and learned the bakery business in St Louis, and The Dalles, Oregon, where he also learned Chinook. He came to Seattle in 1869 to start his own Seattle Bakery, in a building rented from Henry Yesler on Mill Street (now Yesler Way). This included a delicatessen and he would deliver baked beans and brown bread to customers on Saturday mornings. It is said he produced Seattle’s first bakery cookies, and in 1872, made and sold the city’s first ice cream. Later he and a partner built a two story brick building at 1st and Marion, the Reinig-Voss building, where he ran a grocery in front, a bakery in the rear, and upstairs had a large hall for meetings, concerts and performances.
Our great-grandmother, Margarethe Schafer Reinig, was the daughter of German immigrants from Witterschlicht, Germany, who settled first in Wisconsin, then took up a large farm on the Satsop River, in Grays Harbor county. She met Leonard Reinig when she came to Seattle as a young woman, to work for family friends, the Bailey Gatzert family. After their marriage, they built a home at 5th and Madison, where they raised their three sons, Otto, Dionis (Dio) and Eddie. The family owned this property until surviving sons Dio and Otto sold the land to the College Club in the 1960’s.
In the photo in the paper, the family home (house on the left) has been moved uphill from it’s original site at 5th and Madison, facing Madison, and turned to face 5th Avenue. At this time, the family had already purchased their new home farm in Snoqualmie, and were preparing for a move there in 1890. We are told that in the photo, sons Dio and Eddie are in the buggy, and Otto is on the porch. The horse is Nellie, a fine driving horse that they shipped to Snoqualmie by rail when they moved.
The property where the house was moved was an extra lot that Leonard purchased so that Margarethe could have a small garden and raspberries close at hand. The family also owned land at 12th and Spring, where they had a large garden and kept pasture for the horses. My grandfather (Dio) told us that from the house, they could see the ships coming into the docks; if their father was expecting an order, they could run down to the store to tell him, then up the hill to get the horses, and have the wagon at the pier by the time the ship was docked.
In Snoqualmie, Leonard Reinig opened a grocery store, and ran a farm, while the family kept up business and social interests in Seattle. Later Otto took over the Snoqualmie grocery store, Dio managed the farm, and Eddie, an electrical engineer trained at the California School of Mechanical Arts, worked for Seattle City Light until his tragic death.
Several years ago, our late mother, Leslie Reinig Norton, gave the original plan drawings of the apartment building, and the Reinig-Voss building to the Seattle archives at the University of Washington.
Sue Schafer, our “cousin”, has written an interesting book, “Voices of the Past”, an annotated collection of early letters of Margarethe Schafer Reinig’s family, including correspondence between Margarethe and Leonard and from them to her parents on the farm in Satsop. We are also fortunate to have some written recollections from our grandfather, Dio Reinig.
Thank you for your interest in this photo.
Mary Norton
Leslie J. Norton
The 1884 Sanborn Real Estate Map identifying the building at the southwest corner of Marion and Front (First Ave.) as the Reinig-Voss block with it primary occupant then the Odd Fellows Hall (upstairs)The Reinig-Voss block with its principal tenant, the Golden Rule Bazaar ca. 1887. Note the Odd Fellows symbol - the linked chain - decorating the building's facade, centered above the second floor.A detail pulled from the 1884 Seattle Birdseye with red arrows marking the Reinig home at the southeast corner of Fifth and Madison, upper-right, and their nearly new brick building with a corner tower at the southeast corner of Front (First Ave.) and Marion Street, lower-left.A detail of the detail showing the Reinig-Voss building at the center and across Marion Street the Fry Opera House. Courtesy Ron EdgePre-'89 fire etching of the Fry Opera House at the northeast corner of Marion and Front (First Ave.).The Reinig-Voss building here identified after its primary tenant before the "Great Fire of June 6, 1889," the Golden Rule Bazaar.
This Friday afternoon (April 6, 2012) while visiting the MOHAI library with Ron Edge to process illustrations for the second volume of Rich Berner’s “Seattle in the 20th Century” series, I took a break and revisited the “Repeat Photography” exhibit that Jean, Berangere and I curated. The exhibit opened last April, and so it is now up nearly a year. For it and much else at MOHAI we recommend visiting the museum before the doors are closed mid-June next. I took from the hip snapshots of all the exhibit’s parts and include a very few here to make the point.
Our exhibit is made from four parts: the world (represented by Paris, France), Washington State, Seattle and its Wallingford neighborhood.
The Paris part of the show begins inside the front door. It includes the oldest example of cityscape, a 1838 look down on Boulevard du Temple from Daguerre's Diorama Magic Theatre. Louis Daguerre, the photographer, is considered the parent of photography, sharing his techniques with the French Academy for the honor and a worthy stipend. Click this twice, and you should be able to read the exhibit's own caption on the right. Jean's repeat of the historical view that looks west on the Columbia to Mt Hood from Maryhill shows the same curving grades for the experimental paved road that climbed from the river to the farm plateau above it. Again, the caption - with a few clicks - can be read.The southwest corner of Lake Union before it was filled early in the 20th Century.The map above indicates the route I walked most days for three years beginning in the summer of 2006. In the process I took photographs of about 450 subjects with the same camera and, as best I could, the same composition and position. Some day - I hope - this magnus opus will result in an elaborate presentation of its time photography. At MOHAI about 25 of the subjects are sampled. This sidewalk patch at the southeast corner of Corliss Avenue and 46th Street is one of the 450-plus subjects. A neighbor decorated the patch with small ceramic tiles. The warm lights on top are reflections on the video screen from the exhibit lighting.
Today I also visited many of the museum’s regular exhibits including the “Great Fire of June 6, 1889” mural and a revealing (of age) cross-section of a fallen Douglas Fir.
While Ron continued to do his research in the MOHAI library I took a walk across the MOHAI parking lot to the trail that leads to Foster Island. Below are the bridge to the island and two details taken from very near its west, or MOHAI, end.
At least from the parking lot the best sign that MOHAI is moving is the impressive red van that is parked there. It is marked or signed by the Hansen Bros. movers that started in the University District long ago.
“Looking north from a railroad grade on Washington Street to Simmer's named subject, the corner of Third Ave. and Washington in Vancouver Washington on July 20, 1942. This apparently is Vancouver's auto row during the busy war years when that city was crowded with home front manufacturing, mostly of ships. Through his career Simmer did a lot of shooting for the Washington State Department of Highways. This is one of the subjects that Jean and I chose for our book "Washington Then and Now." We did not, however, use it. - Click TWICE to EnlargeOn a hot day in the summer of 2005 Jean lifted his camera with his 10-foot pole to a grade that approximated that of Simmer's shot from the elevated railroad grade. Jean, however, has moved directly into the once busy corner of 3rd and Washington to show its moribund condition in '05. The 1955 completion of the I-5 freeway thru Vancouver used these blocks for interchanges. They are hidden behind the screen of trees on the right.While visiting Portland to perform in a music and stage production there, Jean stopped by 3rd and Washington in Vancouver on March 16 to study the changes - whatever - that had come down in the nearly seven years since his first visit. The trees have been busy.
These two aerials from June 14, 1939 spot a Boeing Clipper resting at dock in the residential cove between what is now Matthews Beach Park and Discovery Park. They are copied from a collection owned by the courteous Dan Eskenazi thru the help of citizen Ron Edge. [Click TWICE to enlarge]
I enjoyed your article on the Jolly Roger restaurant and remember it well. I read your column every weekend on your web site. In fact I prefer it over the much shorter version in the Times. The Item that really caught my attention was the one about the Boeing Flying Boat.
I came to Seattle in January of 1938 at the age of 6 weeks old. My father had been transferred here by the J.C.Penny C.. He was the head of the advertising and display department of the downtown Penny’s store. In early 1940 we moved into a new house in the NE part of Seattle, just North of the city limits, on 48 Ave NE just off NE 97th. It was just 3 blocks north of “old man” Mathews lake front home (which was later to become the start of Mathews Beach Park). I lived all of my life until 2005 in Seattle and found it a wonderful place to grow up and live. I now live in Snohomish.
My folks told stories about the Jolly Roger and of the Boeing Flying boats taking off from Lake Washington. At the South end of what is now Mathews Beach Park was the staging area for the Boeing Flying boats. It contained work sheds, a reception facility, parking lot, and a very substantial dock running out into the lake past the shoreline sand bar. The dock was so substantial that trucks could be driven out to the plane tied up there. The reception facility had a fireplace, a full kitchen and large open spaces. I don’t know who actually owned the property but after the war it was turned into a water ski club with lots of activities, Bar-B Q’s, beer drinking, and parties on the weekends. We had neighbors that would take us kids down there to water ski and watch the boats.
During the fifties it was turned into community supported swimming and social club. There were no public beaches for swimming and lots of new post war homes in this area at that time. Teenage dances, potlucks, and adult square dancing were the mainstay activates. The area around the facility at that time was mainly small family homes and “old Man” Mathews farm, barn, out buildings, and home. Diagonally across from the entrance to the social club was the home of the Edson’s ( not sure of the spelling). Oren Edson and his brother spent much of their time at the water ski and social club and would later put there boating interest to work. They became the founders of the Bayliner boat company. They honed their entrepreneurial skills by buying mail order fireworks and then retailing them to the neighborhood kids at highly inflated prices. They were the only game in the neighborhood.
This entire neighborhood would eventually be bought up piece by piece, by the city of Seattle, to become what is now Mathews Beach and its parking lots.
I hope I haven’t bored you with my remembrances. Cheers Fred Rowe
Cheers in Return Fred. I read – and published – the whole thing with kind regards.
On Minor Ave. beside Cascade Playfield and CETA Mural, ca.1978Unidentified Wreck circa dated 1912, by evidence of its photo album.Unidentified, 1916Unidentified, 1938Unidentified, 1940
“We add this in response to a letter from Sandy* I'd forgotten. It seems to be an antique dealer's loading platform but mixed with sales. *By Sandy's Demand - CLICK to ENLARGE
Jean has enlightened me concerning the fate of items added to any of our posts. Depending upon the timing, some readers will never see them. The reason is that the original contents of a posting – and this part is mysterious still to me – are copied by entities, which then share them with others who ask for them. The mysterious but still mighty servers are only interested in “beginnings” and do not write over or add the additions to their original copies of the page. They resemble teachers who will not take late changes – including additions – to a term paper. And so you see the problem of adding information – mostly illustrations – later on. Consequently, we here add addenda (or addendums, if you prefer) fresh and at the blog’s top as late additions to the Riverside story that appears in its greater part below Jean’s restaurant review of Green Lake’s Trattoria Cioppino, which is just below.
Hotel West, but not dated. To the rear, I believe, of Hotel West where something is smoking, right-of-center, April 12, 1923.Hotel West with pile driver from bridge work - not dated - and the profile of Pigeon Point.Map of Pigeon Point from 1895. (Not so long ago)Pigeon Point - and more - from a 1931 Sanborn real estate map. Looking west from Pigeon Point over W. Spokane Street - and the Youngstown Viaduct for trolleys - to West Seattle - July 6, 1931. (Courtesy Municipal Archive)Looking West on W. Spokane Street below Pigeon Point. On top the regraded Pigeon Point appears at the top left corner in a 1930 look from the Youngstown Viaduct, which also includes the Shanghai's alluring promise of dancing to live music. Bottom, the Shanghai has become Marty's Tavern (see the next same day pix below) recorded from the Spokane Street grade in 1962. (Courtesy of the Southwest Seattle Historical Society.)
In the last Seattle Now and Then contribution – Jan. 15, this year – we included a feature titled “Dear Old Seattle.” It was a quote taken from one of the many letters sent by Fred Stanley Auerbach, the young man pictured above, to his parents in the east. As explained, Auerbach was visiting here looking for the best investment chances for family money. Archivist-historian Greg Lange uncovered the letters several years ago and we copied them. Auerbach stayed in the Seattle Hotel, using its stationary. He liked the hotel but in one letter he considers moving to less expensive quarters. We have pulled a few pages – only – from the many that are collected in a bound album. Auerbach was here in 1906, still the time of Seattle’s greatest booming. His handwriting is negotiable and his descriptions often lively. “This is the damnedest town I ever saw . . . I never was in a city in my life where I felt such a stranger and I think the reason is that nobody has been here long enough to feel at home . . . It is all business. You couldn’t imagine anyone saying ‘dear old Seattle.’ If you ask anyone on the street where such and such a street is, one out of every three will say ‘I don’t know I am a stranger myself.’ ” (The letters, as I pulled them, are not always in the order he wrote them.)
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Auerbach came west on the Canadian Pacific Railroad and crashed with it. The top of the two remaining selections describes, in part, that adventure. The last letter witnesses to another crash – a “remarkable accident” – at a Seattle intersection.
First, Ron Edge – of our Edge Clippings – comments that Frank Shaw’s unidentified shoreline Gazebo (somewhere on Puget Sound) is prefigured with the Madrona Park gazebo. Following that comparison, we include four panoramas of work-in-progress on the Jackson Street Regrade. One of the four is a completion of the half-pan shown here with the Dec. 24 feature on the regrade, which looked northwest into it from near the southeast corner of 7th and Weller. Taken as a cluster the four pans are very revealing and exquisite for study. (They are used courtesy of the Seattle Public Library.)
For comparison one of Frank Shaw's two recordings of the just off-shore Gazebo.The Madrona Park gazebo reached by a steep trail from the park's Lake Washington shoreline. The park was outfitted early in the 1890s to lure riders on the Union Trunk Line's service from Pioneer Square to the park and its attractions. This view by Otto Frasch was photographed ca. 1908. In the intervening years the rustic shelter has grown ragged at the roof. (Courtesy Ron Edge)The bandstands nearby at Madison Park were also examples of park gazebos built by commercial developers - in this case the Madison Street Cable Railway - to attract customers on to the trollies, to the park's attractions, and the surrounding real estate. Lake Washington excursions were also part of the lure, and Madison Park was for many years the easiest way to get by launch to Laurelhurst.
The JACKSON STREET REGRADE ADDENDUM (for Dec. 24, 2011)
CLICK TWICE TO ENLARGE
This printing completes with its left half the full panorama included in the Dec. 24 feature. The photo was taken on Oct. 30, 1908 from the roof of the then new New Central Hotel at the southeast corner of Weller Street and Maynard Avenue. It looks east up Weller from above the alley between Maynard and 7th Ave..Like the pan above it this one was photographed on Oct. 30, 1908. Both were commissioned by Lewis and Wiley Inc, the contractors for the regrade. This view looks south from near Jackson and 7th, and so through the site once held by Holy Names Academy on the east side of 7th between Jackson and King. Note the Beacon Hill horizon. The New Central Hotel shows on the far right. It was the prospect for the first pan, the one shown above this pan. Note also that tidewater still reaches a shoreline at the foot of Beacon Hill. South School is far left, but not for long. Weller street was used temporarily as a route for trolleys to the Rainier Valley, and a trolley or perhaps two can be found in this pan.In this, the earliest pan, Holy Names Academy is still intact, far left. The pipe line close to Weller street runs below the bluff, which will soon be reduced by means of the pipe's cannonade of water blasts. This may be compared to the primary photo used in the Dec. 24 now-then feature, which shows the Academy in ruins. The pans own caption (bottom-right) is in one part blurred, however, most likely it reads, "April 9, 1909 Looking west from 12th between King and Weller." If this is so then here the regreaders have reached the "summit" of the ridge and it has been subdued. Note the Great Northern Depot tower on the center horizon.
The street scene below were all recorded by Victor Lygdman during the summer of 1961. Born in Seattle in 1927, Victor live in the Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle for most of his life, and was an activist there with one of the early food banks. He was also one of a handful of locals who were sometimes refered to as the "Mayor of Wallingford." He explained that he gave the name to himself. "Actually, I went out on 45th and Wallingford one morning at 6:00 a.m. and I said, 'I am the mayor.' I didn't hear a voice of dissent so I declared myself official Mayor of Wallingford." He was a fixture - a moving one. Victor may have got his first camera in his twenties. He also liked to paint and write. Having known him I suspect he may have also once done some acting. Victor had a long and creative life. He died on Feb. 13, 2010. We'll sometimes put up his photographs under the Seattle Confidential tag, although he was pretty good about at least dating his negatives. The above looks to me like a formal high school portrait, which would date it from the mid-40s. (Click Them TWICE to Enlarge Them)
To me the above gent holding a paper looks something like the old Capitol Hill Times Editor of the 40th thru the 70s, Louis Magrini.
The one looks east on Pine toward its intersection with 3rd Ave. The facades of both the Bon and Frederick and Nelson show on the left.
This gent at least resembles Louis Magrini, the long-time editor of the Capitol Hill Times. More likely that it is the newsman tending the sales box for the daily pulps.
Some of these required, it would seem, some snapping with quick withdrawal. When I first attempted to include this, my computer denied me, explaining that the image was withheld for “security reasons.” In the tone or temper of the times, “National Security?” I thought – seeing the sailor. Then checking the file I discovered that the “jpeg” ID had not yet been affixed.
Horace Sykes made many Kodachrome copies of paintings, and he especially liked genre and regional art. Included are a few examples, like this, of Alaskan artist Sydney Lawrence. Actually, Lawrence was born in Brooklyn in 1865, and spent most of the 1890s painting in England, a member of an artist's colony in Cornwall. He exhibited widely then and even won a prize at the Paris Salon of 1894. But in 1904 me made the very big change of moving to Alaska. Eventually he wound up in Anchorage, when it was still a small town, and for a quarter-century until his death in 1940 kept painting and building the reputation as Alaska's primary painter of, of course, Alaskan subjects, like this one. It is certainly possible to see some of same big sky urges that also moved Sykes with his own picturesque slides. (Click to Enalarge)
For Horace Sykes a rare city subject - the brand new Seattle Post-Intelligencer building got his attention. The P-I with its globe entered service for Seattle's oldest daily pulp in 1948 and remained here at 6th and Wall until 1988 when the Hearst vehicle moved nearer the shores of Elliott Bay and took its ball with it. (Here we will whisper "iconic.") As then suspected, it was the P-I's second big step to dissolution. The first was its "Joint Operating Agreement" with The Seattle Times. The JOL was launched in 1983 before the move. At the time persons working both at The Times and The P-I foresaw the failure of the P-I and wore special t-shirts lamenting their premonitions. And yet - to indulge a strict mixing of metaphors - it took a quarter-century for the folding to unfold. (Click to Enlarge)
Since 1984, on the third week-end of September, during the Open Days we can visit the National and Private Heritage : monuments, churches, theaters, castles, and also stop in garage sale in the street…
Depuis 1984 , au troisième week-end de Septembre, durant les Journées Portes Ouvertes on peut visiter le Patrimoine National et Privé : monuments, églises, théâtres, châteaux, et aussi s’arrêter dans les vide-greniers dans les rues…
The Mobile Art Pavilion
Le Pavillon du Mobile Art
One day in April, the Mobile Art Pavilion capsule has landed on the front of the Institut du Monde Arabe in the 5th arrondissement, its architecture is unique and very contemporary, it is signed by the Anglo-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid. Inside, we can discover her projects, achievements and models.
Un jour d’avril, la capsule du pavillon Mobile Art a atterri sur le parvis de l’Institut du Monde arabe dans le 5 ème arrondissement, son architecture est singulière et très contemporaine, elle est signée par l’architecte anglo-irakienne Zaha Hadid. A l’intérieur, on peut découvrir ses projets, ses réalisations et leur maquettes.
Palais de Salm, Paris 7th
One of the Sphinx of the Hotel de Salm in front of the Palace of the Legion of Honor, which served as a model for the construction of the Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.
Une des Sphinges de l’Hôtel de Salm abritant le Palais de la Légion d’Honneur qui servi de modèle à la construction du palais de la Légion d’Honneur à San-Francisco.
Bourse du Commerce, Paris 1st
Here is America, painted in 1886, it is one part of the fresco in the Exchange Trade dome, 1400M2 wide, symbolizing the international trade. In the sky Christopher Columbus ‘s caravel fleet, this mural evokes the dynamism of civilization on the march meeting indigenous people.
Ici l’Amérique , peinte en 1886, une des parties de la fresque de 1400M2 de la coupole de la Bourse du Commerce qui symbolise le commerce international. Dans le ciel flotte la caravelle de Christophe Colomb, cette fresque évoque le dynamisme de la civilisation en marche à la rencontre des populations indigènes.
Garage sale rue de la Banque Paris 2nd
Vide-grenier rue de la Banque Paris 2nd
Garage sale Place des Petits Pères, Paris 2nd
The Oratoire 145, rue Saint Honoré Paris 1st
On that special week-end you can meet the organist of the Oratoire and visit all the building of the church.
Durant ce week-end exceptionnel, on peut rencontrer l’organiste de l’Oratoire, et visiter l’église de fond en comble
Or you can make photos at the door of Saint Germain L’Auxerrois Paris 1st
Ou faire des photos à l’entrée de saint Germain-l’Auxerrois
Berangere has sent us four photos of the Space Needle (or in it). She recorded them while touring Seattle with her guide Jean, shown here sitting in the Needle, now 49 years old. We may imagine how a visitor’s vision of the things we know as commonplace is not so tired as our own. For instance, seeing the top of the needle from the waterfront foot of Broad Street is mildly uncanny if you are not inured to the Needle.
Here, just found, is another Sykes snap of the Whitman Monument (just west of Walla Walla) that shows, perhaps, his classical intentions. Here he has managed to almost juxtapose the needle on the moon with a care for symmetry.
Although this slide - and it is not a Kodachrome - comes from the Horace Sykes collection, we will not give it an "Our Daily Sykes" number. Rather Horace Sykes' "lightshow" lets you know that this week we have no NOW and THEN because Pacific Magazine is featuring the show we curate that opened yesterday April 9 at the Museum of History and Industry. Since the Pacific Story is a unique creation of the newspaper staff taking examples of the now-then features from the past, but then also featuring Ron Edge and the work he did on the 1912 Baist real estate map included in this blog, we will not post anything here of what they have done there. We'll be back next week with another elaboration of the now-then featured then in Pacific. For the moment we encourage you to visit MOHAI, although you have some indefinite time into 2012 before the REPEAT PHOTOGRAPHY show or exhibit is closed with the old museum. It is being razed after 60 years of service and replaced with the new additions to the Evergreen Floating Bridge. Next year MOHAI will, we suspect you know, be moving to the naval armory at the south end of Lake Union. Now we will conclude with more on Sykes. His "lightshow" is exceptional. Nothing else appears in his collection that is anything like it. And, as noted, it is not a Kodachrome, but a slide that used a color process that did not hold - the slides like it (landscapes all) have all faded to the point that Photoshop thinks that they are black and white records. Except for this one, which has kept some of whatever color it once started with. (Still CLICK to ENLARGE)
An old friend experienced with the lifts, downhills and mountains around Snoqualmie Pass called me and suggested that my description of Guys peak as resembling a “pile of sugar” in the winter was a poor analogy for Guys peak is in places – like those facing motorists and skiers at the lodge beside the highway – too steep to hold snow. In the worst and coldest of snowfalls it might resemble a sculpted scoop of Rocky Road Ice Cream but never a pile of pure sugar. We accept this admonishment and print below several looks at Guys Peak, all of them by the “postcard artist” Ellis and none of them showing Guys behaving like any shape of sugar. Guys, if you don’t already know, is the forward peak that resembles a pile of sugar, or would if it could hold on to it. (Thanks to Ellis collector John Cooper for sharing these scenes.) I will conclude the list with one by Jean, taken while we were working on the book Washington Then and Now. CLICK TWICE TO ENLARGE
We wonder. Is this a bird at hand in a cage - did Horace "capture" this predator in a zoo? Or did he stumble upon it on his Kodak trail? This is, I think, a member of your common Golden Eagle lodge. A friend's pet? (Click to Enlarge)
Many have learned thru caldendars, post cards, and such that this is what a mountain range should look like. And it is telling, perhaps, that Horace Sykes did not take any “liberties” with the Teton Range, but instead simply stood on the eastern shore of Jackson Lake and took his obligatory and obedient recording of it. Mt Moran is on the rigiht, and the Cathedral Group with the Grand Teton above it all is on the left. Horace looks to the southwest. (Click to Enlarge)
Ordinarily one looks at the wonders of Bryce Canyon from the edge of it. Here Horace has noticed the line of characters watching him approach on a path. They stand like stock characters in a Commedia dell’arte. There, perhaps, are the boasting solider, the cuckolded husband, the disobedient servant, the jester, the helpless damsel, the scheming Turk, and the hunchback Punchinello. Add your own stock character. Its up to you to decide which is which. Take your time. They are in no hurry. And click to enlarge.
November 27th last we published a photo essay – or several – that gathered around the subject of candid street photography. We began with pictures of our friend Clay Eals’ mother Virginia Slate Eals snapped on Seattle streets during the Second World War. Now Clay has found a few more examples from out of town and we happily add them with his captions. The top two have come from Donna Crowe, his co-worker at Encompass in North Bend. Donna is pictured as a child in the second image. From Clay’s many years as editor of the West Seattle Herald we know that they will be spelled and punctuated correctly.
William and Mary Lamont, residents of Saltair (east coast of Vancouver Island), B.C., stroll arm in arm along Yates St in Victoria, B.C., Canada, sometime in the 1940s.Della Rooney tries to keep up with daughters Diane (older, left) and Donna as they walk along Columbia Street in New Westminster, B.C., Canada, in 1950. Florence Slate, my grandmother, walking in downtown Nashville, Tennessee, on Dec. 8, 1946. (Clay explains that this probably was during a visit that Florence and her husband, Joe, Clay's grandfather, made to Joe's hometown of Red Boiling Springs, Tennessee.)
We’ll finish the quartet with another of Clay’s mom, but this time not in Seattle.
On the right my mom, Virginia Slate, and her friend, Joan Sampson, walking in downtown Victoria, B.C. in 1945. (We edited Editor Clay's description of his mother's sunglasses in this photograph as "kind of odd and off-putting." Au contraire, we think those glasses add to her confident-looking allure.)
(What follows is lifted from “Keep Clam” a work-in-progress on the life of Ivar and Ivar’s. This is part of the longer of two books, and will appear somewhat polished only on the net. The smaller book will be published between covers and available early in 2012. The longer book will begin to appear on its own webpage sometime early next year and “with many extreas” including recordings, video bits, and a reading of the serial installments by the author for those who like to be read to.)
MEETING TED ABRAMS & GUY WILLIAMS
In her revealing memoir “Wash Your Hearts with Laughter”, following her description of meeting Ivar at a Theosophy meeting, Maggie introduces Ted Abrams, the brilliant craftsman, cook, collector and raconteur. “We became friends with the most interesting man two young and green people could associate with.” Raised in a southern Jewish family, Abrams came to Seattle a short time before World War One. He escaped the war years living in Japan, working as a buyer for Seattle’s Frederick and Nelson Department store. Otherwise Ted Abrams lived in Seattle until his death in 1942. In a recorded conversation with Emmett Watson and Guy Williams, Ivar begins to describe Abrams, until Williams interrupts him. “Allow me to interpolate. Abrams! I’ll swear he knew everything.” Ivar continues, “He was a genius.” Guy Williams, Ivar’s college friend and sometimes his press agent as well, was encyclopedic on his own. As a young boy he was already an accomplished auto-dictate. Growing up in the gypo lumber camps that his dad managed, Williams read a multi-volume encyclopedia from A to Z and it would seem he remembered much of it.
Ivar and Maggie Haglund with Ted Abrams, rolling his tobacco. 1938
Ivar and Maggie met Abrams at his Club Mauve on First Hill. Abrams was both the chef and the entertainer with a gift for rendering blues and gospel music he learned growing up in Savanna, Georgia. Maggie credits Abrams with inspiring Ivar to a more earnest life as a folklorist and songwriter. Club Mauve was designed around Abrams own collection of antiques and exotic art. The young couple was so taken with him that when Abram’s club fell victim of the wrecking ball they invited him to join them in West Seattle. After first distinguishing the old Haglund home on 59th Ave. SW with decorative brick work, Abrams built his own home from salvaged materials on a lot that Ivar donated across a Horton Street that was more an alleyway than a street. A visit to Abrams charmed construction became a kind of pilgrimage for members of Seattle’s Bohemian community in the 1930s. Artist William Cummings recalled the interior of Abrams home in his published, Sketchbook – A Memoir of the 30s of the Northwest School. “The house was crammed with paintings, drawings, sculpture, etchings and first-edition volumes signed by names famous and infamous. Ted managed to live just above the alleged level of poverty with an aristocratic grace that seldom showed the strained and stressed crevices of daily life.”
Ted Abrams rustic but tight home across Horton "alley" from Ivar and Maggie's West Seattle home. The photograph was lifted from the 1937 tax inventory of King County structures.I took this photograph of Ivar's and Maggies home on 59th in 2003, my last visit. It was torn down last year for something "greater and taller" - or what is the developer's cliche for this? The ornamental brick work that can be seen behind the bushes and in some decay. It was the work of Ted Abrams.
MEETING IVAR & THE BEES
Another visit to Ted Abrams home is recounted in Bill Cumming’s memoir. It is titled for our subject, “Ivar Haglund.” He might have titled it “Meeting Ivar Haglund” for nearly a half-century later he notes that their bumping “remains vivid” and a bit creepy.
On a spring Sunday afternoon Cumming accompanied Ken and Margaret Callahan aboard their Model A for a visit to Abrams little salvaged manse next door to Ivar’s and Maggie’s place. Abrams’ “tiny astonishingly fragile and graceful elderly nymph” of a sister had moved from Georgia to help take care of her fading brother, (Anguished, Cumming could not remember her name.) and the pair accompanied the Callahans for a visit to the nearby Alki Point. Cumming stayed behind, to explore Abrams’ library and watch his cat Mike “who dozed in a corner while I curled up in a big chair engrossed in a book.” The stage was set for meeting Ivar. Cumming continues.
“I was raised from the chair by a thunderous knocking on a fragile door, which threatened to collapse under the attack. Before I could open it, the door sprang open and on the threshold stood another short stocky figure in ample flesh, pale eyes set over drooping lower lids. At the moment the whole apparition gave off an air of general hysteria. ‘I’m sorry to bother you. My name’s Ivar Haglund and I live next door. I’m a friend of Ted’s and the Callahans’.” Cummings replied, “Yes. They speak of you a lot.” However, before he could complete his observation, Ivar “blurted out, ‘Listen! You wouldn’t know how to get rid of a room full of bees, would you? I mean an entire room full, my bedroom!’ . . . Driven by a Spartan sense of duty I walked back with him to his yard. Creeping through the long grass for all the world like marauding Indians in a B Western, we gained the relative safety of the wall of his house directly beneath the bedroom window, which gaped slightly open. From within floated the ominous hum of multitudinous wings, a hum of anger and threat. Rising up until our eyes just cleared the sill, we gazed into the room, then froze in terror and abject fear. The room was indeed filled with bees, flying, standing on edges and ledges, crawling over bed covers, crawling into and out an hollow containers, into lampshades, out of pillowcases . . . In front of our eyes, barely out of striking distance, the sill was three deep in black and yellow malcontents who glared balefully into our eyes, not yet collected enough to launch themselves across the scant inches between us. Hurriedly we ducked back down and retreated on all fours through the grass, praying that we would not be hit by a sudden raid from the rear.
“Regaining the safety of Ted’s porch, I slumped in a chair, while Ivar wandered off in search of someone who might be of practical help. My only suggestion was to burn the house down. I never met Ivar again. In fact, I never really found out if it actually was Ivar or not. If it’s of any significance to scholars, he wasn’t carrying a guitar.”
(The above was written – often copied – during a blizzard sent early from Canada this Monday evening, November 22, 2010. This morning the 93 year old Bill Cummings died, and the community lost thereby one of its great raconteurs. He had hosted his last painting class in his home a week earlier. Last Friday our mutual friend the pianist-producer Margaret Margason serenaded Bill. She brought with her to Bill’s home some romantic Robert Schumann and some Beatles, and he requested the latter, which she both played and sang. At the time he was reading again the Jeeves novels by the English humorist P. G. Wodehouse. About one month ago Bill celebrated his last birthday with the Margasons at their Wallingford home. A few days earlier I had found in a collection of negatives recorded by the artist Victor Lygdman a series of “artist at work” portraits of Bill that Victor took in the earlier 1960s. Six of these are included below.)
The dustjacket for Bill Cumming's 1984 memoir, published by the Univesity of Washington Press. Although most likely "out of print" it may be checked out of libraries and probably found on line as a used book. (Click to ENLARGE)
Bill Cumming, age 93, died this morning of congestive heart failure. He held his last painting class at his home last Monday. On Thursday his friend Margaret Margason serenaded Bill. She brought with her high romantic music for Soprano by Robert Schumann and a Beatles songbook. This time Bill chose the Beatles – for a sing-along. The six portraits of the artist “in process” were photographed in the mid-60s by Victor Lygdman, who died earlier this year of the relatively “mere” age of 83. Victor was born ten years after Bill.
Another sidewalk capture by Victor Lygdman, and most likely from 1962. Now separated by nearly a half-century from these costumes it is easier to imagine them all as studied and chosen with care. Lygdman is pointing northwest from the southeast corner of 3rd Ave. and Pine Street, where briefly from 1903 to 1906 a block-long counterbalance trolley climbed north to the front door of the Denny/Washington Hotel, which straddled 3rd Avenue between Stewart and Virginia Streets, almost 100 feet higher than this grade.The block-long trolley can be seen here in profile near the middle of the scene. The view looks west on Pine from 4th Avenue during the regrade of Pine in preparation for taking away the southern hump or summit of Denny Hill, north from here to Virginia Street. The trolley's southern "insertion" or anchor at Pine has been disassembled. The Fire Station, on the right, sits at the northeast corner of 3rd and Pine. The likely date for this is 1906 after the hotel was closed that spring. The caption at the bottom of the print may be misleading. The photograph is more about the Pine Street regrade than the 3rd Avenue regrade. The Fire Station, now on the far left, has survived the razing of most of Denny Hill's front hump, although some of the hill survives at the center of the scene where 4th Avenue still climbs the southeast flank - but not for long. That too will soon be lowered (eroded with water jets actually) down to the present grade, then as far east as 5th Avenue only, where the regrading stopped until 1929. This scene is from ca.1908. It looks north into the regrade from the south side of Pine, closer to 3rd avenue than to 4th and so quite close to the corner taken by the women in the top photograph, only some 54 years later.The trolley appears here on the left above the roofline of the big hotels neighbors - a row of houses that face 4th Avenue at the southwest corner of Stewart.
This street snapshot by Victor Lydgman (1927 to 2010) looks north on Second Avenue from its intersection with Pike Street, the southwest corner. Undated, the negative is yet part of a packet of consecutively numbered negatives, some of them dated 1962, the likely date for this too. The sun is to the northwest and so later in the afternoon and throwing long shadows. One of these shadows lends us “Unintended Effects #4” and waits on a reader to unravel its mysteries. The right leg (here on the left) of the tall and/or slender woman, left of center, seen here in profile, is planted on the pavement and throws an appropriate shadow to the east-southeast – like all other shadows at this time and in this place. The left leg is beginning its lifting motion that puts the toe – only – in touch with the sidewalk. It too castes a shadow – but an uncanny one. The shadow appears to originate to the left of the toe, and so on the sun’s side of the foot. Since this is not possible – that that part of the shadow be cast by the left leg or foot – what then is casting that shadow – or that part of it in front of the shoe? In all respects it looks like the darkness in front (to the left and west) of the shoe is continuous with the shadow behind the foot. There is also no blending of the shadows thrown by the left and right legs. Although they come close to touching or closing off the light between them, they do not. The darkness in front of the left foot does not look like a stain or something inserted into the pavement for, for instance, a utility. What and how is it? (Click to Enlarge)
Here’s a correction sent by Fleet encyclopedist Rex Lee Carlaw who has been studying the Puget Sound fleet since he was a child.
Dear Paul,
Thanks for “The Fleet.”
Note: KEHLOKEN, not Kehlokin
Tahlequah, not Tahlequa
(But I don’t know if it can be edited.)
KALAKALA ran Port Angeles – Victoria until 1959, and TILLIKUM came on line in 1959, so that dates this. It does have errors though. SAN MATEO is missing; she ran Edmonds-Kingston. KLAHANIE ran Edmonds-Kingston and Fauntleroy-Vashon-Southworth, not Mukilteo-Columbia Beach. KEHLOKEN ran Seattle-Winslow, not Edmonds-Kingston.
This was the year I started riding the Edmonds-Kingston route regularly (I was 7). My parents bought a beach house (now at the foot of Lindvog Rd.) on 01 July that summer.
Rex
This appeared here first last Setp 27 under "Mixed Addendum for the . . ."And to set the rudder straight or straighter here's another fleet montage shown earlier here - on Sept 27 under "Mixed Addendums . . . "
Two features or insertions ago under the title "Queen Anne Addendum #3 - Faux France . . . The Overland Westerners" we introduced a variety of state capitol buildings a century ago while touching on the dogged ride of four horsemen for three years and 20,000 miles. Now we will continue this story with some more portraits of the horsemen posing with capitols and - when they could rouse them - their governors. Arizona became the 48th contiguous state three months before the horsemen left Bainbridge Island for Olympia, their first stop. I think it unlikely that they carried a camera, and so were dependent upon photographers connected with the local press, contacts they tried to make all along their 20,000 mile way. About 30 photographs of state houses survive and but two of these have professional imprints. None of the recorded state houses are directly named. With two of them you may be able to figure out from evidence on or to the sides - those imprints. Of course, none of the governors are named either. (With a few hours - or less - on Goggle most of the state houses, at least, could be identified. Please go ahead.) We will also include a variety of ephemera produced for and during this strange adventure. (This collection came my way for copying many years ago through the help of Old Seattle Paperworks in the lower level of the Pike Place Market, and now the net furnishes a nifty way to share it. Thanks John.) CLICK TO ENLARGE
First page draft for a 1964 recounting of the story.
A Providence R.I. excerpt from a trek diary.How they survived - card sales and charity from some livery stables.
This letter from one governor to another was one of the tricks use by the quartet to smooth their often rough journey.Another first page for 1964 retelling of the horse-haul story.
Boston Diary Sept. 22, 1913. Rain, a busy governor, and more charity from the livery.
This portrait includes a clue to the state.This shares a clue too.That the four horsemen made it through their three year self and horse promotion was because of lucky health, occasional compassion on the road, and a confidence - unfounded as it turned out - regarding the consequences. The glory and rewards they expect to greet them at the 1915 worlds fair in San Francisco did not materialize. Heroic riders out of the once commonplace but in 1915 rapidly receding horse culture - and their droppings - were neither warmly greeted nor rewarded at the grand front door to the Panama Pacific International Exposition. There would be no horse show. A short summary of the trip and some of its hardships and touchstones can be had at http://www.thelongridersguild.com/Overland.htm
Catching the Studebaker billboard on the side of the commercial structure snuggled to the towering church, upper-left, we confessed our uncertainty that all four photos in this montage of Army-related snapshots were photographed in France while Ralph Johnson was saving the world for democracy but rather somewhere that prescribed English for signage. Now Matthew Eng makes it 50% (for the moment) by identifying the upper-right photograph on this page of Johnson's album as the state capitol of Minnesota in St. Paul. Perhaps the American doughboys were acclimatizing for the winter weather of France with a stopover in St. Paul. (We also learn from other sources -aka Google - that the two spire church upper-left is St. Paul's Assumption Catholic Church. And now I learn that Matthew has also identified the church and more. The pix bottom right "is of the old St. Paul City Hall and Courthouse (http://srfminneapolis.org/Images/PYinMN/St%20Paul%20City%20Hall%201900.jpg). Perhaps the fourth image was taken at nearby Fort Snelling?") To check Eng's catch on the capitol we consulted a collection of state capitols in our keep featuring the "Overland Westerners" attempts to visit every state capitol in the country in 1912-13. The Overland Westerners from Washington State take a 1912 pose before the state capitol of Minnesota in St. Paul. (Courtesy Old Seattle Paperworks in the Pike Place Market, Lower Level)The four horsemen of Washington, aka The Overland Westerners, published this hand-out to promote and celebrate their attempt to visit every state capitol in their saddles and hopefully pose with the governors too.
SEVEN more CAPITOLS from the HORSE RIDE – ALL UNIDENTIFIED & THE GOVERNORS TOO!
Not Ralph Waldo but his friends examining a negative and pouring a chemical, two darkroom routines that do not always require a red light darkness. This comes from Ralph's album and it may be or may not be his darkroom in Lower North Queen Anne, aka South Fremont and Ross. Ralph Waldo Johnson at the door to his darkroom to the rear of the family home on Etruria.
THE JOHNSON HOME at 169 ERTURIA
Like any mill town “Greater Fremont” was once scattered with modest residences. Of the many that survive, a few have been mercifully spared the trauma of remodeling and appear today much as they did in the 1890s.
One example is the Johnson home at 169 Etruria near the south end of the Fremont Bridge. This is the smaller section of Fremont that climbs the north slope of Queen Anne Hill and somewhere along the way leaves the mill town for the hill town. (Since I last visited the site the home in 1991 it has been effectively walled away from the sidewalk and street, as testified with Jean’s recent return to Etruria.)
Ion Johnson married Ellen Maud O’Grady in 1893. They had a son, Ralph Waldo, who purchased a camera and built a darkroom in the backyard shed. The first of Ralph Johnson’s pictures above is of the family home. As noted it was scanned from a photo album that survives with the home. The darkroom-shed is also still standing – or rather was when last I visited 19 years ago.
Johnson’s album is packed with rare glimpses into the life of his neighborhood during the construction years of the ship canal and the bascule Fremont Bridge. The album is also a confession of one young adult male’s interests in boats, women, and motorcycles. The album’s last pages are filled with snapshots Johnson made as an infantryman in France, or on his way to France. Badly gassed in the trenches, he was predisposed to respiratory illnesses the rest of his life. He died of pneumonia in 1980 at age 87.
Looking north from teh Johnson's front porch to Etruria's insertion at Nickerson. West on Etruria from Nickerson. The Johnson front yard and sidewalk are on the far left.
By his friends’ descriptions, Ralph Waldo was a natty man who loved opera, the theater and dining out. Good-humored and generous, he was active in the Puget Sound Maritime Historical Society and sometimes wrote for its publication, the Sea Chest.
Inside the Johnson home. The profile on the lad in the rocker does not look like Ralph, but then he is taking the picture. That may be the photorapher's mother in the light of the window.
As an adolescent Ralph briefly worked as a candy boy on the celebrated Puget Sound steamer Yosemite until his mother overheard some of the language used on deck. Waldo’s father, lon, died in the early 1920s, but his mother continued to live in the family home until her death in the mid-1940s. Thereafter Waldo’s only sibling, his younger sister Beryl, lived there until her death left the little home to Waldo alone. Heirless, Ralph Waldo Johnson willed his family home to Margaret Wilhelmi, the daughter of a close friend. She has protected (still in 1991) both the little residence’s architectural integrity and Waldo’s revealing photo album.
(Next we visit the home of Ralph’s neighbor Annie Craig, and conclude with a sample of other scenes pulled from Johnson’s surviving album of youthful snapshots.)
[PLEASE CLICK to ENLARGE]
ANNIE CRAIG’S HOME on FLORENTIA
Ralph Waldo captions this recording of his neighbor, “Mrs Craig, 1915.” However terse, this is a good lead. The Polk Directory for 1915 reveals that an Annie Craig, widow of Charles, lived at 200 Florentia at the north end of Queen Anne Hill near the Fremont bridge. The woman standing here with her birds is surely that Annie Craig. She lived across the alley from Ralph Waldo’s home on Etruria, and her young neighbor took this snapshot and printed it in his darkroom shed on the alley.
Searching back and forth from 1915 through other Polk directories reveals that Anna and Charles Craig moved to Florentia in the late 1890s from a home on the other side of Queen Anne Hill, at 232 First Ave. W., about three blocks north of Denny Way. Charles is first listed there in 1890. His 1899 registry is more elaborate; he is tabbed as a tallyman for the Stetson and Post Lumber Company. That 1899 recording is ‘Charles Craig’s last. Following directories list Anna (or Annie) Craig as his widow.
In the 1909 Polk Directory, Anna is identified as vice president for the Flatow Laundry Company on First Avenue in Belltown. The directory also reveals that Isador Flatow, the president, lived at 69 Etruria, or just up the alley from Annie.
After that listing, there is nothing to quickly learn about Annie Craig except that she nurtured a most inviting flower garden and had more than one parrot to adorn it.
“Annie Craig (widow Chas) 200 Florentia” is last listed in the 1921 city directory.
Ralph left no caption for this enchanting tableau of costumed flower-arrangers.Ralph Johnson recorded the collapse of the Fremont Bridge after the lake's dam broke in 1914, sent a flood into Salmon Bay and lowered Lake Union by about seven feet putting many houseboats on the lake bottom - although still tied to shore. The Stone Way Bridge taken by Johnson from the Fremont Bridge or near it. The Stone Way Bridge connected Westlake with Stone Way as a detour for trolleys - mostly - before and during the construction years of the Fremont Bascule Bridge. It was built in 1911 and razed in 1917. Beyond it and to the left is the barrel factory that survives as a marina, although reclad. The Gasworks are also evident and a horizon line made from Capitol Hill's long northern slope. This is, perhaps, the only (or one of two) photograph in Ralph's book of snapshots that was taken by a commercial photographer. It looks north through the old Fremont Bridge to Fremont in 1903. B. F. Day school is on the horizon. Digging the canal through Fremont in 1915. The view looks west towards Ballard's mills and the open Northern Pacific Railroad's bridge near 8th Ave. West.A "fifty ton beam" used in the construction of the Fremont Bascule Bridge. Bridge work goes forward on the far left. The Fremont lumber mill is directly across the lake, and B.F.Day school tops the center horizon.July 4, 1917 dedication day for the Lake Washington Ship Canal. Ralph took this photo across the Fremont section of the canal from the south shore - a spot near his family home.Ralph Waldo beside his motorcycle and posing for someone on the red brick road to Bothell. This was the primary highway that then made connection with the sunset highway to Snoqualmie Pass which was reached for the use of "regular traffic" the following year in 1915.Ralph poses with his motorbike inside the famous Snohomish Bicycle Tree, which I still remember from the early 1970s, but which was subsequently removed as a hazard to cyclists.
Somewhere - most likely - on the northern slope of Queen Anne Hill. A dogged review of Google street views might uncover those homes - on Warren Ave. maybe.This view of muscular soldiers on the Mexican border in August 1916, may also be a commercial recording. It is captioned. The 2nd Washington Infantry was packed off to the Mexican border to challenge Poncho Villa - or prepare to. Scenes' from Ralph's part in the First World War.
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Queen Anne High School was one of the last creations of James Stephen during his nine years as Seattle’s official school architect. Stephen was responsible for designing more than 50 Seattle school structures and many more schools throughout Washington State. One, Everett High School, was built at the same time as Queen Anne High and resembles it. (Click this and all the photographs and ephemera to make them bigger. And sometimes click them twice.)
(A version of the text that follows the “now” below first appeared in Pacific Mag – Sunday Times – for Oct. 12 1997. You will know from your own experience that 13 years are kept within the envelope named “The Passage of Strange Time” or in the drawer marked “The Strange Passage of Time.” It seems to me now like I was on this corner taking the “now” much much more recently than that. But still I have lost – temporarily – the negative. Jean’s from last week end will do better, and in color.)
In 1981, 72 years and 24,000 graduates after it opened, Queen Anne High closed. The school, however, was saved form destruction by its conversion into The Queen Anne Apartments.
Queen Anne High
While the classical brick-and-tile pile of Queen Anne High School was being raised on the summit of Queen Anne Hill in 1908-09, the major part of Denny Hill was being lowered beneath it. The school board’s decision to build a new high school here at the then still relatively remote intersection of Galer Street and Second Avenue N. rather than wait a few months for a school site in the Denny Regrade was controversial, although perhaps not for the 650 students and 33 teachers who entered the new school in September 1909.
Otto Luther, a 28-year-old history teacher at Broadway High School, was brought over as principal. At the school’s dedication ceremony, Luther made the point that “the high school is the people’s college.”
And it was the proud understanding of that progressive era in local education that the teaching done at Seattle’s high schools was very good. Luther presided here for 42 years – something that can happen when you are made the “boss” at twenty-eight. He retired in 1951. This was three years less than the 45-year service of the school’s physical-education instructor, Mable Furry.
The above view of Queen Anne High dates from the late teens, and the bricks and terra-cotta ornaments – including those clusters of scrolls and wreaths hanging from the cornice – are still like fresh. In this late autumnal scene, the landscaping is barely adolescent and does not interfere with what is a good architectural record of a city landmark.
But in its yearly years – or perhaps anytime before the TV towers were erected nearby – Queen Anne High School could best be seen from the bottom of Queen Anne Hill or from the Denny Regrade. From there, its looming classical pile made it Seattle’s acropolis. Other photographs included here – far below – show that it can also be seen from Fremont (upper Fremont) and, of course, Capitol Hill.
This early look south on 3rd Ave. N. to the school's front door is now interrupted by the new campus for John Hay School. (A short illustrated history of John Hay was given here recently. You can search for it.)Queen Anne High's west facade seen from the old standpipe two blocks away.Queen Anne High from Capitol Hill - early.Queen Anne High acting something like the acropolis here high above work-in-progress on the Denny Regrade. The building at the center is the old Denny School (1884-1929) on the north side of Battery Street between 5th and 6th Avenues. The water canons here in 1909-10 are eroding Denny Hill into ditches first for gathering to flumes on trestles and on these the moving mud was carried away to splash into the bay. The left-west wing of Denny School was cut away soon after this photograph was recorded. It was lost with the forming of a cliff along the east side of 5th Avenue, which cliff market the limit of the regrade between 1911 and 1928, when the work began again - this time with steam shovels - and the rest of the hill was humbled along with what remained of Denny School. Even here from above Fremont Queen Anne High School is forming on the horizon. This view was taken from near N. 39th Street and Evanston Avenue. It just misses including the Fremont Bridge on the far left. The fresh and naked avenues on the north slope of Queen Anne Hill are easily identified. On the far left is the steep 4th Avenue N., which one can still ascend from Dexter to the top although signs ask you not to. (One frozen and bright winter morning I tried taking my VW Bug up it, and reached half way when the car gave up and slide back to the bottom - straight and without a bruise.) From 4th to the right (west) the avenues go, Nob Hill, 3rd, Mayfair, 2nd, Warren (now a better way to reach the top), 1st and Queen Anne Ave.
Here, below, we have lifted a profile of Queen Anne High’s long-time principal Otto Luther (Here he stands) from the popular Seattle blog name VINTAGE SEATTLE. It describes itself as a “High-resolution blog visualizing the Emerald City’s Past.” It is always a favorite destination and often much fun. We might have, however, as local Troglodytes written “the Queen City’s Past” given that “Emerald City” was a replacement for “Queen City.” The green stone was thought more descriptive than royalty and it gave the modern media agents of the Central Business Association or the Chamber of Commerce or the Visitors Bureau (I no longer remember) another chance for a promotion. That was about 35 years ago only. But then to be fair “Queen City” was first applied by a Portland-based real estate agent in Pioneer times and not following the discovery here of any royalty. Rather the bigger city Oregonians wanted to sell lots of lots in the still fledgling Seattle on the chance that the buyers might expect to find a stump here marking a kings ransom or wearing a diadem. And they did.
You can visit Vintage Seattle with this link. http://www.vintageseattle.org. Or just Google "Vintage Seattle." This blog is popular and should pop up on top.
Jean and Ron and all the schleps that see, here is something to ponder: the celebrated Bellingham recorder, J. Wilbur Sandison’s version of that same stretch on Chuckanut Drive that we published together directly below this addendum. I think it is Sandison who stood on the rock that Jean climbed and bushwhacked to the top and not Jukes, another productive Bellingham photographer who recorded the version that we used in “Washington Then and Now.” (Or does the rock sprawl?) Study the limbs and power poles, count the fence posts, consider the near-by curve in the highway. What do you think?
Compare Sandison's Chuckanut with Juke's (two subjects below,) and conclude, if you will, which of the two Bellingham photographer's stood on Jean's rock.
Mistakes can be exciting. In the original Colman Dock feature on this blog for which this is the 5th Addendum, I put it that the San Mateo was the only ferry transplanted or shipped from California that kept its Golden State Name. The rest were traded, I explained, for Evergreen State Names. I did not add at the time that the first ferry that Washington State Dept of Transportation built was named The Evergreen State, and you can find it above in that photographically crude montage pulled from a DOT stapled pamphlet. Now we get a letter from Rex, who helpfully joins in on this business of ferry names. The letter follows . . .
Dear Paul,
I loved your Sunday, 05 September 2010, Now & Then in the Times. I think the Black Ball look at Colman Dock is way better than the modern version! It always seems to be a struggle to get the state to just call it Colman Dock. Now they are back to “Seattle Ferry Terminal” but at least they added “at Colman Dock.”
As far as your guess about the SAN MATEO being the only ferry that kept its name, her sister ship, the SHASTA, also ran with her original name. The NAPA VALLEY used her original name for a while. She had a fire and was rebuilt. At some point she became the MALAHAT. The CITY OF SACRAMENTO ran with her original name or sometimes was referred to simply as the SACRAMENTO. But eventually she was completely rebuilt for the Horseshoe Bay – Departure Bay (West Vancouver – Nanaimo) run and renamed KAHLOKE. The steamers apparently were not expected to serve very long and so no effort was expended on changing their names. SHASTA ran until 1958 and SAN MATEO until 1969. KAHLOKE came out in about 1951 and ran a quarter century more and the MALAHAT was retired in about 1953. So actually some of the steamers or their reincarnations lasted a long time.
Yours, Rex
And thank you Rex. You have also moved us to attach the few pages on steamers and ferries that appear in the book “Building Washington.” We will attach them below. We mean to put this entire history of Washington State public works up on this blog soon. So the eight pages that follow are a kind of Public Works Titillation. They first were printed in the Waterways Chapter, the first chapter in the 400-plus page book. This is also a kind of test. We hope you can read it! By all means please CLICK IT TWICE to ENLARGE IT. The book was published in 1999 (and – we toot – won one of that year’s Governor’s Writers Awards). At the end of this excerpt we let it run on into the chapter’s description of the Port of Seattle – but we do not continue on with that. It is just a fragment.
Dexter Horton Bank, northwest corner of Washington St. and Commercial St. (First Ave. S.) before the June 6, 1889 "Great Fire." (CLICK TO ENLARGE - Sometimes Twice)And again again, nearly the same point of view and following the "great fire" that razed about 30 city blocks on June 6, 1889.The Maynard Building in 1994, a century after it took the place of the pioneer Dexter Horton Bank Building. A page from the Feb. 25, 1906 Seattle Times "jubilee special." The Maynard building is at the bottom left corner when it was still named, like its predecessor there, the Dexter Horton bldg.Another page from the 1906 Times Jubilee special, this one showing a few Seattle banks. Dexter Horton is printed at the center of the montage.
. . . FOLLOWS A SMALL SAMPLE OF PIONEER WASHINGTON STATE BANKS
BANK OF CHENEY, then. This comparison can be found in Jean and my book "Washington Then and Now." We intend, at least, to put the entire book up on this blog within the year. (Courtesy, Cheney bank NOW. Actually a very hot summer day in 2005.FIRST NATIONAL BANK, CHENEYREDMOND BANKSOUTH BEND BANK, exteriorSouth Bend Bank, InteriorWAPATO BANK, then (This too appears in the book "Washington Then and Now.")WAPATO BANK now, with Howard Lev visiting from Seattle to study the progress of his Yakima Valley goat horn peppers for processing into his Mama Lil's condiment. The second person is not identified.OAK HARBOR BANKCONWAY BANK - An old one but no longer a bank with cash deposits or lending policy here. This view was snapped by me, I think, either in 1970 or 71 on a trip with the band The Youngbloods from Seattle to Bellingham where they were expected to play that night at WWSU - and did. The Conway Bank was by then Beck's Bank, the home of sculptor Larry Beck, seen here crouching on the bottom step with the pill-box hat, sort of. The camera that recorded this snapshot was probably Fred Bauer's. He holds a Shazzam pose on the left. Fred is an old friend and superb artist. He has been "gone" to California for nearly 40 years exploring ancient forests and raising exotic birds. His brother John is behind him. John's art is furniture - lavish furniture - and wood sculpture. The other of the Memphis Bauer boys is Joe who is front center and smiling. Joe was the band's drummer. The poser with the big black hair is Banana, guitar, piano and much else. I do not know the man behind him (interrupt: Ed Garrett writes with a comment - below - that the standing man behind Banana is a new band member named Michaeki Kane.) nor the woman leaning at the top of the steps, although I do have a faint memory of her costume and her hair. Next to her is artist Charles Larry Heald, who after moving to California - eventually near Fred in Humbolt County - is now back living in the Skagit Valley and painting. Larry is one of the three celebrated Heald brothers - all artists. All were part of Helix, the local tabloid of the late 60s. The oldest brother Maury is past. Paul Heald has a studio in Columbia City, here in Seattle. Beck's Bank was a favorite stop for many when traveling between Seattle and Bellingham. For me that was in the early 1970s. I forgot the figure at the center in the big fur cap. I don't recognize him, but would he recognize himself? Much is hidden. (And now much more is revealed with Larry Heald's comments on this slide - in the "comments section" below, I presume. )A silly repeat of Fred Bauer's Shazzam pose - from memory. I posed and Jean took it when we were headed for Bellingham in 2005 either to take shots for the book "Washington Then and Now" or to lecture - or both. (Jean also took the repeats for the Cheney and Wapato banks above.) By then Larry Beck was long gone both from his bank and from this mortal coil or veil of tears or human comedy. Larry - Lawrence - died in the spring of 1994, and his passing was noted with a great wake at Golden Gardens. Part Alaskan native his ashes were distributed in Puget Sound - and delivered there ceremonially by a very long and large dugout canoe moved by many paddles and much chanting. Larry "left his mark" on that place with a piece of permanent art at Golden Gardens, 12 feet of steel and named Atala Kivlicktwok Okitun Dukik, "The Golden Money Moon." (Look it up.) Inside Beck's Bank in Conway but on another occasion in the early 70s. Again Fred Bauer's camera most likely and this time he made the recording too. Larry Beck is up in his loft, and his Skagit Valley neighbor and friend the painter Larry Heald is seated on the couch on the left.
A few of Joe's friends joined him last evening at Margaret Bovingdon's home for a delicious repast of something so complex it required a recipe to concoct. I'm accustomed to rice with veggies. This was that too but much more. Joe's friends, left to right, Pliny, Ella, Julie and hostess Margaret show, it seems, their shared delight in Joe, his good humor and what Joe described at the time as the "pleasures of the feast." A slice of pear remains on the right.
(We Do Not Advise Clicking to Enlarge) Things have gone awry for Horace with this Kodachrome. The focus is soft, the color is shifted so that is seems as rendered from expressionist brush strokes as from emulsion. The river is running to purple. And what river? Perhaps the Styx, border to Hades. It is the river in which you will drown for eternity if you have been very bad. Sucking desperately for air but getting only oily water. Or perhaps this mutilation is somewhere on the Grande Ronde River as it snakes its way across northeast Oregon heading for the Snake River Canyon. Or another rare but ancient carving stream in arid Utah. Sykes does not say, but what a possibility: Styx by Sykes.
Related Northwest Green Lake Neighborhood images and text may be found below, inserted on May 22/2010. Or search for “Maust.”
(Click to Enlarge)
Charles Maust built his clapboard Maust Block at the corner of 73rd S. and Winona Avenue in 1906. It lasted until the late 1960s when it was replaced by a four-story apartment house distinguished by its rough exterior siding made of Marblecrete. Historical photo courtesy of Maust Corporation
MAUST MOVERS
From a life of raising chickens and saving souls, Charles Maust, a Baptist minister who ran a poultry farm on the shores of Green Lake in 1902 took to also hauling coal that year. Maust trucks are still hauling as the company climbs the driveway to its centennial.
Maust built his namesake block at the flatiron corner of 73rd and Winona in 1906. He rented the upstairs corner office to the physician Herman Greiner and the center storefront to a cobbler, and he attached a gaudy second structure at the north end on which he marketed the range of his service. Coal, wood, sand, gravel, flour, spuds, brick, lime, cement, plaster: those are the stables of 1906.
Although the company home and stables were beside the lake they did much of their hauling on the central waterfront. One of the earliest contracts was with Black Diamond coal. Loaded at the pier Maust wagons carried the coal to both commercial and residential customers all over town. Eventually, Maust rolling stock was active from Blaine to Olympia. From canteens to chicken feed Maust trucks helped built Fort Lewis and also service a route of chicken farmers around Tacoma.
The company was also handling fish, and it was as a mover of fish – canned, fresh and frozen – that Maust ultimately got its reputation. For years it was headquartered at Pier 54, sharing it with Ivar’s Acres of Clams and the Washington Fish and Oyster Company. Maust however never gave up the claim, “We Haul Just About Everything.”
Three Maust generations — Charles, Harold and Norman — ran the company until 1996 when long-time company employee — and Norm Maust’s friend — Gary Dennis took over. Included in the company lore is a recollection by Charles’ son Harold how during the Great Depression his dad laid him off in favor of a married man who had a family. As Harold noted, “My dad was a fair man – took care of everybody and was well liked.” Evidently, the Baptist preacher turned trucker kept his interest in souls.
Living close to Seattle’s Green Lake Jean will sometimes visit it and at any hour. And sometimes he will send me pictures. Here are three beauties grabbed or gained from a recent walk to the lake. (Click to Enlarge)
A blue heron, I believe, about to take fight.Duck Island ProfileA hinting rainbow over guard's high chair.
A Colman Dock "classic" showing the line of smaller "Mosquito Fleet" steamers nestling in its north slip and the larger Indianapolis at the end. Inside Colman Dock soon after its 1908 construction. The balcony on the left leads to the passenger waiting room for the larger vessels that were serviced at the end of the wharf and on its south side.Ye Old Curiosity Shop at Colman Dock with proprietor Pop Stanley posing on the right.The 1908 visit of the Atlantic Fleet. First night's record of the damage got from the 1912 smash at Colman Dock applied by the ocean-going Alameda. (Search Colman Dock for more on this.)The last of the "Mosquito Fleet," the Virginia V.Cover to the program for the 1966 dedication of the new Colman Dock.
An aerial of Colman dock and five of the Black Ball fleet - including the Kalakala - soon after the end of World War Two. The Welcome Home sign can't be missed.The Kalakala unloading workers - most likely - from the Puget Sound Shipyard in Bremerton during the war - or delivering them.
May I be the first to offer some mild corrective details on your fascinating waterfront then/now of this weekend. I happen to be working on that area already.
You caused a few hours of pleasant book searching on my shelves.
I suspect the Art Deco Colman Dock photo is 1938, based on the fashion wear esp of the hot fox in the fur and slit to the thigh sheath silk dress coming off the morning boat from Bremerton. She’s a story in herself. The white straw fedoras indicate spring wear for gents as well.
I note you rightly did hedge on the names of the boats. You could have asked me, I got all the books and besides I checked with Captains Bob and Oscar, my fathers who art in heaven but still standing watch, who were there so I got the straight poop on the deck here.
There were two others that kept their names:
The second batch of boats that Peabody bought in the Bay and brought north were those he didn’t completely rename, something about war priorities trumping Public relations, etc, Those without name changes included the San Mateo’s sister ship, the steamer Shasta which later joined the WSF fleet until 1959 retirement to the Portland waterfront; also in 1943/44 the single ended fast steamer City of Sacramento, nee the steamer Asbury Park, another high speed veteran of the Golden Gate fleet, which retained that name until going North with Peabody to BC where it became the Kahloke, later Langdale Queen. The other single ender converted boat, the Napa Valley, became the Malahat once arrived, and after a mysterious arson fire was rebuilt in Winslow in mere weeks. See my WW2 espionage novel for more details on all this jazz.
The Deco Terminal photo was published in Kline & Bayless Ferryboats a legend on Puget Sound, but no credit to source. Looks like a candid, or Times shot. Not sure when the passenger ramp was built, even the pre-deco terminal had that upper level deck and access. An earlier shot of the same over the rails viaduct is in Steamer’s Wake, but earlier 1930s (notwithstanding Faber’s caption alleging post-mosquito fleet). I’d love to get to an original.
Did I ever tell you the nutty idea that was proposed to remove the pedestrian overpass to “enhance the streetscape experience?” Seriously, at a WSF design meeting I crashed several years ago (they had a nice spread of free salmon and oysters, at Ivars, when WASHDOT had money to waste and I was on the Viaduct Consultancy Version I). Myself and a Bremerton councilwoman told them how utterly stupid that idea was. It got dropped (as did the entire Colman Dock rebuild project).
See attached (above) for Miss Thelma Murphy, the hootchy kootchy gal in the red silk dress. Nice figger! 9:35 in the morning?
No I don’t think that’s her mother walking next to her. Her madame, perhaps.
Unless she’s an admiral’s daughter. Now there’s a plot idea – pillow talk to my spy straight from Daddy’s top deck.
Regards, Capt Eddie
Not your Colman Dock open skirt and not even your Colman Dock - but nearby. The Flyer Dock near the foot of Madison Street. "Jude the Dude" Hatchecker poses with his cousins Hootchy and Kootchy while waiting to catch the Flyer to Tacoma.
Two readers of last Sunday’s “now-and-then” on Colman Dock have written to correct us (me) on this matter of California ferries losing their Golden names for Green ones when they were moved north to Puget Sound. I wrote that I thought that the San Mateo was the only one to keep its San Francisco Bay tag. Or perhaps I just claimed it and had no reservations. Whatever, I fumbled. There were others. Not many, but others. And The City of Sacramento, above, was one of them.
Here follows the more recent letter on this dropped pass. (I’m keeping to seasonable analogies, although I don’t give a knee injury and shortened life span for football.) Ron Miller is it’s author, and he mentions the first name, Bob, of the first writer in his first line. We quote.
“Paul,
I see on your blog that “Bob” already mentioned the City of Sacramento along with a couple other ferries from California. I didn’t know about the others, but I certainly remember the C-of-S from summer days in the 1940s on Alki Beach, where we kids would eagerly watch for it to pass because it made big waves. It served here between 1941 and 1952, when it moved on to BC and was rebuilt and renamed Kahloke. Also, there is the preposterous but also rather touching song “On the Black Ball Ferry Line up in Seattle” by Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters that immortalized some of the fleet, with special mention of the C-of-S. I’ve attached the relevant part of the lyrics—it’s worth the trouble (and it was some, at least for me) to track it down on line and listen to it.”
Now we interrupt to note that Ron Miller is an Emeritus Professor of Regional Science connected to the University of Pennsylvania, and that he is now back living in West Seattle on Beach Drive S.W with a view of both the Olympics and shipping, although without, of course, any chance of seeing the City of Sacramento since 1952. Here’s Bing and the Andrew Sisters – the relevant part.
Get aboard get aboard when the weather’s fine Take your pick of the ferries on the Black Ball Line There’s the Illahee and Chippewa And the Quillayute…the Kalakala… You’ll find all these on the Black Ball Line… The Klahanie, the Nisqually, there’s the Malahat (we’ll think of that!) The Klickitat (there goes my hat!) The S! S! City of Sacramento! (What are we doing down in California?)
RETURN TO THE SAN MATEO (TWICE)
San Mateo 1960.This we might have used before. The San Mateo in the slip between the Grand Trunk Dock - shortly before it was torn down - and Ivar's Pier 53 in 1962. Fire Station #5 behind the ferries was by then closed, and yet painted red in time for Century 21. The coloring was part of Ivar Haglund's "The Waterfront is a Many Splendored Thing" campaign.
Late summer 2005 Jean and I visited Berangere in Paris, but first we stopped in London for a week and walked about. I started collecting London books fifteen or twenty years earlier and by the time we arrived I was more familiar with the city than probably most tourists. It was my second time in London. It had been a half-century since my first visit with about 35 other 16- year-olds, “boys and girls.” We were also heading for Paris and a convention to which we were all delegates, although not very good ones. Most of us spent the 10 days of the conference walking about Paris, and missing the convention’s schedule. (CLICK to ENLARGE)
This look at the Abbey’s west facade – part of it – was managed by setting the camera on a mail box and holding still. It is a merging of two parts and the sum has been flattened to turn it into a proper architectural photograph.
I enter this in part to encourage Jean to share some of the photographs he took while on his visit to London, Paris and Berangere this past July.
Concerning your request for 60s - 70s views of Queen Anne and Magnolia, Lou Gopal, I fear I have overshot and landed in the late 30s or early 40s. But sill Lower Queen Anne it is and isn't the Van de Kamp's windmill quaint. This industrial-sized baker did the most to give the intimate small bakery feel to its mass-produced goodies with windmills around town and women dressed the part with aprons and such. I'll keep an eye out Lou. This slide is most likely by Bradley and yet it may also be a Gowey or even a Sykes. It is not attributed, but came to me bundled with the Sykes collection a quarter-century ago. (Click to Enlarge)
Included here are three clippings from Ron Edge's collection - all from August, 1878 issues of the Post-Intelligencer. They are all short stories of criminal behavior, more or less, and so are sufficiently sensational to be entertaining for the average reader, but then also for the blog's sensitive readers, because everyone likes sensation and a good crime story. The first story begins ominously, "Fast Riding. - Yesterday a party of men from across the mountains came into town . . ." Although such a lead holds real promise of mayhem it sputters to reconciliation. But stories two and three, "Footpads" and "Bold Robbery," go different ways.
A "footpad" is, of course, a highwayman - someone who preys on travelers and even pedestrians. Mill Street in this story was later renamed Yesler Way. "Near the tannery" is near 3rd and Yesler. (By the way, Front Street in the preceding story was later named First Avenue - north of Yesler way). In 1878 Seattle did not yet have 1000 citizens. It did, however, often have hundreds of single men visiting town in retreat from jobs on the Sound and in the forests and looking for social excitements. Some of these visitors were also scoundrels and others blackguards and at least two of those were footpads. The next mean story mentions the Occidental Hotel, and above is a look at it (the brilliant white structure at the center) north on Occidental Avenue from near Main Street, about the time of the story below, that is, the late 1870s. Of course this is a hand-colored rendering of a pioneer photograph. The colorist was probably Robert Bradley, a professional photographer some of whose slides I inherited along with the Horace Sykes kodachromes from the Lawton Gowey family.
Please Click the Clip that Follows TWICE to REALLY ENLARGE it.
Click the above TWICE to Make is Much Larger!
An 1878 advertisement for the Occidental Hotel pulled from Ron Edge's collection of regional ephemera. This too is from the Post-Intelligencer in 1878.
The reader named "BOB" has identified both the mountain and the falls with a comment. It is - and golly how insensitive of me - Index with Bridal Veil falls splashing down from Serene Lake - I presume. Horace did not stray far from the Stevens Pass Highway to record it, although my Googlecopter repeat of it is off a little ways - I think - to the left or east. But I have not learned yet to control the joystick well enough to always hit the spot. We don't see any falls in Google except an artifact the behaves like a grand fountain flowing magically from the summit of Index. Unlike the federal survey lines (or what?) the waterfall semblance holds well to the "waterways" of the mountain's east face (or northeast face). This is the side one sees from the town of Index, which is just off the highway to the other side of a ridge that is also behind Horace. Thank you Bob.
We found this exhibition just now. It is fitting for the story we ran last June 12th on the Totems of Belvedere Viewpoint. It is also a heart-warming example how one goof may have got fortunate with a good-humored partner.
May Sykes have driven that Chevrolet Fleetline Deluxe to the top of Mt. Constituion on Orcas Island? Yes, he might have. But is it General Motors' answer to Ford's revolutionary 1949 swept-fender model? I'm not sure? (As always - Click to Enlarge)Another prospect from the road up Mt. Constitution, but not by Sykes. A real photo postcard artist named Jacobson recorded this and the two views that follow.Near the beginning of the road up the mountain, the grand entrance into Moran State Park. This also by Jacobson.The sandstone Observation Tower on top of 2,409-foot Mount Constitution was constructed in 1935 by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) working from plans of architect Elsworth Storey. Jacobson has signed this one too.
D-DAY: THE LANDINGS ON THE BEACHES OF NORMANDY, JUNE 6, 1944. This however is flying low over Paris sometime later. The street is named at the bottom. In the distance is the Arch of Triumph and beyond it the Louvre. On the upper right horizon is the cupola for the Pantheon, which is but three blocks from the home of our very own Berangere Lomont on the Rue Genevieve, the Patron Saint of Paris, whose (or one of whose) birthdays we also celebrate on THIS DAY IN HISTORY - JUNE 6. The picture here is uncanny, or at least strange. (Click TWICE to Enlarge) Except for a few military vehicles and scattered pedestrians there is little moving below. The scene is one of several low altitude fly-byes and all of them have the same silence or poverty of commotion. Paris was liberated over a few days in late August. As soon at the Germans left (those that did not simply stay for the surrender on August 25th) the streets of Paris were very busy with parades, general celebration and also some shaming of Parisians who had cooperated with the Germans. Fifty Five years before D-Day, 35-or-so Seattle City blocks were razed by its Great Fire of June 6, 1889. This view looks north on First Avenue in the block between Yesler Way and Cherry Street. The ruins on the left are on the west side of First (or Front Street as it was then still named).
HERE FOLLOWS the 2-page limited edition of the Next Day’s Post-Intelligencer for June 7, 1889. So that you might more easily read them these are big files and will take a bit longer to download. Once they appear please – as with all else – CLICK TWICE TO ENLARGE and read the next days reports. Thanks one again to RON EDGE for providing these.
NOW WE INSERT a BLOGADDENDUM – another EDGE CLIPPING. In a caption to the Post-Intelligencer’s own description of its efforts to get out their two-page paper, Ron Edge points out its heroic qualities.
I was thinking that the heroic effort by the PI staff to print this little one page hand trimmed paper could itself be the significant event for the 7th of June. What an effort was made to get this little edition on the street the very next morning produced on borrowed foot presses and no sleep.Flip side to the Front Street Great Fire shot printed just above. Soon after the fire, photographers were selling scenes like this one on the streets and from their studios - those studios that survived. Here the fire's notable survivors are listed.Four years after D-Day Genevieve McCoy (named for the patron saint of Paris) was born on June 6, 1948. Genevieve "Genny" answered my request for a caption to this setting. "I was born on D-Day but in 1948. You are 71, 9.5 years older than I. This is me preparing for my Junior Prom at Holy Names in 1965. It was my first self-selected formal dress. I was a month or so shy of 18. Wasn't I cute 45 years ago? (We agree.) My mother must have taken the picture, just before I left for the prom." If we imagine that the 85 faces shown here include no second and third renderings of the same person then the odds would be a little more than one in four that one of them would have been born on the sixth of June. These odds are much better than those we might calculate for how likely it is that any of these 85 (so to speak) are named Genevieve, although one or more of them may be named for someone or something else's patron saint. BELIEVE IT OR NOT. It was on June 6 that Gene Woodwick gave me a copy of her latest book, "Ocean Shores." Inside the front cover is this note. "June 6, birth date of Ed Woodwick, father of Larry Woodwick, husband of Gene Woodwick, and father for their five children."
Under Berangere’s instruction I have been taking my daily French lessons on the chance that I might some day go ex-patriot. A late life in the French provinces is appealing, but also life in Paris for an old man might be exciting. So I study my French. Soon after we began these lessons both Jean – who is far ahead of me in this business of learning French – and Berangere encouraged me to post these lessons every day. I am not sure why, but I liked their recognition. They have either given up on that or thought the worse for it and I’ve not heard a thing from either of them about publishing these daily lessons on this blog for some time. Among the handicaps of growing old are losing one’s powers and loneliness. In partial relief from both I’ll now introduce today’s French Lesson in hopes that either Jean or Berangere will bring the matter up again, or that any of you will find it helpful and make some comment that is kind and encouraging. Today’s French Lesson includes some prudent advise for anyone considering the ball and chain. And it is illustrated to make the point better.
FRENCH LESSON for APRIL 13, 2010 (The French lesson is followed by its English translation. The point is, in part, that I get the translation correct. How have I done?)
Le caméraman-councelor: une tradition française. “Le mariage n’est pas quelque chose à prendre à la légère. Pour le moment, de prendre une pause dans la cérémonie. Pensez-y.”
The cameraperson-counselor: a French tradition. “Marriage is not something to enter into lightly. For the moment take a pause in the ceremony. Think about it.”
Sally and Ron and Jean did you know that your crows are members of the same family with the Steller Blue Jay? As are the ravens, rooks, jackdaws, jays magpies and nutcrackers. This afternoon, and very near to my own front door, I heard this Steller jumping from branch to branch, breaking dried twigs it seemed, and sometimes rattling, which dear Wikipedia indicates is the “sex-specific” vocalization for the female Steller. See how close – ten feet perhaps – she allowed me to approach her.
“I have been feeding a crippled crow for about a month now. He has a broken ankle and has learned to walk with his foot bent under. We have worked out a routine to distract the rest of the crows, giving him time to swoop down and grab the food I throw to the garage roof. They are really bright birds.”
Ron Edge joins the site to give us two for the crow – a crow on his garage roof, and then a sensible reflection on crows, which he has pulled from the Monday July 15, 1878 issue of the Daily Intelligencer, a precursor of the recently demised Post-Intelligencer. It is titled, “Feeding Instead of Killing Crows.”
Ron notes that if you take some time to browse YouTube you will find pet crows, playful crows, and problem-solving crows, for instance, crows that build tools to fetch food from crannies. For the toolmaker you can use Ron’s links.
Paul. The Orpheum Automobile Hotel was the cause for our reacquaintance a few years ago. Do you remember? You sent me off to Greg Lange at the Bellevue archives where I discovered this beautiful (and now digitally cleaned up) 1937 King County WPA survey photo. I spent considerable time walking the site and offer here the gorgeous original and my 2007 shot, taken with a Nikon Coolpix 995. The mosaic brickwork on the facade is just visible, peeking out from under the metal screens, if you're looking for it. If I recall correctly, the stone facing around the driveway openings is gone, a victim of the same remodel. I can almost imagine men in tails and women in furs, pulling up to a waiting valet attendant in bow tie and white gloves, before crossing the street for a concert at the Orpheum. Maybe one day I'll return with my 4x5 on a sunny winter Sunday for a serious attempt. The WPA photographer who took the survey photo was a real artist.David Jeffers repeat of the WPA tax photo he found at the Washington State Archive on the Bellevue Community College Campus.
Frank Shaw recorded this scene from the Spring Festival of Fun, on March 14, 1964, in the rain at Westlake Mall. Now 1964 is not so long ago. Hopefully someone will help us identify the keepers of these daffodils and nurturers of this fun.
The first Downtown Seattle Spring Festival of Fun was promoted mid-march in 1964. It was another try at adding some zing to a city who felt deprived of it since its Century 21 left it a Seattle Center in the fall of 1962 but not yet much to use it for. As the southern terminus of the Worlds Fair’s Marvelous Monorail, the Westlake Mall was also developing into another and smaller Seattle center. The Ides of March – the next day, March the 15th – was designated the festival’s Waterfront Day. Joe James manager of Ye Old Curiosity Shop was the chairman. Ted Griffin, the manager of the marine Aquarium at Pier 56, which had done well during Century 21, two years later was struggling to draw visitors. Days before the March fun Griffin announced his plans to stage an octopus wrestling match at his aquarium. Every Old Settler understood that Griffin’s promotion was inspired by the “Great Rassel of 1947” when Ivar Haglund brought out from the east the pugilist Two Ton Tony to take on Oscar, the star octopus at Ivar’s Pier 54 Aquarium. Griffin’s bout did not make such a splash, but his great celebrity was less than a year away when he captured and put on show at his far end of the pier the killer whale Namu. For Ivar’s part in the ’64 Festival he arranged the musical accompaniment for the Ide’s Waterfront Day with Pep Perry’s Fire House Five Plus Two playing for the open house at the new fire station, which still stands at the foot of Madison Street, and next door to Ivar’s Acres of Clams.