Seattle Now & Then: ‘Where the City Meets the Sound,’ 1934

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: In this 1934 photo looking south from the Pike Street trestle, the rotting heart of Railroad Avenue has been uncovered in preparation for building a new seawall from Madison to Bay streets. (Paul Dorpat collection)
NOW1: Standing atop the new Seattle Aquarium annex are HistoryLink staffers (from left) Nick Rousso and Elisa Law, with Jennifer Ott, executive director and author, hoisting a copy of her just-published book. The view looks south along Alaskan Way, whose honorary name is now Dzidzilalich, Lushootseed for “little crossing-over place.” (Jean Sherrard)

Published in The Seattle Times on-line on Sept. 11, 2025
and in PacificNW Magazine of the printed Times on Sept. 14, 2025

Seattle’s waterfront past can illuminate its future, new book says
By Jean Sherrard

“No light, but rather darkness visible
Serv’d only to discover sights of woe…”

John Milton, “Paradise Lost“

Had English poet John Milton toured the shadowy underbelly of Seattle’s waterfront — as seen in our 1934 “Then” photo — he might have found his own words apt. Rotting pilings, crumbling fill and the stench of decaying waste lay mostly hidden from public view.

“Where the City Meets the Sound: The Story of Seattle’s Waterfront” boasts 208 pages and more than 290 images. For more info, visit HistoryLink.org.

In “Where the City Meets the Sound: The Story of Seattle’s Waterfront” (HistoryLink, 2025), author Jennifer Ott, HistoryLink’s executive director, traces this shifting edge between land and water.

HistoryLink’s 30th book charts the transformation from a Lushootseed crossing-over place, where a tidal lagoon met the Duwamish River’s mouth, to the parks, overlooks, boat tours and civic gathering spaces we know today. In the

At the foot of Washington Street in 1892, a mix of Native canoes and pleasure craft mingle on an early version of the waterfront. Nearby Ballast Island, an artificial island built from the dumping of ship ballast, was used as an encampment by Indigenous workers. (Paul Dorpat collection)

1850s, the lagoon’s disappearance, Ott notes, “made it harder for Native people to claim space. Effectively, they were made invisible — a tension that still goes on today.”

While celebrating the waterfront’s feats of engineering, Ott also recovers overlooked stories of marginalized people and events. “Seattle’s urban history,” she says, “is about how the city was built and the choices that were made involving massive transformations of the landscape.”

Dockworkers load ships in 1935. Their work continued as the seawall was installed beneath the waterfront. (Courtesy MOHAI)

She cites the many communities — from Native peoples, immigrants, dockworkers, fishers and more —without whom the waterfront would not exist and thrive.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, patchwork seawalls, pilings and landfills replaced tide flats with

Photographed by Anders Wilse, an 1899 view shows the waterfront from University Street. West Seattle presides across Elliott Bay. (Courtesy MOHAI)

solid industrial ground. South of Pioneer Square, more than 3,000 acres of tidal wetlands were filled, dramatically reshaping the Duwamish delta. Along the central waterfront, the plank-paved Railroad Avenue, built on pilings over Elliott Bay, became Seattle’s maritime front door, but also, in Mayor John Dore’s 1934 words, “a death trap” and “a menace to the life of all that use it.”

The waterfront’s Depression-era seawall, built from 1934 to 1936, secured the shoreline from Washington Street to Bay Street. Above it, Railroad Avenue was rebuilt as Alaskan Way. Two decades later, the 1953

The Alaskan Way Viaduct, 1953

Alaskan Way Viaduct loomed over the stretch — a postwar icon that Ott calls a “psychological and visual barrier” separating the city from its bay. “The waterfront became fly-over country,” she quips.

Today, with the viaduct gone and the seawall rebuilt

Jennifer Ott at Pier 69 celebrating a Sept. 9th book launch

for seismic safety, the waterfront once again is being reimagined. Ott shows that Elliott Bay’s edge is more than a physical boundary. It’s a mirror reflecting Seattle’s shifting priorities.

Documenting its past, she suggests, can illuminate a path forward, bringing long-buried layers into the light. What’s more, “in understanding these layers,” she says, “we are given a deeper connection to this special place.”

WEB EXTRAS

For a narrated 360 degree video on location at the waterfront, click right here.

Jennifer Ott tells stories of the waterfront on the waterfront (Jean Sherrard)

 

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