Seattle Now & Then: The American Hotel on Westlake

(click to enlarge photos)

THEN: Back to back, the American Hotel on the left, and the first five floors of the Northern Bank and Trust building, fill the then new pie-shaped half-block east of Westlake between Pike and Pine Streets. A likely date is ca. 1908. (Courtesy: The Museum of History & Industry; aka MOHAI)
NOW: For his repeat Jean, with his back to Pine Street, extended his big pole – more than ten feet long – to look south across Westlake Mall and over its small grove of eccentric trees, which architectural historian Diana James explains. “Those purple stockings seem to be a fad right now. They add some color to an otherwise gray landscape.”

Westlake Avenue was first surveyed in January 1905 – that part of it then first cut through the existing city grid between Pike Street and Denny Way.  By November of 1906 the new thruway was paved and being developed to all sides.  And the new sides were many.  Thru the roughly seven blocks of cutting, nearly 30 odd-shaped building lots and flatiron blocks were exposed, adding imaginative opportunities for cityscape and developers.  With its willful path to Lake Union and its eccentric new sides, Westlake was popularly, although not officially, called a boulevard.

A Times clip from Nov. 5, 1907, the day before the American Hotel Cafe - and perhaps the hotel too - opened to three entrances and the musical accompaniment of The American Orchestra.
Northern Bank notes its move to 4th and Pike - A Seattle Times clip from Aug. 25, 1907.

Resembling most obviously a buoyant ship (one not sinking), here the American Hotel points its bow north between Westlake Avenue, (on your – the reader’s – right), and the alley between Fourth and Fifth Avenues.  The photograph was recorded from the Hotel Plaza, built one floor higher than the American, and set snugly between Westlake, 4th Avenue and Pine Street above its own wedge-shaped footprint.  From that foundation the Plaza looked south to the new five-star corner at Pike Street.

Hotel Plaza, the American's neighbor across what in this early postcard is identified as Westlake Boulevard. The view looks north from 4th and Pike.
Les than two years after it first opened the American Hotel was offered up for sale. This "business chance" pulled from The Times for Feb. 18, 1909.

With its 70 “reasonably priced” rooms – $3.50 and up for a week – the American expected to service many transient salesmen.  But this American had troubles, changing hands twice before it was renamed Hotel Central in 1914 – to make a clear point of its touted location in the “center of everything.”  Frank Crampton, the new proprietor in 1910, was especially thorough with his renovations.  The Times reported “twenty-three rooms were vacated by undesirable tenants within three days after he assumed charge.”  Crampton hoped to fill his hotel with “permanent roomers for the winter.”

Seattle Times adver. fm Sept 11, 1910 brings Frank Crampton to the rescue.
A classified from Nov. 11, 1912 announces a Mrs. N.L. Slocum's own announcement that she has purchased "an active interest in the American Hotel," and will apparently also be hanging out there waiting "to welcome all her numerous friends." Unfortunately, perhaps, most of them will probably be locals and so will not need to check in. Nowadays, of course, they might leave their efforts on Facebook.
By the summer of 1919 Northern Bank is kaput but . . . (see below)

At its “stern” or far southern end, the American Hotel was attached to Northern Bank and Trust Company’s also new corner at 4th and Pike.  The bank soon added another five stories to reach the height it still holds in Jean’s “repeat.”  Late in 1916, the bank confidently advertised, “Eventually many of you will open banking relations with the Northern Bank and Trust Company.  Why not now?” The prediction failed and so did the bank in 1919.  Another bank, the Seaboard, took hold and named the ornate landmark “at the center of everything” for itself.

. . . but Seaboard Bank announces that it will take its place - by Nov. 11, 1919.

WEB EXTRAS

Anything to add, Paul?   Yes Jean and first a fulfillment of the second “now” you recorded on Westlake that well-lighted day.  Remember?  you looked south on the sidewalk mid-block toward Pike.   Jean  have discovered that I wrote a Times feature a few years back that looks in the same direction but from the north side of Pine Street.  I’ll include the clipping from that to cover your added now-then as well.

First your repeat - with hipsters.
The construction scaffolding showing above the roof to Ford's corner photo lab is part of the late construction on the Federal Post Office at the southeast corner of Third Ave. and Union Street.

Frank Shaw's recording of the same block, taken from the Monorail terminal on Dec. 13, 1966.
Three yules later Frank Shaw returns on Dec. 20, 1969.

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CHANGES ON FOURTH AVENUE NORTH OF PIKE

So far I have never come upon a photograph of the intersection of 4th and Pike taken at the intersection before Westlake Was cut through there to Denny Way in 1906.   The Westlake cut is an accomplished feature in the photo below although the street is still a work in progress, and the Plaza Hotel is not completed.   Note here the steep rise of Fourth Avenue, on the left, as it climbs the southeast corner of Denny Hill to a horizon this side of Virginia Street.

Fourth Ave. on the left and Westlake on the right, in late 1906 after Westlake was cut through the city grid as far as Denny Way. The Plaza Hotel - later the triangular block for a one-story Bartells - is center-left.
About nineteen years earlier, looking south on 4th Avenue from between Steward and Virginia Streets into a north end neighborhood that is still years from being energized by the Westlake surgery. Pike Street runs left-right behind the two darker roofs and across the middle of the photograph. The Territorial University and its campus account for the greenbelt. Both the Providence Hospital's spire facing Fifth Ave at Spring Street and the bell tower or cupola of Central School on the far side of Madison between Sixth and Seventh Avenues transcend the horizon. (Compliments of Michael Maslan.)
Another inspection of the neighborhood from Denny Hill, a year to two earlier, ca. 1885. The campus greenbelt shows and Pike Street makes it confident way across the way. The first Lutheran Church in Seattle, the Swedes, are far right at the northeast corner of 3rd and Pike. Providence Hospital and Central School also appear, although the central spire for the hospital has as yet not been raised. (Courtesy, University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections)
The roof of the Plaza Hotel is bottom right in this look into the Denny Regrade from the roof of the bank building - the future Seaboard Building. The New Washington Hotel at the northeast corner of Stewart and Second Ave. is upper left. Fourth Avenue no longer climbs the hill. Magnolia is far off.
The neighborhood - and the corner of 4th and Pike, lower-left - ca. 1905 and so shortly before Westlake was cut thru much of what shows in his detail from a Sanborn real estate map.
The city takes a substantial loss in the sale of the homes on 4th between Pike and Pine that they purchased by condemnation for the laying out of Westlake. The Times clip dates from Jan 4, 1905.
A more closely cropped detail of the same corner taken from the 1950 real estate map. (Thanks to Ron Edge for pulling the two maps - and more.)

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MORE of FIVE-STAR WESTLAKE at PIKE

We might have simply linked much of what follows to other past features on this blog for we have surely visited this 5-Star corner often over the past few years.  And we shall again.  Now we will anchor some of these “classics” directly to this feature.  Every time we use this old photo or ephemera or that one, we treat them within their new contexts as also somewhat renewed.

From Ford's second floor studio (see above) with the big window at the southwest corner of Pike and 4th - although signed bottom-left by the Webster and Stevens studio, not Ford, who may have moved on by the time this ca. 1908 recording was made. Note how Fourth Avenue, on the left, continues its steep climb up Denny Hill - and not now for long. (Courtesy MOHAI)
Jean recorded this in the ca.2005 from the Joshua Green Building for inclusion in our book Washington Then and Now (2007).

WESTLAKE HISTORY

(First appeared in Pacific, Nov. 13, 1983)

Both this “now” and “then” look north up Westlake Ave. from the southwest corner of Fourth Ave. and Pike Street. Great things have been expected of this five-star hub since its creation in 1906 when the odd but bold intrusion of Westlake Ave. was at last cut through from Denny Way. (As of this writing [1983] the city is still waiting.)

Our historical setting (above) dates from 1909. All of the larger structures are new and seem to elegantly promise that this unique hub will develop into Seattle’s 20th-century civic center. On the right is the Seaboard Building, which now, with another five stories added, still fills that comer. Just beyond it is the American Hotel, and across Westlake, the Hotel Plaza. The flatiron Plaza stood there until 1931 when it was razed to the first floor level and rebuilt more modestly for Bartell Drugs, which remained a tenant for over 50 years. During the prohibition years a cabaret in the Plaza’s basement was one of the town’s more popular speakeasys.

The American Hotel is on the right, while on the far left 4th Avenue climbs Denny Hill for about one year more. (Courtesy MOHAI)

In our 1909 scene (two up) only a few horses, hacks, and three or four automobiles are at play. The streetcars and people actually own the street, and the former are outfitted with cowcatchers to mercifully ensnare the latter. In 1909 if you stayed off the tracks (and stepped about what the horses left) you were usually free to safely jaywalk or even stand about and converse in the street – like the two men on the right of our scene. (Again, the “scene” two-up.)

If Westlake were continued on south through the central business district (behind the photographer), it would at last meet First Ave. at Marion St. And that was the route for a Lake Union-bound boulevard proposed in 1876 by Seattle doctor and Mayor Gideon Weed. Although the citizens disagreed with Weed’s proposal, they were familiar with this part of the route north of Pike Street for in 1872 a narrow-gauge railroad was cut through the forest here to carry coal from scows on Lake Union to bunkers at the foot of Pike St. The coal cars ran up this draw until 1878 when the route was abandoned for a new coal road to Newcastle that went around the south end of Lake Washington. Then this old railway line, and future Westlake Ave., grew into a shrub-sided path popularly traveled for family picnics at Lake Union. It was called “Down the Grade.”

Pike Street - and part of the coal railroad - cuts across this 1878 look from the southern slope of Denny Hill to the Territorial University on Denny Knoll, and a still forested First Hill horizon.

In 1882 a narrow boardwalk to the lake was built along the old coal railroad line and David Denny’s Western Mill first started Lake Union “working” at its southern end.  By the late 1880s the sides of the little valley between Denny and Capitol hills were cleared, and the streets which were laid out across this gentle ravine kept to the city grid.  The neighborhood of clapboard apartments and working family homes which developed here was another of Seattle’s many examples of town plats that gave little mind to topography except to surmount it. In 1890 Luther Griffith, Seattle’s young wizard of electric trolleys, purchased 53 lots along the old coal road’s grade, and proposed to cut a multi-use boulevard through the city’s grid directly to Lake Union. The city council disagreed.

However, by the early 1900s the city’s businesses had begun to move north out of Pioneer Square in such numbers that a new city center was desired, and the city engineers went back to the old Westlake proposals. The old route was surveyed in January 1905, and by November of the next year the 90-ft-wide street was paved and completed. This was 30 years since Mayor Weed’s original 1876 proposal.

The March 6, 1901 Seattle Times report on plans for cutting Westlake directly through form Pike Street to Denny Way.
Seattle's first monorail proposed was envisioned running snug to the sidewalks - and hotels - on Westlake.

If this Westlake precedent holds true, then the Westlake Mall, which was first proposed in 1958 and has since been a frustration for five mayors – Clinton, Braman, Miller, Uhlman, and Royer – should be completed in 1988 to the glory of the reelected fifth.

(As it developed Royer was reelected but the more splendid visions for this five-star corner and its “run” to the north were compromised to contingencies of the usual sort, like traffic on Pine Street and commercial urges that were difficult to distinguished from greed.  The “invisible hand” acted with neither prudence nor providence.)

Our set ca. 1950.

Frank Shaw's April 29, 1962 record of the Monorail terminus from the mall.
Another Shaw slide, this one marked for June 5, 1965.

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THIS PUZZLING MALL

I confess (about nine years ago) to having featured this intersection four times – that I remember – in the last 23 years.  So here’s the fifth, and I wonder what took me so long.  There are so many delightful photographs taken from this five-star corner looking north on Westlake from Forth and Pike.  But this scene with the officer probably counts as a “classic” for it has been published a number of times by other publications and he has not tired of it yet.

It is only recently that I looked closely at the policeman, and I think I have figured out what he is doing.  He is scratching his head.  Since this is a sign of deep thought – or at least puzzlement – I suggest that the officer here is wondering about the great changes have occurred in the only three or four years before he was sent this afternoon to help with the traffic.  (I’m figuring that this is 191o or very near it.)  Heading north for Fremont, trolley car number 578 – to the left of the officer – is only two or three years old and so is the Plaza Hotel to the left of it.  If the officer returns to this beat in a few years more he’ll probably know that there is a speak-easy running it the hotel basement.

Westlake Avenue was cut through the neighborhood in 1906 along what its planners described as “a low-lying valley, fairly level, with just enough pitch to give it satisfactory drainage.”  The plan was to connect it with “a magnificent driveway around the lake.”  But then some readers will remember that there have been many magnificent plans for this part of Westlake as well.  Beginning in 1960 with the opening of the Westlake Summer Mall — that quickly had its name changed to Seafair Mall — the blocks between Pike and Stewart streets were talked and dreamed over for a quarter century as the best available site for developing a civic center with a wide broad public place for a central business district that somehow wound up without one.

In 1960 one concerned person described the Seafair Mall as “This sorry little bit of pavement with a few planter boxes.” Forty-five years later there are at least more planter boxes.

[It is, again, nightybears time and I must climb the stairs.  There remain all in a line a few more permutations on this Westlake theme and perhaps I will slip them in later this afternoon.  If not they will keep for another Westlake visit.]

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The Westlake 5-Star on March 12, 1919. (Courtesy University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections)
Surely not the most precise of "repeats" - perhaps avoiding the obstruction of the traffic sign with arrows. Still I should have stepped on to 4th Avenue when the traffic was clear. Regardless the late afternoon light pours down Pike on a September day in 1994. Sadly it brightens the modernized first floor corner of the Seaborne Building for Rifkin's Jewelers. Here it can easily be compared to what it covered.

WESTLAKE & FOURTH – March 12, 1919

(First appeared in Pacific, Jan. 17, 1982)

The day is Wednesday, March 12, 1919. The silent film “The Forbidden Room” is in the last day of a four-day run at the Colonial Theater on Fourth Avenue between Pike and Pine Streets. The film stars Gladys Brockwell who plays a “girl stenographer saving a big city from looters and plotters.” Brockwell’s performance, however, probably will be missed and the theater empty, for tonight the city itself will be the show as it celebrates the homecoming of “Seattle’s own regiment, the 63rd Coast Artillery.”

The photograph was taken in mid-afternoon and the parade of local heroes through downtown has just ended. Uniformed men and celebrating citizens are mingling in the streets and rehearsing, perhaps, for the night’s street dance in Times Square. At 8 p.m. fireworks will be set off from the roof of the Times Building and the newspaper’s next-day reporting of the celebration will continue these pyrotechnics: “Nothing in the successions of explosions that made the day the 63rd came home a day to be remembered with such historical red letter days as Armistice Day (and night), the Great Fire, the first Klondike gold ship, and the opening of the Exposition was more characteristic of the atmosphere of benevolent and jubilant dynamite than the merry street carnival and pavement dance last night that made Times Square a mass of swaying, noise-making, exuberant humanity . . . ”

Fireworks at the Times Building represented literally the figurative fireworks that found expression in every other event of the dizzy program which piled sensation on sensation until the city’s homecoming soldier sons admitted they scarcely knew whether they were coming or going . . .  ”From the roof of the Times Building rockets soared screamingly upward and flared out in fantastic shapes and lights and showers of fire . . .  Meanwhile bands – four of them – were making the night melodious with war tunes and the jazziest of jazz music – and throngs were dancing, looking skyward as they danced, and not bothering to apologize for bumps.” It is doubtful that even Gladys Brockwell’s melodramatic heroics could soar so high.

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This subject was pulled from a Municipal Archives Collection showing a variety of corner news stands in the Central Business District during the summer of 1938.
1995 - probably Spring (the season not the street).

PIKE & FOURTH – JULY 25, 1938

(First appeared in Pacific, 1-8-1989)

Although the date for this Fourth and Pike scene is recorded on neither the original negative nor on its protective envelope, uncovering it was not difficult. The newsstand at the center of this view includes face-out copies of both The Seattle Times and The Post-Intelligencer. Although we can’t read the date, we can, with the aid of magnification, make out a few of the headlines in the original negative. With those generous clues and a little fast-forward searching through the Seattle Public Library’s microfilms, the date for this scene is soon discovered. It is Monday, July 25, 1938.

The P.I., just above the dealer’s head, announces “A New Forest Fire Rages at Sol Duc.” A week-and-a-half of record heat had not only encouraged fires but also filled the beaches. And this Monday, Seattle was even hotter with the anticipation of a Tuesday night fight. Jack Dempsy’s photograph is on the front page of the P.I. The “Mighty Manassa Mauler” was in town to referee one of the great sporting events in the history of the city: the Freddie Steele vs. Al Hostak fight for the middle-weight title.

About 30 hours after this photograph was taken, hometown-tough Hostak, in front of 35,000 sweating fans at Civic Field (now site of the Seattle Center stadium), made quick work of the champion Steele. The P.I.’s purple-penned sports reporter, Royal Brougham, reported “Four times the twenty-two-year-old Seattle boy’s steel-tempered knuckles sent the champion reeling into the rosin.” Hostak brought the belt to Seattle by a knockout in the first minute of the first round.

The day ‘s super-heated condition was also encouraged at the Colonial Theatre (one-half block up Fourth) where the Times reported that “an eternal triangle’ in the heart of the African jungle brings added thrills in “Tarzan’s Revenge.” The apeman’s affection for a Miss Holms, on safari with her father, fires the resentment of her jealous fiancee, George Meeker. However, we will not reveal the ending to this hot affair, although by Wednesday the 27, Seattle had cooled off.

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Dec. 22, 1949 - Looking north on 4th Avenue across Pike Street, by Robert D. Bradley.
Jean's repeat
Mine of Jean preparing for his "repeat."

NEON IN 1949 by BRADLEY – Neither GOWEY nor SYKES

This week’s view north on Fourth Avenue from Pike Street shines with neon and those by now nostalgic flame-shape municipal light standards that once graced nearly all the streets in the business district and a few beyond it.

Written on the slide with a steady hand is its most important information – except the photographer’s name.  “4th and Pike, Night, Kodak 35mm, Ansco Film, 8 f-stop, Dec 22, 1949.”  The shutter was left open for 10 seconds, plenty of time for the passing cars to write illuminated lines along both 4th and Westlake with their headlights.  With help from the Seattle Public Library’s Seattle Room I found the photographer: Robert D. Bradley.

I was given this slide and several thousand more in 1984 – a quarter century ago! – by my friend Jean Gowey, who was then recently widowed by her husband Lawton.  With thanks Lawton’s name has often appeared here as responsible for providing many of the historical photographs I have used through the now 27 years of this feature.  Beyond his professional life of keeping books for the Seattle Water Department, Lawton was very good at playing the organ for his Queen Anne neighborhood church and both studying and sharing his love for local history.  Hoping that I would make good public use of Lawton’s own color photography tracking the changes in the business district, Jean included them in the gift.

Along with Gowey’s slides came Bradley’s, and like this night shot, most of them are examples of cityscape beginning in the late 1940s and ending with his death in 1973. The largest part of Jean’s gift, Horace Sykes’s thousands of Kodachrome landscapes of the west from the 1940s and early 1950s, have little to do with Seattle but much to do with the human heart.  Until his death in 1956 at the age of 70, Sykes was a relentless explorer and a master of picturesque landscapes.   Almost certainly, Sykes, Gowey and Bradley were also friends.

I have often used both Gowey and Bradley’s recordings to better understand the modern changes of Seattle.  And now at last at 70 I am also exploring the west with the enchanted Horace.    I include now directly below an example of a Horace Sykes Kodachrome landscape.  Most of his slide are not identified, but that will make more the adventure of studying them – a Sykes Hide and Seek.  (For instance I for now speculate that the below “burning bush” photo is of a scene on the Yakima River.)  We intend to eventually give Horace and his art is own picturesque “button” here at dorpatsherrardlomont.   (AND WE DID carry on with Sykes, although not yet with the button.   We are not yet finished with Sykes.  For about a year-and-a-half we ran “Our Daily Sykes” with Horace’s kodachromes of the American West.  We reached 498 scenes, I believe.  I left one or two off the end so that I might finish it later.  It is, it seems, a neurotic inclination of mine.  However incomplete one can keyword the 498 Daily Sykes that were shared with blog readers in a testimony to the Horace’s sensitive eye.)

Horace Sykes "Burning Bush" beside what is most likely the Yakima River ca. 1947. Horace rarely identified his subjects - the better for hide-and-seek.
To illustrate the point above about Jean’s street lights reiterating the radiant Christmas star that once the Bon and now Macy’s hangs from its corner at 4th and Pine here’s two snapshots of it by an old friend, Lawton Gowey. (As with the survival of Bon-Macy’s Christmas Star above, I was wrong in this as well, first identifying the two Kodachromes as by Robert Bradley, a friend of Lawton’s too. ) The second also shows the Colonial. The oldish car in the foreground in both belies the year. The original Gowey slides are dated, Dec. 22, 1965. Note that except for the Great Northern RR’s neon goat the transportation being promoted here is by air not rail.1965

ANOTHER CORRECTION:

For those who can remember it, Jean Sherrard’s “now” with its starburst lights, repeats the illuminated Christmas star that the Bon Marche Department Store once hung from its nearby corner at 4th and Pine. [Correction! Thank goodness I was wrong – or rather very limited – and thanks to Kimberly M. Reason for her gentle correction. Many readers with Christmastime familiarity with these corners will know that the Bon star still shines, now as a local Macy’s tradition. My ignorance, I confess, is the result of living increasingly in the past and rarely going downtown – especially in December. Reason writes, “I would appreciate it if you would let your readers know that this 51-year-old Seattle holiday tradition is more popular than ever.” This year I hope to be there. And Reason recommends that you can find images of the star and parade on this link: http://www.macys.com/catalog/syndicated/remote/remotesyndication.ognc?Brand=PRESSRELEASE.

1965 - CIRCUS WORLD with John Wayne and Rita Hayworth was released in 1964. This is its "open all night" second run.
DETAIL from Bradley's 1949 Kodachrome printed whole above.

Forever Amber: A Film Review by Bill White

Published on October 18, 2009

Film and Music critic Bill White has kindly responded to our request that he write a review of the film showing at the Colonial Theatre in 1949, as revealed in the Kodachrome night slide feature Westlake Night Lights in the Seattle Now and Then published just below this insertion.

An historical romance set during the reign of Charles II,  “Forever Amber,”  directed by Otto Preminger in 1947, is as  dark and claustrophobic a look at society in collapse as any of the underworld-themed B-movies released during the same time. Two years later, Anthony Mann would accomplish something similar with “Reign of Terror,” although his film of the French revolution was a modest black and white production running less than 90 minutes, while “Forever Amber” was shot in Technicolor and ran nearly 2 ½ hours.

It wasn’t until Francis Coppola’s “The Godfather” that the interiors on a major studio film were underlit to such infernal effect.  Cinematographer Leon Shamroy, who took the opposite approach the year before in “Leave Her to Heaven,” in which he contrasted the dark story with a brilliantly vibrant visual palette, makes the royal court of Charles II as ghoulishly oppressive as the decaying chambers of Roderick Usher.  Although Shamroy won four Oscars for his cinematography, including one for “Leave Her to Heaven,” and was nominated for another eleven, he is largely forgotten today.

The story of Amber begins in 1644, during Cromwell’s rebellion against King Charles I, when the baby girl is discovered and taken in by one of the Puritans who later stands against the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, when Amber resists her foster father’s decision to marry her off to a neighboring farmer.   He responds to her refusal by telling her that “vanity is Satan at work in the female soul.”   Paradoxically, it is the vanity of the male sex that makes Amber’s tale such a miserable one.

As Bruce Carlton, the callous privateer whose love Amber is obsessed with securing, Cornell Wilde walks atilt with surety of his superiority to every other living thing, including King Charles, who banishes him to the sea when threatened by his sexual rivalry.

George Sanders is suitably disdainful as the  king who can stop the performance of a play by his appearance in the royal box,  but relies on a revolving cast of compliant female subjects to maintain the  illusion of being  loved. In the end, when he leaves Amber’s quarters after her final rejection of him as a man, he calls “come, my children,” to a pack of faithful dogs.

It is Linda Darnell’s voluptuously cheap incarnation of Amber that gives the film its poverty row atmosphere.   She lowers the bar, just as Jennifer Jones did the previous year for David O. Selznick  in “Duel in the Sun,” on any grand aspirations producer Darryl Zanuck might have had for a prestige film.  It is because she drags the story into the gutter that gives “Forever Amber” its scent of damnation, and lifts it above the conventional drivel of those romantic melodramas commandeered by the crippling competence of a Bette Davis, Vivian Leigh, or Katherine Hepburn. The screen would not again be endowed with such a fleshy heroine until Elizabeth Taylor embodied Cleopatra in 1963, a film that was also produced at 20th Century Fox by Darryl Zanuck,

“Forever Amber” was one of the few films director Preminger didn’t produce himself, and evidence of Zanuck’s interference is all over it.  This is one of the factors that make the film such a fascinating artifact.  Although Preminger remained under contract to Fox for another five years, the name of Zanuck never again appeared on one of his films.

At least for this parade on Independence Day, 1957, the traffic is heading south on Fourth Avenue. The view looks north to Pike Street with the Joshua Green Building on the left and the Colonial Theatre's sign showing its vibrant yellow. For the moment, I don't recall who took this shot. Was it Shaw? Was it Gowey or Bradley? It is - certainly - dated.

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AMERICAN HOTEL MISCELLANY

Another use for the 1912 Baist real estate map. Fourth Ave. is on the left and Pike Street at the bottom. Note the big Westlake Market at the northeast corner of Fifth and Pine. For fresh produce it was a competitor with the Pike Place Market.

Looking east on Pine Street from the then new Standard Furniture store at the northwest corner of Pine and Second. Far right is the familiar ranks of bay windows on the west facade of the American Hotel. Also showing here, left of center, is the long sign for the Westlake Market at the northeast corner of 5th and Pine.  Ca. 1910
The Seaboard Building (Northern Bank) has reached its full height, far right. Most of the American Hotel is hidden here behind its neighbor across Westlake, the Plaza Hotel. The Westlake Market sign appears again, left-of-center. The photo was taken from the New Washington Hotel (now the Josephinum) at Second and Stewart.

Quiz: Another look southeast from the New Washington Hotel, but is it earlier or later than the one above it? Would you recommend this quiz to other teachers of Seattle History?  You say, you don’t have any.  Can you find the Wilkes Theatre in this subject, or for that matter in the one above? (Clue: It is at the southwest corner of 5th and Pine.)
THEN: Photographed in 1921 by the Webster and Stevens Studio for a Seattle Times report on the Wilkes Theatre’s imminent change from stage shows to motion pictures. (Courtesy of MOHAI)
Jean's repeat is also used in the new MOHAI's exhibit on Seattle's historical theatres, for which he did all the repeats - I believe. He gets around. It was, however, soon after this effort that the engine in his car gave out. Should we compete with Channel 9 including a request for a replacement?

WILKES THEATRE (We prefer the continental spelling.)

I first learned of the Wilkes Theatre from Seattle’s silent film expert David Jeffers.  Typical of David, his research on the Wilkes is thorough, and I was tempted to simply quote extensively from his recent letter.  I will, however, dwell instead on some implications of this Webster and Stevens studio photograph that looks south over Pine Street at the Wilkes’ full-facade at the southwest corner with 5th Avenue.  It was Jean Sherrard, my cohort in this feature, who first showed it to me.

This photograph is one of about forty of historic movie theatre locations that Jean has repeated this Spring for what will be the Museum of History and Industry’s first “temporary exhibit” when it opens later this year in the museum’s new home, the Naval Armory that is still being converted for MOHAI at the south end of Lake Union.  The exhibit’s title will be “Celluloid Seattle – A City at the Movies.”

Let us remember that another collection of Jean’s photography of contemporary Seattle is still up as part of the last “temporary exhibit” at the now soon to be old MOHAI.  In case you have forgotten – or not visited it yet – its name is “Repeat Photography” and it was first curated early last year by Jean, Beranger Lomont and myself.  It will be waiting for your visit until the fifth of June.

Returning to the Wilkes, for such a grand presentation, it was relatively short-lived.  Built of concrete as the Alhambra in 1909 with 1600 fireproof seats, it tried vaudeville, musical comedy, melodrama, and photoplays (films) sometimes mixed and other times as committed specialties.  This view of it appeared in The Seattle Times on April 10, 1921 with an explanation that it was soon “to become a motion picture house.”  That week was its last for scheduling still live acting on stage with the Wilkes Stock Company in a romantic comedy named “That Girl Patsy.”

In the summer of 1922 the Wilkes became a venue not for film or theater but for political rallies and other temporary uses like worship for the Fourth Church of Christ Scientist. Next, in 1923 the corner began its long history of selling women’s finery.

Our block recorded from the then new Medical Dental Bldg. The Wilkes Theatre, at the bottom, has fled stage and screen for retail. (Used courtesy of Ron Edge)
Another Quiz: Similar but not the same as the above subject, is this sunlighted afternoon earlier or later? Would you recommend this exercize to your principal?
An early record of both the American Hotel, with its bay windows and the Bank which also likes being identified with the nation - or perhaps western hemisphere - as signed on the roof. Compare this view with the few that follow, which show the hotel building after it was remodeled for offices with more windows but without its bays, which by the 1920s were falling from fashion.
The new bayless facade on the right, and the new Medical Dental Building down Westlake right-of-center, in the mid-1920s. The Plaza has by now changed its name to the Hotel Georgian Annex.
An interruption with another side look at the old bay windows on the American, right-of-center.
An artist's rendering of the new west facade. (I have lost the citation and so the date, but it surely originates in the early 1920s.)
The full west facade for the Seaboard with a sample of the forsaken hotel's new facade on the left. (Courtesy, Lawton Gowey)
The block in color, ca. 1950. A postcard.
Frank Shaw's record of work-in-progress on the "new business facade's" remodel to Century 21 "forward thrust" standards. The slide is date March 17, 1962. The Worlds Fair is a month from opening.
Frank Shaw and his Hasselblad return - probably for Christmas of that year, 1962. The reader could compare the two Shaw recordings for changes. (Only a suggestion. Not a quiz.)

FINALLY, Our Block BEFORE the WAR, In (Some Kind of) TROUBLE, and AFTER.


 

 

 

 

 

One thought on “Seattle Now & Then: The American Hotel on Westlake”

  1. Could you tell me where you found the 10th picture from the bottom of this post captioned: “An early record of both the American Hotel, with its bay windows and the Bank…” I’m unable to find it anywhere else except your blog post. I’m trying to find out who has the rights to it. I’ve scoured MOHAI, but haven’t had any luck. Much appreciated.

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