BB has just returned from Warsaw to Paris. She sent us photos and tells the story of her trip:

Here are few photos of my discovery of Warsaw , where I traveled on two missions: Beata Czapska’s  exhibition of sculptures with my photos of her creation in the French embassy in Warsaw, and to bring Tomohiro Hatta’s file to participate in the famous concourse Chopin, where the pianist winner receives a prize and the start of great career.

We rented a flat in the center in a district called Zacheta (which means encouragement, stimulation), but the day before our arrival, the Polish owner forgot about our rental and we stayed in a flat which reminded me of the images of the communist East; I couldn’t say where it was located because we arrived at midnight and left this not so attractive place very early.

Much more optimistic, the Royal Way (in Polish, “Trakt Krolewski”) is composed of three streets.  I could compare it to the Champs Elysées in Paris, with the biggest monuments and where the most famous shops are gathered.  Polish  people like to walk along on Saturday.

Here is the view from our flat, the protestant church of Zacheta with its impressive dome and birds on the tree!!! The temperature was exceptional, it was like spring time.

Following the Royal Way we arrive at the castle and the historical district of Warsaw, but it is a fact that every structure was rebuilt after the Second World War’s massive destruction, exactly the same than before.  It was declared a national oeuvre by the communist government, this titanic work of rebuilding summoned up all the people from 1949 to 1963.
Here is Rynek Starego Miasta, place of the old town where there is a Christmas market:

Two guys in the market were making candles, I adore their look !

In this district we can feel the dynamism of Warsaw, an entirely rebuilt town, and its modern  architecture is disconcerting  for a European capital (no patina)!  Since 2004 with Europe, Warsaw is booming,  buildings are growing in this district.

Palace of culture and science, this monument is the highest of Poland, built by Stalin “to the glory of of socialism” in the 1950s.  Doesn’t it make you think of another building?

The view from the top:

The Kurcharzy Restaurant is a marvel located in the kitchens of a palace hotel now transformed into offices; the atmosphere is very convivial, we could observe the chefs cooking …

But I was immediately fascinated by this lady’s chignon in front of me – she made me think of Tippy Hedren playing in Hitchcock’s movies.  But she was also fascinated by the people in front of her…

Our neighbor, a Polish man who spoke very good French told us the fascinating man was Volker Schlöndorff [ed. note: director of ‘The Tin Drum’, amongst many other films] who was in town for a German film festival.

I went up to Schlöndorff, introduced myself, invited him to our exhibition, and asked if I could photograph him with his dinner companions.  It was delightful to meet one of my heroes!

He wanted to go to the exhibition right then, but it had not yet opened!

And now, a couple of photos from our exhibition at the French Embassy. My photographic studies of Beata were in the form of transparencies, mounted on the windows – I was quite pleased with the effect.

Finally, here are friends at the end of the opening:

We very much enjoyed discovering Warsaw together, even though, on occasion, it wasn’t so easy.  Nevertheless, our adventure was graced with little miracles.

Bérangère sends us the following delights from the Dordogne:

There are so many ways to be amazed in Périgord; it is a province set with so many natural and architectural marvels, and sometimes we can contemplate them both.

Travel through time in the Valley of Vezère (a site classified Patrimoine de l’Humanité by UNESCO) from prehistory to  history.  We can discover 1500 castles; many  have  gardens, but the ones presented are exceptional.  Their maintenance costs a fortune; the Eyrignac gardens and the Marqueyssac hanging gardens are classified among the most beautiful in France.

Chateau de Hautefort at the top of the hill is surrounded by a great garden.  The most extraordinary part is the jardin à la Française on the south  terrace, where we embrace the panorama, and walk through the vegetal domes…

(click on photos to enlarge)

Traditionally, Jardin à la Française are comprised only of green sculpted vegetation; the flowers below at Hautefort are a modern evolution (blasphemy for the purists).

The Eyrignac Manor House gardens were designed in the 18th century by the Marquis de Calprenede.  Here is found topiary art at its best; the experience for every visitor is marvelous – what a joy to see the apple trees of a true Garden of Eden!

It was very moving to see one of the gardeners cutting bushes with scissors.  The image was symbolic to me; such vast labors to attempt perfection, as in life.

Castelnaud’s garden, dating from the middle ages, is designed in the shape of a cross like a monastery garden.

It is protected by a fence lined by roses, the aromatic plants at upper left, the utilitarian ones upper right; vegetables, lower right, and medicinal herbs lower left; in the center there is an almond tree and vines.

The Jardin de Marqueyssac is 22 hectares big, with 150,000 boxes… What a belvedere in the valley of Dordogne!!!  The castle in the distant hills on the left is Castelnaud.

With panoramic views of the Dordogne, the little marvel of Marqueyssac was built just  before the revolution. The castle roof was made with lauzes (traditional stones cut for roofs ) and weighs nearly 500 tonnes.

(click to enlarge photos)

BB shares luminous photos with us from her five days in Istanbul with spouse Denis and son Jean-Baptiste. She writes:

… Istanbul was such a marvel, a revelation, that I am still wondering why I didn’t go there before…  The art is so rich, so impressive…  We can feel the influence  in our own art and architecture, in the roman churchs,  the “Orientalists” painters love, I feel amazed for life!

Let’s begin with a brightly-colored sampling of life on the street.

(Those in the know may recognize Jean-Baptiste in the last thumbnail.)

Now a few marvels of architecture, beginning with Santa Sophia, the astonishing Byzantine cathedral, later mosque, and current museum.

And of course, BB’s view of the coupole, about which she writes:

It has been under restoration for the last sixteen years, just enough time to learn and practise Turkish…

Below, thumbnails of the Blue Mosque throughout the day and evening.

…and at night:

Click on the thumbnail below for a view of the Blue Mosque’s coupole:

And what visit to Istanbul would be complete without dervishes?

But the last image is reserved for Haïdar, the owner of the lovely Hôtel Ararat where BB and her family stayed, directly across from the Blue Mosque, pictured here with his son.

(A few weeks ago, photographer Bérangère Lomont sent us a remarkable photo essay from Paris detailing the first steps in bringing this architectural and artistic treasure back to life.  Now she returns to chart the progress of the ongoing restoration in the Marais. Her update, first in English, then in French:)

I really love this phase of the restoration – the following photos illustrate its progress.

J’aime beaucoup ce moment de la restauration, ces photos montrent vraiment  son évolution.

In this picture, you may notice the varnish has been removed, the colors are fresher, it is marvelous to discover the painting!

Sur la première image, on peut remarquer , que le vernis a été enlevé , et les couleurs  sont fraiches, c’est merveilleux de découvrir la peinture !

We recover the original painting. Below, see the marvelous restorers in action.

On retrouve la peinture originale. Voici les restaurateurs en action, magnifiques aussi.

(Click on photos to enlarge)

Bérangère Lomont, our eyes and ears in Paris, has been documenting the restoration of the Hôtel de Sully in the Marais. By way of introduction, she writes:

Without a doubt, the Hôtel de Sully is one of the most beautiful buildings in the Marais. Located on the old Gallo-Roman way which leads from Lutèce to Melun (and later became rue Saint Antoine) it was built during the reign of King Henri IV, first urbanist of Paris, on today’s Place des Vosges in the heart of Marais.

In 1625, Mesme Gallet, superintendent of finance and bon vivant, began to build a private mansion with a garden and an orangery, but sold it unfinished.  For nine years, it languished until its third owner, 74 year old Maximilien de Béthune, first Duke  of Sully, completed its interior decor.

The organization of the rooms is very typical of an apartment of the 17th century; the painted decors by Antoine Paillet with their large simulated perspectives give the illusion of space, which was in the mood in the Marais because of the tiny houses and the narrow streets.

The Hôtel kept the name of Sully, although it became an investment property with little shops in the 19th century.  In 1944 it was bought by the State and entirely renovated. Since 2000, it has become the head office of Centre des Monuments Nationaux. In 2009, the restoration began of the façades and of the Duchess ‘s Apartment (added to the original structure in 1660) under the direction of Atelier Arcoa manager Jean-Sylvain Fourquet.

In the spirit of “Now and Then” I offer the following record of restoration…

(to read the rest of BB’s remarkable behind-the-scenes photo essay, please click here)

Here’s a real treat, an extraordinary photo essay from photographer Bérangère Lomont, our French connection.

BB (as her friends call her) takes to the rooftops of Paris to capture stunning and utterly unique views of Paris.

Joining Paris’ roofers with special permission from roofer’s union boss Francis Arsene, she clambers above the arrondissements to capture some remarkable never-before-seen aspects of her beloved city.

Don’t miss the whole story right here!

The Tuber  Melanosporum divinely ornaments all that it accompanies. Finely sliced in an omelette,  slipped under the skin of poultry, or melted in cheese, its perfume is so powerful and unforgettable that it is recognized as the jewel of Périgord and called “black diamond”.

Although other regions are producing some bigger quantities, the truffles from Sorges and Sarlat remain the stars of the appellation.

The harvest of this  little underground mushroom is from December to January; the two fairs in Sarlat and Sorges crown the season.

La Tuber Mélanosporum ou truffe noire du Périgord agrémente divinement tout ce qu’elle accompagne, émincée dans une omelette, glissée sous la peau d’une poularde, ou fondue dans un fromage, son  parfum est si puissant et inoubliable , qu’elle est unanimement reconnue comme le joyau du Périgord et à ce titre  est surnommée “diamant noir”…

Bien que d’autres régions en produisent de plus grandes quantités, les truffes de Sorges et de Sarlat demeurent les stars de l’appellation.

Ce petit champignon souterrain se récolte l’hiver de Décembre à janvier, et les deux foires de Sarlat et de Sorges couronnent la saison.

Hunting truffles is a Perigourdian tradition and also a passion. In 1870 truffles were really abundant:  6 tonnes in Sorges against 32 kilogs prized in the market today; but the change of climate, the over harvesting of the truffiers during  the two wars provoked its disappearance. Now finding a truffle is always a gift.

La recherche de la truffe est une vraie tradition et aussi une passion périgourdine, en 1870 la truffe était très abondante : 6 tonnes à Sorges, contre 32 kilogs primés  au marché cette année , mais le changement de climat, l’abandon des truffières pendant les guerres ont provoqué sa disparition , maintenant  c ‘est toujours un don du ciel, lorsque l’on en découvre une.

To find the truffles, Pierre’s little dog Tess is extraordinary.  Pierre encourages her and says : “Cherche Tess, cherche” and she runs happily and shows the spot with her front  leg.

Pour chercher les dons du ciel, la petite chienne de Pierre est extraordinaire, elle parcourt la truffière joyeusement  pendant que Pierre l’encourage: “cherche Tess, cherche” , elle s’arrête et montre d’un trait avec la patte avant , l’endroit où se trouve la truffe.

And here are a few snapshots of the markets in Sarlat and Sorge:

Of course, before buying truffles, you must smell them.

And the weighing of the truffles is serious business.
Le moment de la pesée de la truffe  est très sérieux.

Only 21 grammes.
Seulement 21 grammes…

And here are the members of the confrérie in Sorges who give the prize for the best truffle:

Also while we were coming back home, I couldn’t help to admire every castle at every curve of the road, thinking of the richness of this country and dreaming of all the diamonds buried in the woods…

Dans le sillage des truffes, au retour, comme toujours nous découvrions un chateau à chaque tournant, et je ne pouvais m’empêcher de m’extasier sur ce Périgord magnifique et imaginer des diamants noirs enfouis dans les sous-bois.

Can’t you just hear Notre-Dame ‘s bells ringing on this sunny Sunday morning ?

The snow is always very shy in Paris, it lasted only one day, here is Notre Dame and two sisters…

(click to enlarge)

At the first grain of snow, parisians spread salt to avoid ice, so the streets become very muddy, the parcs are closed, and only a few places are white like the surroundings of notre-Dame.  Do you salt the snow?

(click to see full size)

I adore this time of year.  It was really frizzzing on the Champs Elysées, you can see the Obélisque of Place de la Concorde right in the middle of Ferris Wheel!

(you know what to do, click to enlarge)

For the first time of my life I went to the annual fair of cocks or turkeys in Varaignes in Périgord which is every 11th of November.

This little village of Périgord is in fact the capital of cocks. Every farmer brings  the most beautiful animals which are lead to the village with guards in traditional suits, members of the “confrérie du dindon”, who meet some others members  of the “confrérie of volailles” ( poultry) in  Licques North of France, they go though the market like stars ( a little festival of Cannes). This fair is very popular, it is true  we forget famine, here begins a giant banquet dressed for at least 700 persons.

The atmosphere was  marvelous, out of time !  I noticed they were selling original clogs, berets and charentaises, some traditional food like kilometers of boudins,  well a little bit trash for Paul.

I thought of my grand-father who was used to go to these fairs and was bringing back food, presents, cloths he could find before we invented the supermarket.

Bérangère writes:

Here are three  photos in Périgord in the neighbourhood of Maison Rouge where my Uncle Claude and Aunt Yanick are living, it has been raining so much all the 4 days long, and we spent so much time around the divine table to eat so many splendorous meals that I decided the last  morning to wake up early and walk at the beginning of the day on my own, smell the wet morning country  !!!

For the first time in Europe, Jeff Koons has a big exhibition of his sculptures; he is invited to show them in Chateau de Versailles. A big debate has started between those who find this show cool and funny and the others who shout it is a pure scandal. What do you think ?

(click twice on photos to fully enlarge)

Sent today, another hot scoop and visual feast from our intrepid and inspired Parisienne:

We were waiting for the Pope for two days, no cars parked in the street, so many cops around, no shops opened around rue de Poissy …

And suddenly this morning, after canceling an appointment with a printer, and explaining to him that he could never make it to me because of traffic jams and the metro stations being closed, I decided just to live the event : “the pope’s visit”.

I paid a visit to my friends who own the hotel Familia rue des Ecoles just in front of the rue de Poissy. They feel so fine since the grand opening of the College des bernardins; the musicians playing there are staying at the hotel along with many visitors too. They invited me to come to room 53 and photograph.

(click on photos to enlarge)

In the adjoining rooms, my neighbors were also interested in the pope:

Marvelous Sylvie who, with her husband, owns the Familia and Minerva hotels:

The pope arrives but he is so far away. We feel so disappointed.

I went down to street level. If I could just find a little place along the Quai from the college des bernardins to Notre Dame, I imagined it might be my only chance to see the pope.

What a thrill!

Of course, I was new in the crowd and was surprised when everyone began screaming in rhythm “Benedetto…Benedetto!” as they call Benoit XVI. It was a very happy time anyway.

(received yesterday from BB:)

Another great day in the 5th arrondissement. Benoit XVI is going to visit the brand new and restored Collège des Bernardins which just reopened last Thursday on the rue des Bernardins.  The Cistercian college was built in 1245, was a famous place of research, diverted during  the revolution,   became a fire station in the 19è century, and now is returned to research, lectures …

All the cars had to move off the surrounding streets and the shops will be closed. The poor Pope couldn’t bring back “little souvenirs” to his family from the dead 5th arrondissement.

Here are a few photos of the opening, many priests, sponsors and a few catholic ladies, impressive and cold.

(click to see full photos)

BB writes:

Yesterday was a magnificent day with an interesting light.  I met my friend Mirella who lives in Belleville. We had a nice walk on our favourite trails, and visited her Mexican friend Raoul, an engraver who settled 18 years ago in the rue des Cascades in Paris’ 20th arrondissement (more photos to come).

Le théâtre de la vie des Génovéfains a repris depuis le 1er Septembre. On s’ennuyait, les immeubles étaient tristes, et les rideaux des fenêtres étaient immobiles.

(The theatre of the inhabitants of Montagne Sainte Geneviève resumed on the 1st of September.  We had been bored; even the buildings were sad, with motionless window curtains) 

Photo du 4 Août
 

Hier soir, les fenêtres s’éclairent et j’attends le scoop, (modérément).

(Yesterday evening, the windows lit up, and I waited for the scoop (in moderation)) 

(photo du 1er Septembre)

Bérangère Lomont, our dear friend from Paris, will join us here whenever she has the time and the inclination, and share her stunning images, visions, passing fancies, and deepest thoughts. We are thrilled to have her onboard and blogging with us.

BB will post in both French and English for all her friends and soon-to-be admirers.

BB with apple tart and yankee apron