All posts by pdorpat

Our Daily Sykes #472 – Somewhere in Northeast Oregon

The snarl of canyons that compose the northeast corner of Oregon appear from space like leavings trimmed from a fir tree, one raised for Christmas. Of course the snarl makes ultimate sense as all the waterways/branches make it to the Columbia River, most of them by way of the Snake. Almost certainly - or until proven otherwise - this scene is part of all that, but which part I have not determined. We will soon come upon the 500th Sykes and that, I think, will be it. Upon review I suspect that I will find at least one occasion on which I have repeated one of Horace's slides - and this scene might be an example of that. I have not kept perfect track of my own clippings. (click to enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #470 – Snake River Bridge at Clarkston/Lewiston

As with Our Daily Sykes #468 Washington is on the left and Idaho on the right. The view looks north at the same subjects as #468 they are studied here from a distant prospect upstream from the bridge and with a telescopic lens. The river, of course, turns west (left) at the base of that ridge, and here the hill appears and feels like I remember it as a child. The serpentine highway that dropped from the wheat fields above to the twin cities below was a great excitement to descend. But not for Annie Grabbe who while visiting my parents from Grand Forks, North Dakota in about 1948 and joining us for a drive to Lewiston - for reasons I don't remember - she went shaking in the back seat next to me as we started the swerving drop to the river. She called it "car sickness" and I marveled at the very idea that such a ride could sicken anyone. By now however things have changed and I can get sick from driving exposed highways as well as Annie Crabbe. Rest in peace. Unlike for #468, this Sykes leaves the truer impression that highway department artifacts are rather puny by comparison with these elephantine hills. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #468 – The CLARKSTON-LEWISTON SNAKE RIVER BRIDGE

In the life of Our Daily Sykes we have seen this bridge, and these hills before. We used the clue before too, and because it brought us to the "truth" we don't need it now. But we can make note of it: the monumental "C" near the top of the ridge showing beneath the bridge. It stands for Clarkston. The lift bridge replaced the 1899 cantilevered span between Clarkston,Washington (on the left) and Lewiston, Idaho (on the right) in 1939. (I may be off a year.) Judging from Horace Sykes' travels the new bridge may be a dozen years old here, or less. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #464 – Dry Falls

(Click TWICE to Enlarge)

Dry Fall and a glimpse of Dry Fall Lake too.   The environs can be learned below from two of the thousands of recordings taken from the visitor’s interpretative center or near it.  A brief study below should find the features of the cliff that Horace Sykes shows above.  An alternative is penultimate to the bottom where Mrs. and Mr. Giezentanner pose for real photo postcard artist Ellis with some of the Dry Falls Park observation shelter showing on the left.  The Giezentanners are described as the caretakers and lecturers for the park.  The couple stands on a short bridge that leads to a monolith that is exposed and feels so.   That fenced prospect appears in Jean and my book “Washington Then and Now” on pages 144 and 145.  Below the Giezentanners is the billboard that for many years romanticized these rocks and imagined falls.   The natural interpretation of the place and its historical forces has changed some since the board was raised.  You may easily find contemporary interpretations using the net.   There is among them a documentary – with animations and working geologists – that about six years ago was shown on PBS.  I have lost the title.

 

Our Daily Sykes #461 – Lust for Life

The only identification with confidence here is “Lust for Life,” the 1934 novel by Irving Stone pulled from the brilliance of the letters that Vincent van Gogh wrote to his brother Theo.  It is the orange book on the bottom of the pile resting on the table in the lower slide.  I suspect that the persons remembered here are both relatives of Horace Sykes – ones living in Oregon.  I surely do not know that and there is little chance that these two delicate figures will ever be identified.  However, portraits like these are very rare in the Sykes collection, and the most of them – the ones that are identified –  are of members of his family and a few of their friends, most often at Christmas.  (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #459 – The Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Dec. 22, 1948

For Horace Sykes a rare city subject - the brand new Seattle Post-Intelligencer building got his attention. The P-I with its globe entered service for Seattle's oldest daily pulp in 1948 and remained here at 6th and Wall until 1988 when the Hearst vehicle moved nearer the shores of Elliott Bay and took its ball with it. (Here we will whisper "iconic.") As then suspected, it was the P-I's second big step to dissolution. The first was its "Joint Operating Agreement" with The Seattle Times. The JOL was launched in 1983 before the move. At the time persons working both at The Times and The P-I foresaw the failure of the P-I and wore special t-shirts lamenting their premonitions. And yet - to indulge a strict mixing of metaphors - it took a quarter-century for the folding to unfold. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #458 – Grand Coulee Dam, East End

When the Theo Erdman and Ida Girena Christiansen-Dorpat family moved from Grand Forks, North Dakota to Spokane, Washington in 1946, we all understood that we would soon be living with the power of the Grand Coulee Dam's generators and of its reputation as one of the modern wonders of the world. It was on the short list of marvels, and then still the largest construction in the world, when measured by how long a two-lane highway one could make from the cement needed to make the dam. By now its superlatives have been surpassed and I do not remember the miles of the imagined highway. The spectacle of the dam's cascades were ordinarily dampened by its east-west position. The spillway looks roughly north and so is ordinarily back-lighted. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #455 – 1000 Springs Ranch

Among the hundreds of Horace Sykes own slides are a few by others, most often members of one or another of the photography clubs he belonged to. Club members would sometimes travel together on club excursions. For instance Ira S. Doyle and Horace were part of a group that visited - if my memory serves me well enough - Hells Canyon together. We have a slide showing Horace at the Canyon, which is signed by Ira. And here is another Ira slide that is folded into the Sykes collection. I include it for contrast. While Horace is always concerned about finding another expression of sublime nature and values the qualities we count as picturesque, this view of nature - the 1000 springs - is fronted by some sort of utility structure - a station serving something - that is quite the opposite of picturesque. And yet we do get these waterfalls, which by the banal context created with this snapshot, come forward as freaks of nature. We will wonder if Ira had a handle on the irony. Whatever, he sent the slide to Horace - perhaps as a request. It may be a subject that Horace Sykes wanted for some unexplained reason but which he was not able, or would not dare to impetuously interrupt his photographic dream, to take himself. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #454 – Hells Canyon Looking North From the Future Site of the Hells Canyon Dam

Horace Sykes visited this deep prospect in Hells Canyon by car. At the time, ca. 1949, there were no dams in the canyon. Three were eventually built, and the last of these, the Hells Canyon Dam, was built here. Horace's prospect is from near the present spillway behind which the river is about 150 higher now than it was then. Horace, again, did not caption his slide, but I found the location with another flight via Google Earth. The mountain at the scene's center - with the green top - reaches about 5,750 feet above sea level. The dam is much lower at 1600 elevation. The site is about 20 miles down stream from the Oxbow dam where Oregon State highway 86 reaches the river and crosses it with a bridge. Horace reached his prospect on the now paved road that continues north along the Idaho side of the canyon and includes some of the more exposed driving in the northwest. It is not recommended for someone timorous of heights. The Hells Canyon Dam began producing power in 1967. It was, of course, to the considerable injury of the fish that once made this one of the great spawning paths. It is about 8 miles below the Seven Devil mountains on the Idaho side (to the right) and about 10 miles south of Hat Point on the Oregon side, which Horace also visited and photographed. Hat Point is more that 6900 feet elevation and the Devils reach over 9000 feet. These elevations make this the deepest canyon in North America. Sometime after Horace's visit the Hells Canyon Creek Visitors Center was opened just downstream from the dam and around the first corner or bend in the road that shows here on the Oregon or left side. (Click to Enlarge)
The Google Earth image above-left is recorded (by some computer's calculation) from directly behind (south) the Hells Canyon Dam's spillway. If I have calculated this correctly Horace Sykes slide of the same general scene was taken from a location somewhat south of the computer-position and so now about 150 feet underwater. (click to enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #451 – Two Puzzling Lakes in Glacier National Park

Among Horace Sykes slides are one hundred or so copies of paintings.   These two are identified with names attached to their frames.  The names, however, are either wrong – actually misspelled – or no longer in use.  First what the unknown painter has named Crossley Lake is Cosley Lake.

Joe Cosley was a hunter-trapper who frequented this area and later worked as a park ranger once his hunting ground had been nationalized as a protected park.  Cosley Lake is about 10 miles north of what was called Lake McDermott, the name used by the painter on his frame, before it was changed to Swiftcurrent Lake.   It took awhile to sort this out.  There are quite a few postcards of McDermott Lake on line but none that I found indicated where in the park it was.   One of the cards described it as near Mt. Wilbur and Mt. Grinnell, so I went looking for them.

Soon I was confident that the little lake named Swiftcurrent, with the largest hotel in the park (Many Glaciers Hotel – and  many rooms too), was once named McDermott after a lumberman in the late 1890s.  And I also found the waterfalls at the western end of the lake.    The name was changed from McDermott to Swiftcurrent in 1928, perhaps because the creek was so named and also the popular mountain pass and trail that cross the divide and lead one to Lake McDonald on the west side of the park.  Swiftcurrent lake is only about a quarter mile wide when measured east-west directly across from the hotel.  The painting also looks west and a little south.  One half mile behind the painter is the western end of the six-mile long finger lake, Lake Sherburne.   An earth dam was built at its western end and the lake is now a reservoir for ultimately irrigating the farm lands of Montana and Canada to the east of the park and to the sides of the Milk River.

The Teepee in this charming but primitive painting has a cartoon size. The mountain upper right is Cleveland, the highest in the park. The artist has signed his painting on the bottom-right corner, but I cannot figure it, and Horace Sykes' slide is not in the sharpest focus. (click to enlarge)
The same artist on the wing of a crow could have made is south and a little east form Crosley Lake with his brushes and the rest to Swiftcurrent/McDermott Lake in less than ten miles. But along the way there would be a few high peaks to cross or fly around. The artist's actual trip may have been four times as long as the bird's. Mt.Wilbur is on the right, Mt. Gould on the left and Grinnell Point dominates the center. It was George Bird Grinnell who is credited with being the main mover behind the making of Glacier National Park. In 1887 Grinnell was the first non-native to walk on the glacier that was named for him then by Lt. J. H. Beacon who accompanied him. By now much of Grinnell Glacier is gone and the same is true with the rest of the park's namesake ice.
Grabbing a montage of related images, which include on the far right the photo of Wilbur Mountain and "McDermott Lake" that helped me identify it as Swiftcurrent Lake.
The top highly saturated and retouched look at Swiftcurrent Lake and the now familiar mountains beyond it includes the waterfall depicted in the painting.

Our Daily Sykes #450 – "Cypripedium . . ."

More likely to name a flower on a slide than a landscape, Horace Sykes captions this orchid "Cypripedium." And he adds, "Gratrixianum Aureum." The three terms are all used in orchid language, which is easily as articulated and earnestly fussy as that of spirits. Consulting wikipedia, we learn that "Cypripedium is a genus of 47 species of lady's-slipper orchids native to temperate and colder regions of the Northern Hemisphere. Some grow in tundra in Alaska and Siberia, which is an unusually cold habitat for orchids . . . Common names include slipper orchid, lady's slipper, mocassin flower, camel's foot, squirrel foot, steeple cap, Venus shoes and whippoorwill shoe." Of most relevance here is "Venus." On the webpage orchids.co.in we learn that the paphiopedilum gratrixianum is an undemanding Venus's shoe of average beauty, attractive for cultivators for its fairly large flowers and very low cultivation requirement." But hold on. With this gratrixianum we are no in Alaska but rather "the species come from Laos, northern Vietnam and Thailand." This example, whatever its name, sits potted on a sideboard in the Sykes Magnolia home, in direct sunlight off Puget Sound. Horace certainly loved his orchids. There are hundreds more slides of them.

Our Daily Sykes #448 – Near Hells Canyon

Almost deep enough for Hells Canyon, but not that canyon from Hat Point on the Oregon Side. It takes a bit of endurance to drive up to Hat Point, but Horace did it ca. 1948. There's little or no evidence that he visited the Idaho side of the our deepest canyon. I think this is more likely near Hells Canyon than above the canyon itself - an Oregon tributary to the Snake River. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #447 – "More Spatial Relations"

This reminds me of a college course in aesthetics. The professor - Yates was his name - chose a principal text that promoted "spatial relations" as what art was "about" or concerned with. The class did not object or resist this reduction. Like converts having no former religion we embraced it. If one gives "spatial relations" an opportunity or a break it will grow on one. Everything has them. "If a physical object happens to be fairly firm and coherent internally and extends up, down, north, south, east, west, hence and ago, it is likely to be called a body." And that is just the start. (Click to Enlarge these Spatial Relations)

Our Daily Sykes #446 – Hoover Dam

Once also known as Boulder Dam, built in the Black Canyon of the Colorado in the early 1930s, took years to fill and in the process deadened the Colorado River estuary below the dam, killed more than 100 workers during the construction, described with superlatives but soon lost them to the Grand Coulee Dam, which was built soon after. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #436 – Temporarily Lost Butte

Since I am certain that I have seen this butte before during one of my Google Earth drives – probably through southeast Utah –  I have titled it the Temporarily Lost Butte, confident that I will find it again.   And yet I have just tried again and failed.  I looked mostly to the south of Moab, Utah.  That is where I imagined that I saw it earlier.  But now I have come upon so many buttes that resemble this one that my hide-and-seek is like confused by the sprite or hobgoblin or leprechan who has tied ribbons around every tree in the forest.  Still I will stay with “temporarily” and expect to come upon it again and learn its confident name.

Our Daily Sykes #433 – Seven Devils from Hat Point

Looking from the Oregon side of Hell's canyon across to the Idaho side with its chain of Seven Devils. Sykes has given us plenty of these and he visited the remote site more than once - perhaps with one or another of the camera clubs he belonged to. You may wish to key word search for Devils or Snake or Hat Point. Again Horace recorded this sometime soon after World War Two. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #430 – Crescent Lake

On April 22, 2010 for “Our Daily Sykes #10” we printed an addendum that joyfully announced that we had, at last, figured out the location of a subject nearly the same as this, but just down the road – although in that early installment of our Sykes’ routine, there was no arterial with a comforting yellow stripe as there is here.  There is also practically every comparison between the clouds in them.  That is, they were photographed from within moments of each other, and yet each is uniquely satisfying.   (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #429 – Governor's Ridge, Rainier National Park

Here Sykes visits one of the most frequented prospects for Mt. Rainier: looking west from Chinook Pass, at an elevation that’s a few feet more than 5,440.  With this detail he contrasts the rough rocks of Governor’s Ridge (with Mt. Governor near the scene’s center) with the swelling compressions of the Emmons Glazier beyond it.  Emmons is part of the most used climbing route to the top of Rainier.  There’s also a glimpse of the pointed Little Tahoma near the upper-left corner.  At 11138 feet it is the fifth highest mountain in the Cascades, after – and in order from the highest – Rainier, Shasta, Adams and Hood.   Little Tahoma is a young mountain, only about 500 thousand years.  Sykes moved some to the north (right) for the wider look at the same subject, below.  (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #428 – The Great Grave

About seven miles west of Walla Walla stands the roadside attraction of Marcus and Narcissa Whitman's grave site - and a dozen others. It is called "The Great Grave." Above it on a hill stands the memorial obelisk. Here Horace Sykes has framed his subject so that we can see both. The other names on The Great Grave are Andrew Rogers Jr., James Young Jr., Lucien Saunders, Nathan Kimball, Crockett A.Bewley, Isaac Gillen, John Sager, Francis Sager, Jacob Hoffman, Marsh, Amos Sales, and Jacob D. Hall. All were massacred by Cayuse Indians on Nov. 29-30 1847. (Click to Enlarge)

WOODLAND PARK AVE. – Addendum to WITHIN WOODLAND PARK

This late morning of Sunday August 21, 2011, I visited Woodland Park Avenue – a “speedway” the neighbors call it because its greater width encourages racing – and repeated “portraits” of a few homes, apartments and stores built on the street and included now among the historical tax inventory records of structures (taxable ones) photographed in 1937 or possibly 1938.   Almost certainly all of the structures then in place on Woodland Park Ave. were included in the late 1930’s survey of every taxable structure in King County.  The project was supported by the Works Progress Administration, which, like most of the “Great Depression’s make-work alphabet soup administrations,” produced more than a payroll for out-of-work citizens.  Many locals now have these late 1930s records of their homes hanging in their homes.

Woodland Park Ave. was improved early in the 1890s to bring the new trolley line north from 34th Street to the southern shore of Lake Union and from there in a counter-clockwise direction following an old logging railroad built just above the lake’s original shoreline.  All the structures along Woodland Park Ave. were distinguished and serenaded by the clattering trolleys that ran by them.   The neighborhood between 34th and about 40th and to the sides of Woodland Park Avenue was known as Edgewater.  (If you wish to make here a key word search you will find other images of its business district at 36th.)  Now this strip is variously claimed by Fremont and Wallingford.  The names “Freford” and Wallmont” are sometime used in compromise.  However, the northern border of this uncertain land grows even more contentious in the blocks north of 45th Street, that is, in Greenford or Wallgreen or Fregreen or Greenmont – depending.

(Should you wish to order a photographic print of any King County property extant in 1937-8 – like your home – contact archivist Greg Lange at the Washington State Archive, the Bellevue Community College branch.  The number is 425-564-3942.  Have a legal description of the property your are interested in: the tax number or the description of  its by the Addition Name, the Block Number within the Addition, and the Lot Number with that Block.)

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While snapping (below) 3626 Woodland Pk. Ave. I met someone who lives therein.  She told me that the great-grandchild of the builder had visited and told her that grandpa had been a stone mason by trade.  It sort of figures.

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This comparison is peculiarly deflating – a Greek temple, or a least a small town bank, divested of its columns and pride.

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Returning next to 36th Street for an earlier look at the Edgewater business district repeated below it with another photo taken this morning.

A circa 1897 map in which the Edgewater district is emphasized.  Note that no Wallingford as yet appears, although its oldest part, Latona, does.  Note also that the University District is still referred to as Brooklyn.  Finally, and far-left, the Ross Neighborhood is still remembered.

 

 

 

 

Seattle Now & Then: Within Woodland Park

Above: The fitting name for Woodland Park was especially enjoyed in its early years before Aurora Avenue was cut through it.   This view looks south from a since razed pedestrian bridge that was built a few yards south of N. 59th Street, at the park’s northern boundary.   (Courtesy, Municipal Archives.) Below:  To repeat the historic photograph’s prospect, Jean Sherrard used a ten-foot pole and stood next to the surviving river rock wall that was created to support the now long lost bridge.    CLICK TO ENLARGE then click again. . .

WITHIN WOODLAND PARK

Thru its first decade – the 1890s – the Green Lake electric trolley line followed the grade of the abandoned logging railroad that nearly clear-cut the neighborhood in the late 1880s. The rails followed the east and north shores and then stopped at the lake’s northwest corner.  After the Phinney family sold  to the city in 1900 the country estate they named Woodland Park, the Seattle Electric Company completed the trolley line around the lake and through the park.

That the park was appropriately named became easily evident during the city’s quarter century of truly explosive growth following its “Great Fire” of 1889.  As the trees were felled for new additions with compass-conforming grids of streets and facing homes this preserved copse of soaring firs on Phinney Ridge increasingly stood out and up.  It could easily be seen across Lake Union.

It is now more than thirty years since I first studied the “then” photo featured here in the Sherwood Collection of Seattle Parks history.  It is kept now in the Municipal Archives.  A few of the photographs gathered by park historian Don Sherwood revealed other parts of the about half-mile north-south route the trolley took through the park although the photos were often not “placed” or otherwise identified. After a lot of comparing and map reading, at last I know – this part of it.

The historical photo was recorded from a rustic pedestrian bridge that snugly crossed over the tracks between two picturesque walls or piers faced with hundreds of river rocks.  One of the approaches is gone but the west wall was kept, and can easily be visited on the auto-friendly road that climbs through the picnic sites from the tennis courts off West Green Lake Way North.

The line was built in harmony with the park.  Crossing shallow ravines, its wooden trestles, like the one here on the right, were appointed with rustic guard railings. The Seattle Electric Company promoted the Woodland Park crossing as one of the picturesque highlights on their Seeing Seattle excursions.

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Now Paul, have you anything to add?  Jean

Jean, less add than link.  We have with past features (on past Sundays) put up a few stories that touch on – or touch close to – this  one.  Ron Edge is searching for these, and will link them soon.  All you will need to do is touch the pictures he chooses, and presto they will be with you.  Meanwhile we will search for a few more  fresh subjects that are also fitting.

 

 

 

 

 

Our Daily Sykes #427 – Wallawallanian Gen "Skinny" Jonathan Mayhew Wainwright IV Comes Home

Born at Fort Walla Walla in 1883, “Skinny” Gen.J.M Wainwright IV, returned home after enduring  three years as a prisoner of Japan during World War Two.  “Skinny” was distinguished as the highest-ranking American POW during the war.   He and his troops surrendered to the Japanese forces at Corregidor.   He first saw action in the Philippines much earlier, in 1908-10 during the Moro Rebellion.   “Moro” stood for Muslim – those of the southern Philippines who resisted first Spanish and then American rule.   Skinny returned to the Philippines in 1940 to make ready for the Japanese invasion of 1941, and the battles that took Wainwright and thousands more into captivity.  Throughout he felt like he had “let his country down,” and was surprised that once freed and back home he was treated as a hero.  On Sept. 13, he got his own ticker-tape parade in New York.  Horace Sykes does not tell us when he was also celebrated his home town, Walla Walla.  [Click to Enlarge]

Our Daily Sykes #426 – East Over Lummi Island From Orcas Island

We have in this Sykes sequence shown another look towards Bellingham and the Cascades from Mt. Constitution, the highest point in the San Juan archipelago. Here, near the bottom, the small islands in Rosario Strait seem longer and greener than I remember them in 1971 when I lived in a beach hut (with running water and electricity) on the west shore of Lummi Island and looked from there west to Orcas Island and over these small Island, which seem much more distant than they do here from a higher elevation - on the mountain - and also from a closer prospect (but not by much). The smaller islands are, left to right, Barnes Island, Clark Island (the longer one), Tree Island and The Sisters. Now I remember that I made a colored pencil drawing of what I saw from my window on a windy afternoon and - if I can find it - I'll attach it below. Bellingham is in this subject and its bay - just above Lummi, which runs across the middle of the scene. My home then was far right.
Colored pencil drawing made from my cabin on the west shore of Lummi Island during a stormy afternoon in the winter of 1971. The subject - Mt. Constituion on Orcas Island and the little islands between it and Lummi - may be "figured out."

Our Daily Sykes #425 – Burned Woman

Horace Sykes moved to Seattle in the late 1920s and when to work for Northern Life Insurance, which had then just built in grand new tower at the southeast corner of Third Ave. and Univesity Street.  (Since renamed The Seattle Tower it is felt by some to be the best  building in Seattle.)  I have always assumed that at least some of the Sykes' picturesque landscapes were photographed while he was on trips as an adjuster of claims.  However, this is the only subject in collection that would seem to have been recorded as evidence for a claim.  It is one of two photographs of the burned woman - the easier one to look at.  Sykes has left no name nor date nor description of the circumstance leading to his visit and her calm willingness to be photographed in what must surely still be her pain.

Horace Sykes moved to Seattle from Oregon in the late 1920s as an expert on fire safety.  He had come to work for Northern Life soon after the insurance company had moved into their new highrise at the southeast corner of Third Ave. and University Street and Third Ave.  It is now called the Seattle Tower.  I have always assumed that at least a good percentage of Horace’s picturesque landscapes were photographed while he was on trips examining insurance claims, and yet this and a photograph of an ice plant destroyed by fire are the only instances or “evidence” of the pain and destruction the insurance examiner must have been very familiar with in his subjects.  This is one of two photographs taken of this unnamed woman, most likely sometime in the late 1940s.  It is the easier one to look at.

Seattle Then & Now: The GRANITE FALLS STATION

Above: The stately Granite Falls Railroad Station was built for both the Everett & Monte Cristo Railway Line, and a political payoff.   (Courtesy, Granite Falls Historical Society.) Below: From the prospect of the unnamed historical photographer, the site of the now long gone Granite Falls station has been returned to nature.  (Now photo by Fred Cruger)

(Note: Click the photos to enlarge them.  For many of them click twice to go bigger yet.)

THE GRANITE FALLS RAILROAD STATION

For itinerates and pioneer town photographers there were perhaps two subjects most often used to represent an entire community: “Main Street” and the local railroad station.   Here, as an example, the Granite Falls station is part of a prosperous tableau that includes Northern Pacific engine #366, and the sweetener of a pressing crowd on the station platform.

Fred Cruger, the current vice-president of the Granite Falls Historical Society, dates this real photo postcard 1909.  Fred adds, “there was quite a political battle going on between Snohomish (the County Seat) and Everett (increasingly the County economic center), about where the County seat should actually be.  Granite Falls was told that if they voted for Everett, they’d get a really nice railroad depot.  It may be difficult now to find the actual vote count, but we did get a great railroad depot!”

This political maneuvering dates from the mid-1890s when the original use of this railroad was to carry minerals from the mountains around Monte Cristo to smelters in Everett.  This enterprise was floated by J.D. Rockefeller and eventually so was the railroad by the autumn floods of 1896 and 1897, which damaged or destroyed tunnels and large sections of track.  Ten years more and most of the mining activity was over.  Hauling lumber and later tourists kept the line going until the early 1930s when tearing out the tracks was among the few new jobs open in Snohomish County during the Great Depression.  The Mountain Loop Highway – for which Granite Falls is the “gateway” – was graded in places over the abandoned railroad bed.

Fred Cruger, also an antique car collector, has often helped us in this column with the naming and dating of old motorcars.  Now we wish to make note that he and the Granite Falls Historical Society have created “then and now” cyber tours for both their community and the Mountain Loop tour.  They are, respectively, http://www.myoncell.mobi/13606544362 and http://www.myoncell.mobi/13603553170.

You may wish to visit Granite Falls for the Railroad Days Festival and Parade, this year on Oct. 1, a Saturday.  Not surprisingly the Granite Falls Historical Museum will also be open, and the Mountain Loop Highway too.

BLOG EXTRAS

Have we anything to add Paul?

Yes Jean – we will try.  You will remember how we tried to place now-and-then features for both Granite Falls and Monte Cristo in our book “Washington Then and Now,” and in spite of the book being a big one it was not big enough – we failed.   Here we will harvest what we can of photographs having to do with Granite Falls,  Monte Cristo and a few other sites on or close to the Mountain Look Trail, for which Granite Falls is often called the “gateway.” We’ll start with a few views of the falls themselves.  But first we want to thank Fred Cruger again for his frequent help in many things including Granite Falls history and also identifying/dating antique motorcars.

A early look at Granite Falls when the Stillaguamish River was running low, allowing the rocks to be draped with a party of picnickers perhaps.
My copy of this look at the cascade is captioned, "Granite Falls circa 1915."
The contemporary falls has a public works insertion. (Courtesy, Fred Cruger)
Early Granite Falls

If one takes the Mountain Loop Highway out of Granite Falls to the east, one does it counter-clockwise.  When the Monte Cristo train was still running, a big attraction along the way was the Big Four Inn, which nestled below its namesake mountain.

The Big Four Inn was about 25 miles east of Granite Falls, and from the Inn it was but a few miles more to Monte Cristo.

Bowen's

Granite Falls bar

Monte Cristo ca. 1894. I believe that is Wilman's Peak standing above it. Please correct me if I am wrong. A rock is exposed near the center of the photograph and the curving railroad trestle too. It will show again in the two photos to follow.
The mountain and the rock in 1949. (Courtesy Fred Cruger)
The rock - somewhat hiding in the bushes - and the mountain in 2004.
Looking over and beyong Monte Cristo with Wilman's Peak upper right. Monte Cristo - the mountain - is at the head of this cut. The Monte Cristo Railway tracks leading into the mining - and tourist - town are on the left.
Looking north thru Monte Cristo (and so in the opposite direction from the photos shown above) with some passenger cars on the Monte Cristo line showing on the left.
A 1902 promotion for the Monte Cristo Railroad directed at tourists. (Thanks to Ron Edger for finding this among his ephemera and sharing it too.)
A bridge in Monte Cristo - I believe. If I am mistaken may Fred Cruger correct me.

The two attached views above  both look over Monte Cristo, but from opposite directions.  The top subject looks north from the high ridge south of the mining town.  On the far right is Foggy Peak.  Left of center, at the end of that ridge, is  – I believe – Sheep Mountain, which we may assume has a few mountain sheep on it.  The western slope of Wilman’s Peak is on the far right.  The bottom view (just above) looks south over the milltown.  Foggy Peak just misses being revealed.  It completes the snow-capped ridge on the left – behind the hill.  Wilman’s Peak, or part of it, is on the far right.

 

Darrington

The Mountain Loop Highway circles a ridge of mountains that includes, north to south, Whitehorse Mountain, Mt. Bullon, Three Fingers (north and south) and Liberty Mountain.  The lumber town of Darrington is also known for its share of bluegrass musicians, some of them immigrants from the south.   Darrington is on the opposite northeast side of the ridge from Granite Falls and much closer to it.  Mt.Whitehorse rises from its back door.

Mt. White Horse above Darrington. Granite Falls is on the far side of White Horse - to the southwest.
The United States Mill in Darrington.
Looking northwest thru Darrington to Skadulgwas Peak, Mt. Higgens, and Rounte Mountain. You may figure out which is which is you consult Google Earth. The date has been scribbled at the top.
Not on the loop but rather hidden to the east - about 40 miles due east of Granite Falls - is Glacier Peak. It is one of our five principal volcanoes, and has erupted within the last 300 years.

ARLINGTON is near the northwest “corner” of the Mountain Loop.  Two cedar stumps are rustic landmarks long associated with Arlington.  First some variations on the “stump as home” followed by another group, “stump as roadside attraction.”  The first was sited on what is now part of the Arlington Airport – or very near it – and the other was next to Highway 99 – and Arlington.  I remember it there as recently as 1970.  Perhaps parts of it and the home survives as local keepsakes.  First the home.

Followed by Stump as Roadside Attraction . . .

Finally versions of Arlington Labor and Capital.

Arlington Wobblies

 

 

 

 

 

Our Daily Sykes #421 – Seven Devils

Here Horace Sykes stands on or near the rim of the east moraine that helps hold Wallowa Lake in a scoop that resembles a feeding trough - a collector for some of the runoff off the Wallowa Mountains in Northeast Oregon. First in the middle ground is some farm land nearby the town of Joseph, which is at the north end of the lake, and so to the left and out of the frame. The horizon is broken by the several peaks of The Seven Devils Range. They ascend directly and abruptly east of the Snake's Hells Canyon. On their far side is the Salmon River, which is pushed to the north by The Seven Devils - the river then circles or curves to the west around them until it joins the Snake River. Most of the Peaks in this range may have been named in one sitting and in sympathy with the canyon that they fall into to the west - Hells Canyon. The names teeter on the silly. The slightly taller ones are left-of-center, and named the He Devil and the She Devil. Both are a few feet higher than 9,400 feet. The drop to the Snake River is 8000 feet in Six miles. The Ogre is another high point left of center, and the highest of them right of center is the Devil's Throne. Other names in this range continue the facile theme. There is a Devil's Tooth, a Mt. Belial, the Twin Imps, a Carbonate Hill (at 8,107-feet, sort of high for a hill), a Purgatory Lake and somewhat off to the east a Horse Heaven. Also on the east side of these devils is the enchanting Idaho Highway No. 95. I rode it in 1964 aboard a streamlined post-war bus that resembled the Kalakala Ferry. The highway comes out of southern Idaho and for part of its climb to White Bird Pass, travels beside the Little Salmon River. Like the highways of California, the best time to drive #95 is in April or May when the landscape is green. Horace and his prospect are about 31 miles from the He Devil and about 2000 feet more to - and from - the She Devil. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #418 – A Pleasant Place of Many Parts

Right off, this seems like two landscapes - most of the wild ground cover dappled with flowers below, and above that a band of lush green farm land interrupted by a few trees and a copse of them on the left, and muted lavender hillside beyond it with a gray but tender sky on top. I am started by the green band on the far right with what seems to be, in this soft-focus Sykes, a wall of trees, perhaps a wind break. In sum, this is a delicate landscape without landmark stresses but still satisfying in its parts. It is the sort of subject I would explore with a limited frame in order to look for and enjoy satisfying compositions within. (Click to Enlarge - perhaps twice even.)

Our Daily Sykes #417 – Photo Club Campers

(Click to Enlarge) I have a notion that we included this here earlier. But even if so I now see for the first time both the tripod with a camera at the bumper of the truck, and the mysterious flappers hanging from a line. The different sizes of these suggest that not all the campers are included here. We can see the working man here is sitting on the bench with the children. The plates on the van are Washington's.

Our Daily Sykes #416 – Sykes Only Snipe & Our Burpaplenteous

Here is another of those rare slides that Horace Sykes has labeled. He names it "Jack Snipe." The slide has a soft focus, perhaps because these birds do not often pause for portraits, but are for ever poking into things with their long noses - "more sensitive than an elephant's trunk" - most often into grass and ground covers of all sorts. I remember the snipe well - from Boy Scouts. It was a lingering threat, in that factory of hormone stuffed adolescents, that one would be taken some night on a "snipe hunt." This involved wandering through the woods with a flash light, a gunny sack, and two rocks. The light, it was claimed would get the attention of the snipe. The repeated slapping of the rocks against each other would pull them to the light like a magnet, and the sack was for nabbing them. It was never explained how one could slap rocks while holding a flash light and a sack, and there was no thought at all about what one would do with a Snipe once it was had. It was another adolescent disappointment on the level of losing faith in the Burpaplenteous* - the side chamber attached to the stomach into which food will be pushed with over eating or rushed there with eating too fast, and that thereby makes one burp thru a reflex - when this snipe hunt was explained to me to be a hoax. Still, I was then part of the knowing seniors who could, in turn, inflict our own Snipe Hunt plans - for them - on troop novices. (The reasonable part of all this is that Snipes are everywhere and we must watch out for them. I have kept a sack of some sort and flash light in my trunk since I owned my first car, a Nash Rambler for which I paid $50. But the price of fuel was greater than I expected, for this rambler could not take left turns and so getting to a destination meant making some very big loops and always to the right.) Most likely Horace had plenty of Snipe opportunities and yet this is the only one that wound up in his slide collection. Perhaps it was the speed of their darting about that restrained him. * To my potential - only - considerable embarrassment I learned that there was no Burpaplentious when I offered before the entire General Science class at Lewis and Clark High School in Spokane my answer to the teacher's question - to the class - "Why do we burp?" After giving my brief explanation about the novel organ attached to the stomach, he laughed and answered "Good joke." The class was then free to also erupt with laughter. Fortunately, I caught on instantly. My oldest brother Ted, then in Medical School, had made it up. I, however, did not let on, but rather took my teacher's - a Mr. Mickelson, I believe - compliment as earned and laughed along with them all. This seems to me a good lesson in living or life, which ever lasts the longest. (I am not sure of the proper spelling for "Burpaplenteous.")

 

Our Daily Sykes #415 – James "Cashup" Davis, Steptoe Hotel

Ten times it seems we have followed Horace Sykes to Steptoe Butte, often to its top, 1000 feet above the circling Palouse wheatland. This is another look from where the winding road reaches the top, and on the right includes, again, remnants of James "Cashup" Davis' hotel, which was built in the late 1880s and razed on the night of March 15, 1911 by a fire that was seen from great distances. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #411 – A Satisfying Sunset

Many, perhaps most, recorded sunsets are the cotton candy of pop photography. The sensational side of every sunset is valued like spun sugar. There are a few sunsets, however, that escape this facile reduction, and use their special powers to great effect. The layers of light here, the front light that also illuminates this land and seascape, and that lovely mound on the left, all combine to shake me up. And I thank Horace Sykes for capturing it. (Mouse this to Enlarge - perhaps twice.)

Our Daily Sykes #410 – Geology

With few of the picturesque stimulants that are often found in a Sykes landscape, - for instance no shade tree or flowering plant to one side - this one I'll imagine was recorded for the sake of science, the science of geology, the study of rocks and their movements - slow movements. I imagine - only - that this is near the Great Salt Lake. (click to enlarge - please)

Our Daily Sykes #409 – Collected Cartoons

A small collection of clipped cartoons figure in Horace Sykes collection of Kodachrome slides – at most a dozen.  Here are seven, which I have titled.  A title is a kind of second caption.  Two of these date from 1955, which is a year before Horace’s death.  I am old enough to remember all  these cartoon artists, although I could not name them – never could.  It is worth remembering when they were published.  But I’d not know what insights follow – easily.

Common Sense
Imagination
Insight
Judgement
Psychology
Tolerance
Discipline

 

Our Daily Sykes #408 – Approaching Storm (over the Snake) #2

This is revealing. I figured that this was probably the Snake River, but then it occurred to me that long ago near the beginning of these daily sykes I put up another storm over the snake - with #30 , I think. (Or near it.) What is revealing is how different they are. Some of the same landmarks are shown and they were photographed form the same prospect, but the earlier one shows more sky and this more earth - land that with this coloring and line resembles - somewhat - an animal. Between them the Kodachrome processing, and photoshop/scanning too, joined to "express" the volatility of this emulsion and color generally.

Our Daily Sykes #403 – MESA VERDI with SHOE

Closer yet and yet not the same camp - it seems. Although similar, these details are different than the parts of the Square Tower that can be studied in #400 and #402. Here for the pleasure of your hide-and-seek there is a human foot (with shoe) to search for and easily find. And there are also many footsteps. Perhaps it is no longer permitted to walk around these ancient ruins. And yet there are neither taggings nor graffiti shown here. (Click to Enlarge)

OUR DAILY SYKES #401 – Pot of Gold

A Fairy's or Leprechaun's or Coyote's or Little Person's promise that if set free he or she or it will tie a ribbon around the tree below which a great treasure is buried, is like a rainbow's promise of a pot of gold waiting at the end of it. With the ribbon the party of the second part finds that every tree in the forest has been wrapped with a ribbon. With a party in the canyon lands of Utah and Arizona the quest is all so confused because the color of the soil can make it seem as if gold has been strewn everywhere. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #399 – Lake Mead & the Muddy Mountains

I know this is Lake Mead, and I am proposing that those are the Muddy Mountains on its north side. Lake Mead is, of course, impounded behind Hoover Dam. As with practically every other reservoir it has an ominous contrived shoreline. Here when the Colorado River is running low the lake tugs its pants down revealing, as it were, the tan line at the belly - the body art of the Army Corps' earth work. Slip into this lake and you may not be able to get out. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #398 – Rattlesnake Mountain Over the Columbia River

In the past year and more we have sampled at least two other recordings of this sunset subject - Horace Sykes looking west from the south bank (the Kennewick side) of the Columbia River to Rattlensake Mountain, right of center, and the smaller Red Mountain, left of center. A possible explanation for this abundance is that from Seattle the Tri-Cities would have been a common enough destination for one heading on to the Palouse or Hells Canyon or Utah, all popular destinations for Sykes. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #395 – Return to Sunrise Point

This blog has visited this prospect - nearly - before. There are differences between the earlier record from Sunright Point and this one, but they are clearly the same place. The first showing was as Our Daily Sykes #18, last year on April 30. Both exploit the warm inclinations of the Kodachrome emulsion and make Bryce Canyon's hoodoos appear like transluscent class art. Our Daily Sykes #384 - a little ways below - was also of Bryce, it seems looking the "other direction." (Click to Enlarge)

An Introduction to the EDGE EDITION of the ILLUSTRATED HISTORY of the SEATTLE WATERFRONT

Table Of Contents

Part One

Part Two

Part Three

Part Four

This illustrated history of Seattle’s waterfront is a collection of touchstones – a roughly chronological one.  As the table of contents reveals it is bumpy and reading it is more like walking on a beach of river rocks mixed with polished pebbles than down a graded road.

The writing was done over a four month sprint and modestly supported with tax dollars –  your taxes if you pay them.  The client was your Seattle City Council, and its agent, the then city  councilman Peter Steinbrueck.  Peter felt that members of the council should know more about the waterfront’s past in order to act wisely with issues of its future.   In 2004 it was on the verge of the big changes that are now in 2011 beginning to unfold.

City Hall printed and spiral bound perhaps 100 copies for local libraries, city council members and a few others who were interested.   It has, I have learned, been useful to a few public historians, but I imagine that its concilmanic uses have been minimal.  It is, after all, the normal routine of deliberating politicians to be engulfed with reports and this one is two inches thick.  Perhaps Peter’s peers puttered with the pictures.   (Repeat that seven times fast, for that may be all the time you have.)

Now with the help of Ron Edge’s machinations – scanning and sectioning – you too may easily read this “Edge Edition” from cover to cover.  If you do I guarantee at least a feel for the history of our waterfront, but, again, a bumpy one.  Or you are encouraged to enter this field of historical touchstones at any point and leave so too.   Whichever, this may be satisfying.

Paul Dorpat 7-10-2011

 PDF of complete book

Our Daily Sykes #390 – Bryce in Place

I went ahead and named this "Bryce in its Place" for its seems to me that this is like looking out from the clustered towers of Bryce National Park in central-southern Utah to is suburbs where long rows of terraced flats extend thru many natural blocks. In that line it appears like New York's Central Park with the rows of highrises lining its edges along avenues like Park Avenue. (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #388 – "Ancient Teeth"

This unidentified landscape reminds me of my dentist. About 20 years ago my dentist looked into my mouth and commented. "Ancient teeth. Our teeth get older than we do. Many of us are living far too long for our teeth. They were not designed to work after sixty years, or not so well. Now you may wish to floss, but it will make little difference. You will have troubles with these teeth like I do with mine. It is nearly inevitable. We carry ancient teeth you and I. Crumbling ancient teeth." Such honesty is refreshing in any chair, but at such a cost. My dentist has long since retired to play the best golf courses of the world, and let him grind his teeth. He has the best dentures that money can buy.

Our Daily Sykes #387 – Double Arch near Moab, Utah

This Double Arch - its descriptive name - near Moab, Utah and in the Arches National Park, is one of the best known of the more than 1000 arches that span the skies of the southwest - most of them in southern Utah.  The double arch is conveniently a mere half mile from its own parking lot, and according to Google's description "there are no guardrails or fences to prevent visitors form exploring direclty beneth and through the arches. The area was used as a backdrop for the opening scene of Indian Jones.

This Double Arch – its descriptive name – is one of the more popular of the 1000-plus arches that span southwest skies – most of them in southern Utah.  It is conveniently close to its own Double Arch parking area – a half mile hike round trip.   Google Earth notes, “There are no guardrails or fences to prevent visitors from exploring directly beneath and through the arches.  The area was used as a backdrop for the opening scene of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.”  On its visit to Utah ca. 1950 the vacationing Dorpats made it to Bryce and Zion but not the Arches.  This failure continued with Indiana Jones.  I saw none of the sequels, and so missed the Hollywood premier of Syke’s Double Arch.

Our Daily Sykes #384 – North Rim

I remember this from my only visit to Grand Canyon.  It was ca. 1950 with my parents and next oldest brother David.  This is the North Rim, which is easily determined with a Google Earth visit to the North Rim dead end on Highway 67.  Actually, the end of the road is quite alive with a big lodge – which I do not remember – and many other structures.  The elevation is about 8100 feet, one thousand feet – or so – above the south rim at Grand Canyon Village, which as the condor flies is about ten miles to the left.    Driving between the two rims is a long trip.  Most visitors choose the lower south rim only.  My dad wanted to see them both.   The “head” showing here is about one-and-one-half miles distant and about 100 feet lower than the lodge and, we presume, Horace Sykes prospect.  (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes # 383 – What Watershed

In the grand watershed that feeds the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River there is a Little Colorado River that reaches the big canyon thru a canyon of its own with sheer sides and a narrow width that one might imagine flying over in an aerodynamic motorcycle.  There are signs warning responsible adults to keep impetuous children and pets away as one approaches this gash in the Arizona desert, for without the signs there is often no sense that there is a canyon until you reach the very edge of it.  Persons suffering from Vertigo will want to stay in some Flagstaff Motel.   The Little Colorado River comes out of that part of New Mexico that does not resemble Mars, which is the western part at its belt-line.  There are forests, lakes and mountains and this Little Colorado comes to life in them and flows northwest thru serpentine wiggles until it approaches the Arizona border, where it starts to move more earnestly in the direction of the Grand Canyon.  I found the Little Colorado while using Google Earth to look down from space upon artist James Turrell’s Roden Crater, which over decades he had been arranging with tunnels and other reclamations into a natural light show.  Jean, who is one of the rare ones who have visited it on the ground, gave me the directions.  It was during my own inspection from space that I noticed that Roden Crater was but a few stones throws from the Little Colorado, and what is more only three miles due west from its Grand Falls.  Here I request that the reader open Google Earth and find the place.  It is 30 miles northeast of Flagstaff New Mexico.  The falls are represented-pictured with several citizen snapshots.   And it is easy to find Roden Crater as well although it is not named it is the only crater in a small field of them that shows a path leading into it and a man-made earth-work in it as well.   It a downright surreal with a 2001 uncanny caste.  The Grand Falls of the Little Colorado River are grand, or can be when the river is swelling, which in this arid landscape is not often.  The occasional flash flood makes them spectacular.  The falls are roughly 150 feet high and 500  feet wide, and there is one big step included that is about 70 feet wide.  By comparison Niagara Falls is about 170 feet high and it falls without a step.  Through its sections Niagara  is about 3000 feet wide.  It is also much wetter and whiter.   The Arizona landscape thereabouts often has a red caste to it, and when these Grand Falls on the Little Colorado get splashing the coloring resembles a shake made from a mix of Pepto-bismol and coffee, a tint familiar to persons with caffeine addictions who are also plagued with bad digestion.   I only recently came upon the attached waterfall in the collection of Sykes Kodachrome slides.   In my urge to find locations for his subjects I hoped that this might be a detail from the Grand Falls of the Little Colorado River.  Now I confess after comparing this look at this waterfall with those on Google Earth of the Grand Falls, well, I think that it is not.  Once again we are left clueless by a Sykes’ subject, although not hopelessly so.  (Click to Enlarge)

Our Daily Sykes #379 – Moses Trees

Some of Syke’s slide, like this one, came to a surreal condition by reason of some chemistry along the way.  The blue is too blue, and the focus soft.  What to say about the rusting landscape?  But note the monolith centered on the far horizon.  Did Horace mean to stage it all around that isolate effect?  When grabbed in detail, like below, some of these rougher slides appear like gouache canvases. (Click to Enlarge)